How to: 4.0 OHV Refresh

[97Sandbox]

Small update: I was able to remove the cam sprocket bolt by using a two jaw puller to hold the ratchet and prevent the socket from camming out of the bolt head. I just tightened the puller finger tight against the ratchet and stuck a socket between the puller and ratchet to act as a washer and allow the ratchet to turn. The bolt broke free easily with the puller holding everything in place.

Searching online I could not find the part number for a replacement bolt. Out of curiosity I went to my local Ford dealer and had them pull up the timing assembly based on my truck's VIN. They clarified the bolt part number is E7RY-6279-A and they found 14 in stock at their warehouse. I ordered one for $11.95 (it's supposed to be hear mid-next week). After looking up the part online, that's about as much as I'd pay for the bolt including shipping, so I'm happy I went ahead and ordered it. Hopefully I'll be able to start reassembly soon!

 

[EB4X]

Good job MacGuyver! I see I have competition in makeshift approaches.

MacGuyer: " Drawing on a vast practical knowledge of science, Macgyver is able to make use of any mundane materials around him to create unorthodox solutions to any problem he faces. The enemies of world peace and justice continually learn that underestimating this man is a fatal mistake for their plans."

 

[97Sandbox]

Hi everyone, I have a fuel injector question:
I bought a set of Ford F4SF-A1B / Bosch 0 280 155 700 injectors that were listed as "upgrade" injectors for my Explorer. I've come to find these injectors are actually for a 4.6L V8 and flow 18.25 lb/hr rather than the 14.1 lb/hr for the original Ford F87E-H1A / Bosch 0 280 155 962 injectors for a 4.0L. Can I actually run the "upgraded" injectors, or will they make the engine run rich all the time? A buddy of mine told me they probably won't work well without at least some ECU tuning to correct for the higher flow capacity. Any clarification is appreciated!

 

[410Fortune]

Not going to work
You need to stick with injectors that match your computer and mass air flow sensor calibrations otherwise the computer will not be able to deliver the correct amount of fuel

I’m pretty sure a 97 ohv runs 16# injectors

 

[97Sandbox]

Not going to work
You need to stick with injectors that match your computer and mass air flow sensor calibrations otherwise the computer will not be able to deliver the correct amount of fuel

I’m pretty sure a 97 ohv runs 16# injectors

Thanks for confirming my suspicion.

Luckily the seller offered to exchange the 18.25 lb/hr injectors I purchased for the same kind as I had on the truck -- they were 14.1 lb/hr injectors on my '00 OHV. Hopefully those ones were right...

 

[97Sandbox]

Finally making some progress on the Sport this weekend. I'm trying to put the new camshaft synchronizer in and it's not quite seating all the way down. I tried it several times then checked using my old one to make sure I wasn't doing something wrong -- sure enough the old one went right in. I read on here this issue happens when the oil pump shaft is out of position, but in my case, it looks like the splines inside my new camshaft synchronizer are all one position off compared to the old one (ribs where grooves should be).

Is there any way to make this work or do I need to order another camshaft synchronizer?

 

[fast_dave]

Pull the shaft from the old one and stick it in the body of the new one.

It's the aluminum bodies that take the brunt of the wear as opposed to the steel shafts.

HTH -

 

[97Sandbox]

Pull the shaft from the old one and stick it in the body of the new one.

I like your thinking!

Do I just drive the pin in the gear out to take it apart?

 

[fast_dave]

Affirmative...

 

[97Sandbox]

Got the old shaft and gear swapped into the new synchronizer body, went to install and it's still not dropping down as far as the old one. It's dropping down further though, and I'm suspicious the only thing keeping it partially out is the fresh O-ring that hasn't been compressed like the old one. If I go ahead and install the hold-down piece and torque the bolt in, will that pressure push the synchronizer the last bit of the way down, or am I asking for trouble?

 

[Pete Deering]

Got the old shaft and gear swapped into the new synchronizer body, went to install and it's still not dropping down as far as the old one. It's dropping down further though, and I'm suspicious the only thing keeping it partially out is the fresh O-ring that hasn't been compressed like the old one. If I go ahead and install the hold-down piece and torque the bolt in, will that pressure push the synchronizer the last bit of the way down, or am I asking for trouble?

