2017 Limited issues after battery and alternator replacement

[MeanOraGean]

2017 ford explorer limited 3.5L V6
Just yesterday I had both my battery and alternator replaced and the battery light flashes charging system service. When I drive the battery light goes off and on, and the car never loses power. However I do notice my interior lights flicker a bit and when my car is on and stopped or in park it idles. I'm not sure what to do from here.

 

[peterk9]

Welcome to the Forum.
Just curious as to what initially prompted the battery and alternator change?
I'd check to make sure that the cable connections on the battery terminals are tight as well as the connections on the alternator.
Some model years require that the Battery Management System (BMS) be reset to erase the memory of the old battery and some say to let the vehicle sit undisturbed for 8 hours after a new battery install to allow the BMS to learn the new state of charge. The manual for the 2017 mentions neither of those procedures.
Perhaps it might be a good idea to take it back to where the service was performed and have them check it out.
Was the work done by a Ford dealership? There have been several posts saying that you should use a genuine Ford alternator.

Peter

 

[J_C]

Ditto on what Peter wrote, but also you may be able to use a code scanner (one capable of Ford-specific codes) to get a DTC code to narrow down what is wrong... unless of course if the code you pull, just means low voltage.

Some auto parts stores can test the alternator, as well as the battery. Some people get bad remanufactured alternators, more often than new ones. They are a lottery.

At least I assume auto parts stores can test these newer design alternators, but one thing you can do yourself if you have a multimeter is measure the system voltage. These use a smart(er) charging system that may vary between ~12.6V battery voltage and up near 14V depending on driving/load/deceleration conditions optimal for pulling some engine HP to charge the battery, and do not keep the electrical system at near 14.4V constantly like older generation vehicles did, but at the same time, should not let the battery drop much below 12.6V. Low battery voltage is a trigger for the system (BMS) to increase the charging duty cycle.

I'd also do the basics like check for good battery cable ground. Definitely take it back to the shop if you paid someone to replace these items instead of DIY. If you bought the alternator from an auto parts store that can't test it, then I'd insist on exchanging it for another or getting a refund and buying another elsewhere, IF nothing we've written so far helps to find the fault.

 

[MeanOraGean]

Welcome to the Forum.
Just curious as to what initially prompted the battery and alternator change?
I'd check to make sure that the cable connections on the battery terminals are tight as well as the connections on the alternator.
Some model years require that the Battery Management System (BMS) be reset to erase the memory of the old battery and some say to let the vehicle sit undisturbed for 8 hours after a new battery install to allow the BMS to learn the new state of charge. The manual for the 2017 mentions neither of those procedures.
Perhaps it might be a good idea to take it back to where the service was performed and have them check it out.
Was the work done by a Ford dealership? There have been several posts saying that you should use a genuine Ford alternator.

Peter

I had the battery and alternator replaced because that's what I was told I needed to do. The work was done by my brother who is not a mechanic but very familiar with vehicle repairs.
Yesterday I went and had both my battery and alternator tested and both tested great. However my car did throw out a few codes. P0068A, P0702-00, U3003-16. Iam extremely greatful for the help.

 

[MeanOraGean]

Ditto on what Peter wrote, but also you may be able to use a code scanner (one capable of Ford-specific codes) to get a DTC code to narrow down what is wrong... unless of course if the code you pull, just means low voltage.

Some auto parts stores can test the alternator, as well as the battery. Some people get bad remanufactured alternators, more often than new ones. They are a lottery.

At least I assume auto parts stores can test these newer design alternators, but one thing you can do yourself if you have a multimeter is measure the system voltage. These use a smart(er) charging system that may vary between ~12.6V battery voltage and up near 14V depending on driving/load/deceleration conditions optimal for pulling some engine HP to charge the battery, and do not keep the electrical system at near 14.4V constantly like older generation vehicles did, but at the same time, should not let the battery drop much below 12.6V. Low battery voltage is a trigger for the system (BMS) to increase the charging duty cycle.

I'd also do the basics like check for good battery cable ground. Definitely take it back to the shop if you paid someone to replace these items instead of DIY. If you bought the alternator from an auto parts store that can't test it, then I'd insist on exchanging it for another or getting a refund and buying another elsewhere, IF nothing we've written so far helps to find the fault.

Yesterday I went and had both my battery and alternator tested and both tested great. However my car did throw out a few codes. P0068A, P0702-00, U3003-16. Iam extremely greatful for the help. Thank you.

 

[peterk9]

Did he use a Ford alternator or an aftermarket one?
P0068A - p0068a ford - Google Search
P0702 - Transmission Control System Electrical. p0702-00 ford - Google Search
U3003-16 -
Battery power supply. DETECTION CONDITION. • U3003:16. ― Voltage lower than the specified value is detected during battery voltage monitoring in the EPS control module.
Not being a mechanic, I have to rely on the Internet for info. I don't know what your original symptoms were but I don't think replacing both items at the same time is a common practice. I'm sure someone more knowledgeable can comment on that.

Peter

 

[J_C]

It's not uncommon to replace a battery due to alternator failure, if it resulted in the battery being undercharged repetitively, or too deeply discharged plus some age on it so the remaining capacity is too low. You'd test the battery and go from there.

P0068A is "probably" just caused by the underlying electrical problem, not suggesting a fault by itself.
P0702 could be the same situation, malfunction due to insufficient voltage, or I suppose a fault in it could cause a parasitic drain? IDK.
U3003-16 is just system voltage low which we could already presume.

IIRC, the BMS system changed between my '14, which i have the workshop manual linked to in my sig, and your '17. Some of the troubleshooting may be the same. I've attached a PDF of that, system voltage low section starts on page 8.

 

[Michael Blackburn]

I have read in several locations that you need to install a FORD alternator. Aftermarket alternators will throw up a code. Something with the sensor wire output being different in the Ford part.

 

[peterk9]

I have read in several locations that you need to install a FORD alternator. Aftermarket alternators will throw up a code. Something with the sensor wire output being different in the Ford part.

Michael, I have read and mentioned that as well in other posts. Also, for fault-finding purposes, I think changing 1 item at a time would be better.

Peter