5.0 V8 sounds like a sewing machine when cold

[Grant_J]

Hi Everyone, newbie here, I did a search before posting but didn't find much.
My 1998 Explorer, 5.0 V8, now sounds like a sewing machine when it is cold out, or when the engine is just started.
If it's 40F or above the engine noise will slowly go away after the engine warms up, but if it's below freezing it pretty much stays that way regardless of how much it's driven.

What can I do? Is it a serious problem?

Thanks for your help!

Grant.

 

[Dan Whitaker]

I would say oil is not getting to the lifters or the lifters are on bleeding off.

What weight oil are you using?

 

[Grant_J]

What weight oil are you using?

Run of the mill 10W30. I forgot to mention the engine has approx 93K miles.

 

[Grant_J]

I've been doing more research on the internet and found this... does this sound plausible?


"I have a 97 Explorer XLT V8 that had what sounded like a lifter clicking or a bad valve. I tried Hi grade gas and additives with no results. The noise was worse when the SUV was cold and faded as it warmed up.

Last week I thought I had a hole in my exhaust and took it in for repair. Turned out to be a cracked EGR tube coming off the manifold. Got it fixed ($137) and now there is no clicking or noise whatsoever. The mechanic said an EGR tube going bad is often mistaken for lifter or valve noise. He also said it is very common with the Explorers so you may want to check this out if you have engine noise or ticking."

 

[Turdle]

yes
it is very common

Does it sound like it is mainly on the passenger side?

If you could have a friend rev it a bit ( in park of course) while you poke round under there-you might hear exactly where it comes from.

 

[local7teener]

My 5.0 is doing the same thing, although it IS the lifters bleeding. Granted i have almost 3 times the mileage, but poorly maintained engines i'm sure would age a whole lot faster. Before i put on the tmh's w/a new solid egr tube, i had the problem with the flexible rib's in the stock tube cracking, $60 for a new one from your dealership. If it is the lifters, just buy a new motor like i just did thank you stimilus check.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Are you sure your manifold gasket isn't leaking, and then sealing up as it gets warm? Very common on the 5.0 for the manifolds to leak. My passenger leaks a little all the time, but it's more pronounced when it's cold. It's been doing it for the last 90k so I think I'll leave it be.

 

[Grant_J]

My 5.0 is doing the same thing, although it IS the lifters bleeding. Granted i have almost 3 times the mileage, but poorly maintained engines i'm sure would age a whole lot faster. Before i put on the tmh's w/a new solid egr tube, i had the problem wiTth the flexible rib's in the stock tube cracking, $60 for a new one from your dealership. If it is the lifters, just buy a new motor like i just did thank you stimilus check.

What's your definition of a poorly maintained engine? I do the regular maintenance with it, no pampering but not neglect either.

The thing isn't worth a new engine... not with half the dash lights burnt out, the power antenna busted, the stereo display burnt out.. oi vey Ford.

 

[Grant_J]

Are you sure your manifold gasket isn't leaking, and then sealing up as it gets warm? Very common on the 5.0 for the manifolds to leak. My passenger leaks a little all the time, but it's more pronounced when it's cold. It's been doing it for the last 90k so I think I'll leave it be.

Are we talking about a leak on the garage floor kind leak, or a goop all over parts of the engine compartment kind of leak, or some other kind of leak? I definitely have no leaks on the garage floor..

 

[Dan Whitaker]

The thing isn't worth a new engine... not with half the dash lights burnt out, the power antenna busted, the stereo display burnt out

Dash/instrument lights are not that hard to do. There is plenty of threads on how to fix the display.

I'd much rather spend the money on a rebuilt engine than to go into hock on another vehicle.

 

[Turdle]

I don't understand how a bad antenna and a few burned out lights make a car worthless.It'll take one good staurday, and 120 bux tops to fix those problems.
Is there any way to get a video of your noise, with sound?

 

[Mbrooks420]

I was talking about an exhaust leak. I'm with JT. If a few burned bulbs, and a broken power antenna were my only problems I'd consider myself lucky.

 

[Mustang4mikey]

All i can say is that a few "Cosmetic" issues dont make a car worthless. All you gotta do is a little TLC=Time Love & Care and before you know it, your truck starts turning heads!
I speak from experience!
Baught plain old X and turned it into a nice looking Truck. The cost was minimal but the outcome is enormous. Had same issues as others; Dash lights, Few electrical issues but once they're fixed its all good.

I TAKE PRIDE OWNING MY RIDES! Both of my trucks stand out from the crowd only because i took time out to take care of minor crap that other owners didnt.

