5.0 2to4wd 4406 and tons

[410Fortune]

Well done!!! Rockauto carpet kits are fun to install aren’t they! I did a ranger in a black kit with extra padding it took two days to get it just right, I use factory kit as a template and cut on the large side of the line
Factory rubber floor from sport trac is what I have in my bronco we have used them in 4 door explorers they fit same as factory carpet

 

[Scotts96sploder]

Paint it black, put it back.
Shift boot box is finished and installed. Took the rig for a test drive around the block a bunch of laps to see if the box gets hot. Stayed cool to the touch for the 20 or so minutes I ran it at full temp in 90 some odd degree weather. Success!
Went to park the thing, had to move a trailer, and the thing died sitting at idle. Tried to fire it up and hear no fuel pump. Check the fuse and swapped the relay, no dice. Also not throwing any codes other than the airbag. Pushed it back into the yard.
What’s an easy way to check for power to the fuel pump other than dropping it?

 

[410Fortune]

Well done!

 

[Scotts96sploder]

It’s possible I may have nicked that crash sensor thing, which I did check but just the button. I thought those were mechanical though? Do they kill the fuel pump or just release pressure?

 

[Scotts96sploder]

Found the plug, checked voltage while having someone crank, got 12s, 6s and 5s, so I assume that’s good power. No clue which wires go to the actual pump so I was just guessing at test points. If someone could tell me which ones actually power the pump so I can confirm before buying a pump/sender that would be awesome.

 

[Scotts96sploder]

Hey! Back to work on this thing. Nothing too fancy, still collecting parts for axle swapping, but I did get this auxiliary electronics compartment fabricobbled. I think I want to add an aux fuse panel in there also.

 

[410Fortune]

Did you find the fuel
Pump
Power wire info?

 

[Scotts96sploder]

@410Fortune sure did, I made a whole other thread about it. Fixed, runs great!

 

[Scotts96sploder]

So I decided that if I keep saying I’ll get around to it one day, I’ll be dead by the time that day comes, so I just started doing this.

Rebuilt the 10.5 and got an axle swap kit. Decided to go with the explorer leafs flipped backwards, and exchanged the overload spring for a helper spring. With the axle in its furthest forward position on the pirches the expedition shaft does bolt up but it’s just about falling out. So I need to either find an F150 shaft that’s about 3-1/2 to 4” longer or have this one lengthened. Anyone know what might be compatible?

I’m going to get this rear end completely welded in and plum the brakes as well as hook up the parking brake. I decided to just go all the way to 40s so I’ll be ordering those before I rip the front end out. During that time I’ll be rebuilding the D50 which will be going in on the f150 leafs also swapping the overload for helpers.

Haven’t re-geared the axles yet, going around 5.38 when I do.

 

[DintDobbs]

5.38, with 40's? Isn't that a bit tall?

Unless you intend to keep it daily-driveable or highway-worthy, I'd recommend going closer to 6... but I like tractor torque. I'm running 5.13's with 33's.

And my guy, that rig of yours is a beaut!

 

[Scotts96sploder]

Yes, trying to be able to go at least 65 comfortably. We don’t really have rocks in FL, just sand and mud, and I’ll have to drive where I want to go. Also I think that’s about as low as I can go with a D50, but I’ll double check.

5.38, with 40's? Isn't that a bit tall?

Unless you intend to keep it daily-driveable or highway-worthy, I'd recommend going closer to 6... but I like tractor torque. I'm running 5.13's with 33's.

And my guy, that rig of yours is a beaut!

 

[Scotts96sploder]

Update:
Decided to see what would happen if if put the springs in the stock direction and pushed the RuffStuff brackets all the way back. It pushed the axle about an inch or so further forward than I really wanted but I think it will work. Might require some clearance in the front of the wheel well and rear door once it’s on 40s. But what it does do is allow the expedition drive shaft to bolt up and it appears to be ALMOST in the stock position based off the wear mark. I went ahead and got the pinion angle set and burned in the brackets, the U-bolts should be here in a matter of hours.
Next up:
Looks like I can just add tabs to the factory shock tower thing and run double eyelet style shock. Might do that to save fab work and keep the ball rolling. I need to measure for socks, the stock length will be a bit short.
It also looks like I can install the factory antiwrap bars in backwards on top of the leaf plate which will also contact the factory bump stop. Maybe not, wouldn’t mind if I could absolutely stuff the 40s considering where the driveshaft is. I’ll have to add limit straps to keep that from bottoming out on droop.
Need to source 00 F250 E-brake cables (the ones that go both ways) and rear brake line and figure out how to adapt all that as well as plumb hard lines.

