5.0 Camshaft Synchronizers

[Shapechanger]

I have a 1999 Ex with a 5.0 in it, and i am using the engine, wiring and fuel system for a project. Before I begin tearing the truck apart, I want to get it running at its best. Currently it is throwing a P0340 code. I have done some research and it points to the camshaft synchronizer, and possibly the alternator. I replaced the alternator and am getting 14.5-14.6 at the battery, so i dont believe that is the problem. So my question is, what exactly goes wrong in the synchronizer? The seem to be pretty simple items, just not sure what goes wrong with them? Also, other than the Motorcraft one, which is another brand that is recommended? I am on a tight budget for this project and a $100+ item may push the project back. I had bought a remanned Cardone one, but it seems really chincy, and the gear is off by a couple 1/16th of an inch, plus one of the electrical pins was bent straight up.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

the aftermarket ones can or will squeak over a short period of time. that will cause a cel (and annoying as hell).
also the sensor in the cap can break off falling into the body causing this to happen

dont skimp on the sensors and body. get the motorcraft one or you might be replacing them every year or 2

 

[Mbrooks420]

I agree on the motorcraft recommendation. I replaced several of the cheap ones, before shelling out the extra money to get the factory part. Never had any more trouble after that.

 

[CDW6212R]

Ditto, buy the Ford unit. There have been some reports of the roll pin shearing off in the aftermarket brand cam synchronizers.

I've bought the Ford versions for at or just under $100 total, hunt around and you should be able to find them for about $100. eBay was a good source, Rock Auto might be also, I'd start there.

 

[imp]

Ditto, buy the Ford unit. There have been some reports of the roll pin shearing off in the aftermarket brand cam synchronizers.

I've bought the Ford versions for at or just under $100 total, hunt around and you should be able to find them for about $100. eBay was a good source, Rock Auto might be also, I'd start there.

I once put a Melling high-volume oil pump in a 289. It put out decent oil pressure all the time. For a couple of months, anyway, then the engine quit suddenly in the middle of the Navajo Reservation in AZ. No spark. OK, on a hunch, I lifted off the distributor cap, cranked a turn, and the rotor was standing still! Yanked the distributor out, factory installed roll-pin had sheared. Luckily, I had lots of tools with me, as I was moving to CO. And, a set of number drill bits! Drove out the broken roll-pin, chose a suitable drill bit, cut off the soft end, drove it into the gear and shaft, peened over the ends, back running again! I will never trust a roll-pin to drive anything again!
imp

 

[koda2000]

The cam synchronizer is not a part to try to save money on. Go with the Motorcraft for this part or you'll likely regret it.

 

[97-5.0]

Get the Ford if your flag is bent, or just the sensor on top if that's what's broken

I got the cheap synco and the gear wore in a way that the synco wouldn't come out,
Had to remove front cover and loosen cam and sledge it up and out, broke 2 lifters, 20l of diesel and 20l of oil to flush out all the metal bits.

Rockauto has the best price for fomoco parts!!!!

 

[Turdle]

Ditto. What seems like a 100.00 setback is actually a good 100 dollars spent on avoiding a 500.00 setback. Loose oil pump drive and you are sitting waiting for a tow.

 

[CDW6212R]

Replace the synchronizer also if the mileage is getting high. Just like any distributor, the bushings can seize when they see 150k-200k. It begins as a squeal, but may eventually lock up and break parts. Doing parts like these at a reasonable high mileage, is wise, like the timing chain etc. I did mine last Winter, after hearing it squeal for about a month. It's great to know I shouldn't have to worry about that part for many years.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

also if you can, its a good idea if you have the motor out and apart is to get a arp oil pump drive shaft. the factory ones can twist or snap. they are not pron to it, but they are cheap.

https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/arp-154-7904/overview/make/ford

 

[Shapechanger]

Thanks guys, looks like I will be returning the Cardone one and ordering a Motorcraft one. Is there any reason to buy a new sensor for the top of it? Do they go bad often? I have two of them, one that is one there and another i snagged at the junkyard. Also, other than the synchronizer and alternator, what else could cause the P0340 code.

Thanks

 

[Shapechanger]

Got the motorcraft one in, picked up the cheapest one from autozone to get the tool. Put the engine to TDC on the compression stroke using the "0" on the harmonic balancer to set it. With the timing pointed pointing at "0", the tool would not fit on the old synchronizer. I had to rotate the crank a bit more to get the tool on. Is this normal, could my balancer have slipped? The first pic in the synchronizer tool on with the crank past the "0" TDC mark. The second pic is where the crank pulley ended up to get the tool on. The black line on the crank pulley is the "0" mark.

 

[Mbrooks420]

If I understand it correctly you line it up with the timing mark at TDC, and then loosen the hold down on the sync drive and rotate the body until the tool fits.

 

[CDW6212R]

Yeah, set the TDC and then rotate the cam synch to where the tool lines up right, and tighten it there.

That slight difference you have there is minor, if it had been a lot, then I'd worry about the balancer. The mark is a great idea, so in the future you can double check it and verify nothing changes. If it runs rough at some point, then you should think of this and check the alignment again, and the TDC mark you have now.

When you get the new one in, be sure the cam synchronizer goes all the way down to the block, that's very important that it seats fully. That can be the tricky part.

 

[Shapechanger]

Got the synchronizer in and it started right up, drove it around the block a couple times and no check engine light. When i put it in, it was slighty off from where i marked it, but it seems to run ok. Thanks for all the info guys,

Side note. I bought a new Duralast Gold Synchronizer to use the tool, which i plan to return. It appears to be of good quality, with what looks like nice beefy roll pins, i will post a pic compared to the old Ford one from my truck.

 

[AndreaBR]

Hi,
Does the camshaft synchronizer work with engine oil or without any oil?
We removed an axle today and there was no trace of oil.
1999 Ford Explorer 5.0 V8

 

[imp]

Hi,
Does the synchronizer shaft work with engine oil or without any oil?
We removed an axle today and there was no trace of oil.
1999 Ford Explorer 5.0 V8

I think there is misinformation here. The Camshaft Synchronizers are internal to the ENGINE, telling the computer when it may inject fuel. SENSORS mounted adjacent to axles are for purpose of detecting wheel speed differences.

 

[AndreaBR]

I think there is misinformation here. The Camshaft Synchronizers are internal to the ENGINE, telling the computer when it may inject fuel. SENSORS mounted adjacent to axles are for purpose of detecting wheel speed differences.

Yes, you are right I messed up the message, but I have already corrected it. I'm referring to Camshaft Synchronizer myself.
This piece here has several names.
The underside of the camshaft synchronizer (which is inside the engine) was completely dry and free of oil. This is normal?

 

[Mbrooks420]

Yes. That is the camshaft synchronizer drive. It’s not supposed to be submerged, and the bushing often dries out. That’s why they squeak.

 

[CDW6212R]

If the cam synchronizer is rather old or high mileage, if you have the sensor removed at any point, that's a good time to drip several drops of oil in there. That simple step can help the bushings live a good while longer. People have done that with it squeaking, and had it quiet for a year after that.