5.0 performance without tuning

How much can be done to a 5.0L explorer without requiring tuning?

Doing the swap on my '99 Ranger. Longblock I'm going to use initially is from a '98 Explorer, everything else is from a '00 Explorer. The '00 Explorer engine will be saved and built for later installation, and truck will be tuned then. Don't really want to be stuck with only what's left of the stock 215 HP until then.

I recall reading several years ago when I got the '98 engine, that using 1.7 rockers with the Explorer cam put it about on par with a stock Mustang cam. The engine was purchased for a different project that never happened, but the plan was always to use Explorer EFI and really build the engine later. With that in mind I purchased and installed a set of cheap 1.7 roller rockers, which also meant different valve covers and an intake spacer. I kind of want to drop the intake spacer and go back to explorer valve covers for appearance, and I'm a little torn on running cheap rockers vs picking up some used 1.6 rockers and a better used cam.

I do know that I don;t want to invest in tuning on this engine, so what ever gets done will have to run acceptably on stock ECM.

FWIW the '98 5.0 is stock except for the 1.7 rockers, upgraded valve springs, valve covers, and intake spacer. I've also got a set of TM style headers for it. Also this is going to be an AWD street truck style build, not big heavy tire off-road rig.

 

[410Fortune]

Welcome to ranger v8’s!

The stock stamped rockers are good
Only need rollers if you want to make power over like 4000 rpm
Upgraded springs and valve stem seals a very good idea. The stock valve springs as weak sauce

Nothing you do will make any power until you remove the choke point, ie, the stock manifolds

Intake spacer is good it keeps the upper plenum heat soak down

The roller rockers will not hurt anything, but many of us have found them to be problematic and noisy. The pedestal mount makes keeping roller rockers centered a pita.’converting to stud mount is the way to go. The stock ratio is 1.6 feet f you go to 1.7 you better measure for pushrods

I love a mild cam in these only after the headers or do them together otherwise there is no point

Pics!!

 

[vroomzoomboom]

depending on what rocker you use, if you use a full roller rocker, you will also need guide plates as well, which means you will have to go to screw in studs. another thing you can do if you are wanting to do it, is gasket match the heads to the lower intake, and the lower to the upper, and take any cast flash off of them. if you are rebuilding the motor, have it balanced. that will free up power because it wont be fighting itself as it spins. thats some of the things i can think of off the top of my head without really costing a ton of money.

 

[JoshT]

Just to clarify I have two engines. One is from a 1998 Explorer and the other is from the 2000 model donor I picked up a few weeks ago.

Between the two the '98 seems to have been better cared for and in better condition, so it's the one I'm going to install with the swap. After swapping over the relevant bits from the 2000 of course. The 2000 engine is going to be put into storage to be built in the next year or two.

The '98 engine already has upgraded valve springs and new valve stem seals because mileage and reading about how week the factory springs were. Used a spring upgrade kit from Alex's Parts. Was removing them to do seals anyway, so why put stock ones back in. I can't recall which kit I used since it's been several years, but I know that they were well recommended and appropriate for most stock hydraulic roller cams and atleast some performance cams. It also had cheap pedestal style 1.7 roller rockers installed at the same time. I went cheap knowing that they would eventually be replaced with an aftermarket cam and better rockers during a rebuild, and that I wouldn't be abusing it before that time. I'm pretty sure I measured for and installed pushrods too.

Honestly, it might not matter. When I pop the valve covers to inspect I may find a mess that rules out using that engine anyway. If that's the case the engines will swap places with the '00 going into the Ranger as is.

Not too worried about the engine build right now. Lets call that phase three. Phase 1 is getting the truck running, usable, and hopefully reliable with the basic swap. Phase two is intended to be suspension, but it might happen at the same time or first since it includes parts that will be needed with the AWD t-case.

 

[410Fortune]

I have put many 5.0 into 98-04 rangers
Good luck with the swap! We love to see details!