Remove the new o-ring, install it and see if if drop in all the way. If it does, than you know if its the o-ring. Pull it and put the o-ring back. I know the outing is required to seal the shaft. You should not have to force anything.

 

[97Sandbox]

Tried it without the O-ring and it seated all the way. Figured that must mean it's just a snug fit, so I put the O-ring back on and tightened it down. The synchronizer popped in as I tightened the bolt.

Only issue is I looked at the final resting position of the synchronizer and it was noticeably more angled than the original one.
Old:

New:

Not to mention none of this agrees with what's in the service manual:

I popped the synchronizer back out and tried guiding it in one tooth over in the CW direction and then one tooth over in the CCW direction, but neither yielded any better of an angle. Am I totally missing something here?

 

[Pete Deering]

Tried it without the O-ring and it seated all the way. Figured that must mean it's just a snug fit, so I put the O-ring back on and tightened it down. The synchronizer popped in as I tightened the bolt.

Only issue is I looked at the final resting position of the synchronizer and it was noticeably more angled than the original one.
Old:
View attachment 428278

New:
View attachment 428279

Not to mention none of this agrees with what's in the service manual:
View attachment 428280

I popped the synchronizer back out and tried guiding it in one tooth over in the CW direction and then one tooth over in the CCW direction, but neither yielded any better of an angle. Am I totally missing something here?

The only concern with the orientation is the connection, the wiring harness connector is only so long. When I drop my in. I started the index at 10 o'clock and it seated at 2 o'clock position. As long as the timing mark set right, you will be ok. Look at my writeup on the X engine.

 

[97Sandbox]

The only concern with the orientation is the connection, the wiring harness connector is only so long. When I drop my in. I started the index at 10 o'clock and it seated at 2 o'clock position. As long as the timing mark set right, you will be ok. Look at my writeup on the X engine.

Thanks, I read your post before I started this -- lots of good info. I cannot imagine doing this without the lower intake manifold removed!

So you're saying the exact angle of the synchronizer body does not matter as long as the wires can be connected? I guess that makes sense because if cylinder 1 is at TDC (verified from harmonic balancer) and the synchronizer is aligned (via alignment tool), then everything is starting in it's "home" position. when the synchro is tightened down all the way.

 

[410Fortune]

Did you bring cylinder 1 to tdc on compression stroke before dropping in the synchro?

 

[97Sandbox]

Did you bring cylinder 1 to tdc on compression stroke before dropping in the synchro?

Yessir, the "finger" sticking off the crank position sensor is right on the little 0 etched/stamped into the balancer.

 

[Pete Deering]

Thanks, I read your post before I started this -- lots of good info. I cannot imagine doing this without the lower intake manifold removed!

So you're saying the exact angle of the synchronizer body does not matter as long as the wires can be connected? I guess that makes sense because if cylinder 1 is at TDC (verified from harmonic balancer) and the synchronizer is aligned (via alignment tool), then everything is starting in it's "home" position. when the synchro is tightened down all the way.

Yes, also the synchronizer is index. The harness connector and the vane in the window( in my case). You are using the installation tool. I think it a little to late now, but I greased The O-Ring and pre oil the synchronizer before installation. It was also a wet area for me. All rusty in my case.

 

[410Fortune]

And you used the alignment tool and you can get the wiring connector on you should be good to go, you have the synchro on the correct cam tooth and the flag is aligned w the tool . The angle (the 60’degreesnthey want to see) would change slightly as you rotate the engine towards it away from tdc this is why some people have the sensor pointing slightly more one way then the other.

 

[97Sandbox]

Thanks guys. I'll plan on torqueing it back down the way it wanted to sit and then move on to the lower intake reinstallation.

On that note, does anyone know the appropriate torque spec for the hold-down bolt? I was thinking ~15 ft-lb because that was the spec for the timing cover bolts which have about the same diameter and also thread into the block, but I don't want to overcompress the O-ring.

 

[Pete Deering]

Thanks guys. I'll plan on torqueing it back down the way it wanted to sit and then move on to the lower intake reinstallation.

On that note, does anyone know the appropriate torque spec for the hold-down bolt? I was thinking ~15 ft-lb because that was the spec for the timing cover bolts which have about the same diameter and also thread into the block, but I don't want to overcompress the O-ring.

The O-ring does not get compressed. It seals the perimeter wall and the shaft.