Dont be like those guys be like US!!!!!

 

[local7teener]

What's your definition of a poorly maintained engine? I do the regular maintenance with it, no pampering but not neglect either.

Well i wasn't implying that your engine was poorly maintained, but a neglected engine will obviously not last as long as a well maintained one. Fixing problems when the happen, not letting things go on and on broken. Just following a proper maintence schedule. I've got well over a quarter million miles and i have no oil being burnt, no leaks, COUNTLESS (tens? of) thousands of dollars wrapped up in it The only reason i need a new engine is the lifter bores are shot and the lifters bleed out.

Basicly I couldn't justify selling my car for what it would sell for because of the money and time i have wrapped up in it, not to mention it's my baby.

 

[eokie1]

I have a 96 EB with 5.0, bought new in 96 with 3 miles on it. VERY well maintained. I just took it apart, to replace the right exhaust manifold gasket, that I thought was leaking, but it was the manifold, cracked completely into 2 pieces !! New one is $196.99, here locally, made by Dorman..... Ford wants $682 for factory part !!!!! Trying to get the innter exhaust pipe bolt out, is a ***** !!!! 15mm, and VERY tight to get to.....if anyone has a tip on this, I would appreciate it !!!!

 

[Cobraguy]

The thing isn't worth a new engine... not with half the dash lights burnt out, the power antenna busted, the stereo display burnt out.. oi vey Ford.

You're correct. What a hunk of junk. I wouldn't put a dime in the POS. I am so sorry you have to put up with that. I want to help. Where do you live? I'll come get it for you so you don't have to worry about it any longer.

 

[Cobraguy]

I have a 96 EB with 5.0, bought new in 96 with 3 miles on it. VERY well maintained. I just took it apart, to replace the right exhaust manifold gasket, that I thought was leaking, but it was the manifold, cracked completely into 2 pieces !! New one is $196.99, here locally, made by Dorman..... Ford wants $682 for factory part !!!!! Trying to get the innter exhaust pipe bolt out, is a ***** !!!! 15mm, and VERY tight to get to.....if anyone has a tip on this, I would appreciate it !!!!

If that bolt is seized, you're in for a fight. Just soak it in penetrating oil over night before you start. That will certainly help. Also remove the outside bolt first. That will take off any tension on the inner bolt and help. Shoot...just cut the outer bolt off if you have to since you won't be reusing the manifold. You should probably install new bolts anyway if their corroded. (use antiseize!)

 

[eokie1]

update on 96 v8 exhaust manifold r & r

I have a 96 EB with 5.0, bought new in 96 with 3 miles on it. VERY well maintained. I just took it apart, to replace the right exhaust manifold gasket, that I thought was leaking, but it was the manifold, cracked completely into 2 pieces !! New one is $196.99, here locally, made by Dorman..... Ford wants $682 for factory part !!!!! Trying to get the innter exhaust pipe bolt out, is a ***** !!!! 15mm, and VERY tight to get to.....if anyone has a tip on this, I would appreciate it !!!!

OK, I removed the splashguard on that side (passenger), and then was able to get a 15mm socket onto that bolt, just enough, to get it loose. It was not seized at all, at least, after I had already soaked it with PB Blaster....the new manifold (made in CHINA....GGRRRRRRRRRR)
Came with 2 new flange bolts, that had 19mm heads, and I happened to have a crooked (kind of a shallow U shape....) wrench, that is 3/4", which is very close to 19mm, and it worked GREAT, for tightening that inner bolt, one little 1/6th turn at a time though.....took a while to get tight....you have to leave the outside one loose, get the inner one in really well, then match the tightness on the outer bolt. The quality on this Dorman header was OK, but one of the bolt holes was too close to the pipe, making it hard to get a socket on the bolt....but I managed to get it tightened down, with open end wrench, then 3/8" dr. socket after it was almost all the way tight.... (China QC not quite there.....) It had the heat insulators on it, just about identical to the original part, and the smoothness of the pipe, and the welds seemed better than the original part....original are crimped and bent, in spots... Just hoping this will help someone else out in future..... 96 Explorer V8 5.0 right exhaust manifold removal. Exhaust flange bolt removal.

Thanks, Jim in Dayton, OH

 

[MustangP51]

Wouldnt the check engine light come on if the egr tube was leaking? I have the same sound and wonder if this is the culprit, but i have no cel.

As far as your dash lights. The links in my sig will help you make them LEDs and they wont burn out for a looooong time.