 

[Scotts96sploder]

Two updates in one day? Why not?

U Bolts came in, so I figured I would quickly flex it out as much as I could. Looks like I’m gonna need larger bump stops because the spring goes inverted, but the driveshaft barely moves. I’m hoping to get similar results for droop but I doubt it. At least I have a lot of travel to work with in that department!
35s tucking up into the stock wheel well other than the very back edge which on mine is already cut off. That’s really nice, looks like I won’t have to relocate the filler when I clearance for 40s.
I need to find a way to flex it out safely so I can crawl underneath and measure for shocks and limit straps. Thinking engine hoist with a lifting strap some kinda way.

 

[410Fortune]

Have a trailer w ramps? Can use as a make shift rti ramp

 

[Scotts96sploder]

The rear end has brakes!
Bit of a struggle to source and adapt all these parts but I got it done, bled, and tested by hand. I used M8 coupling nuts that I welded to the leaf brackets to emulate the factory soft line hold downs, I still need to come up with something for the hard lines.
Decided to go with a different style shock mount so I’m waiting on those to arrive. I’m going to run the stock length shocks for testing untill I get a good measurement and build a different cross member to hold the double eye style shock.
Tomorrow I’m going to double check torque on all the bolts and move it back and forth a few times with an empty dif. I don’t think it will hurt anything too much and those gears are getting replaced anyway.
Parts ordered for the front axle swap, and I just started cutting brackets off it today. Needs a full tear down. Once I know the rear works, and probably get the parking break working also, I’ll start the front end disassembly. Going to unbolt as much as possible, avoiding that point of no return that will inevitably come at some point and I have to cut all the brackets off the frame and probably modify the crossmember under the engine.
If anyone has any good insight as to setting up the propper angle with the leafs so I get the correct caster without shims, I’m all ears. Going shackles forward.

Oh and I made a 17ton shackle hitch because I got the shackle for free, so why not? lol

 

[Scotts96sploder]

Can anyone tell me about the abs sensor wiring that went to the 8.8, is that just for abs? I’m just going to zip tie it out of the way but I would like to cut it out. They are just sense wires right, as in no power because the signal is generated by the tone ring sensor? So if I were to cut them back and cap them off it will effect nothing other than the abs that has never worked?
The plan is to replace the abs module with a metering block when I get to the point of plumbing brakes to the front.

 

[410Fortune]

The 4406 Is a slip yoke rear output and the driveshaft is two joints (no cardan joint) so you want the u joint angles at the tailhousing and the pinion angle to
Match. Usually right around 7 degrees from horizontal. Set the pinion angle so they match at ride height and you are good to go

The rear axle abs sensor was also used to generate the speed sensor signal for the speedometer. You can either use the vss in the tail of the 4406 (if yours has one) or you can use a Dakota digital speedo interface like I said on page one

Good progress! You won’t hurt a rear axle by moving the truck around a little with the gears dry

 

[Scotts96sploder]

The 4406 Is a slip yoke rear output and the driveshaft is two joints (no cardan joint) so you want the u joint angles at the tailhousing and the pinion angle to
Match. Usually right around 7 degrees from horizontal. Set the pinion angle so they match at ride height and you are good to go

The rear axle abs sensor was also used to generate the speed sensor signal for the speedometer. You can either use the vss in the tail of the 4406 (if yours has one) or you can use a Dakota digital speedo interface like I said on page one

Good progress! You won’t hurt a rear axle by moving the truck around a little with the gears dry

I’ve already got the speedo running off the Dakota box, and the pinion angle is already set and welded in the rear. So I can just disappear those wires right? This vehicle got the vss from the original 2wd trans.
I was wondering about setting caster angle when I swap the front, as it’s more important than pinion angle. I would like to get on the highway.

 

[410Fortune]

Yes vss wires can go away they go directly to the abs pump