How to: 5R55E Valve Body Rebuild Diary

[CDW6212R]

Do the EPC any time you get into the VB area, 75k is a good limit for those. That EPC is a high stress part, very critical. Get the B&W brand, common know.

Solenoids are reliable, but at any sign of an issue, I'd replace them all, also at say 75k or more miles. Those are all cheap compared to the EPC.

The bands should be adjusted for sure, but take your time doing those. It is tedious with theose locking nuts and the seals on them. Try to buy new nuts beforehand, they come with seals on them.

 

[97B4000]

Talked to Josh at Central Valve Bodies today. They can send me a rebuilt valve body that incorporates all the necessary changes (as I understand it). Will probably do that, but haven't pulled the pan yet. Seemed like a reasonable deal to get all the parts updated. Anybody do that (get a valve body from them)? Anything I should ask for (ie. updates/upgrades) from what they would ship by default?

 

[97B4000]

Hmmm, got the pan off. No debris in the fluid. No evidence of the gasket blowing out of the valve body, but I guess it could be where it isn't visible without dropping it. Every shift solenoid measured 27.x ohms, the TCO was 10, the EPC was 5 ohms.

Guess it will be time to drop the valve body next.

 

[97B4000]

Not much luck finding the cause. I did think to test the solenoids through the wiring harness, and pretty much got the same values. Dropped the valve body. No evidence of gaskets blowing out. No pieces of gaskets or much of anything else. There were some small crumbs of debris in the EPC screens. The EPC was pretty well stuck in the bore, so much so that I took out the torx screw on the end thinking it was keeping it on (think it is an adjustment screw though). Once I pried out the EPC, it went in and out of the bore easily. There was a tiny piece of what looked like a leaf stuck in one of the output ports on the TCC; no idea how it got there. It was brown, not black, and matched the leaves on the tree that I park under..... huh.....

Nothing really in the trans fluid other than dirt that was knocked off the underside of the truck (should have pressure washed it first). Got a little over 7qts out so far, hard to say exactly with some of it spilling.

Only thing I can think of is the EPC malfunctioning (sticking?) despite the electrical test being OK. Since the truck never had any of the TSBs done (as far as I know, it only went to the dealer once when the shift cable broke under warranty), seems like an updated valve body is next. The gaskets on the valve body are very, very brittle and I wonder if they just stopped holding pressure.

Can't think of any other explanation for the erratic shifting. Thoughts?

 

[97B4000]

In case anyone needs it, here are the pinouts on the wiring harness. Note, pin one is to the FRONT of the vehicle. The first time I looked at the chart, I read it backwards and didn't get any readings that made sense. The graphic shows the harness connector to the transmission, not the block on the transmission. You can also check the TSS sensor, if you want, in addition to the solenoids.

By measuring resistance (ohms) via the pins, you can also verify that the wiring harness is OK. And you don't have to dump the pan to do it.....

It does help if you have someone else to read the ohmmeter while you are holding the leads on the pins.....
http://www.superflow.com/support/supportDocuments/tranxpages/ford/5r55e.pdf

 

[97B4000]

Probably a stupid question, but -

Got to looking at some parts diagrams for the 5r55e, and some of them show a spring for the rear servo (the one that you have to take out to remove the valve body), and some do not. I don't remember a spring on that servo when I dropped the valve body out, and can't find one in my pile of parts (I dropped the servo in the pan but can't honestly remember a spring being on it). Looking at the servo, it is an aluminum casting, yet there does not seem to be any wear from a spring pushing on it. I mean, it is pristine - if something was wearing against it, it should have made at least a mark on the rough part of the casting. Nor on the body of the transmission, no marks on it where you'd expect a spring.

Are there 5r55e transmissions without a spring on the rear servo? Will it work without it? Mine is a first year, any idea if the spring was added later? I'll look again in daylight to see if it bounced away but this is odd. The part is available on e-bay if I need it....

 

[JK080]

There is no spring in the 5R55E, the picture you saw may be a older picture of a A4LD they used for the illustration because they look similar..

Even if you had a spring you should remove it, rebuilders leave them out to help with delays in reverse.

.

 

[97B4000]

Many thanks!

 

[97B4000]

Success! A rebuilt valve body from Central Valve Bodies did the trick. Couple of notes....

After taking the old valve body off, got my neighbor to read the codes in the computer (should have done that first) and the only one related to the transmission was P0715, for the Turbine input shaft speed sensor circuit. But, there are apparently so many things related to that code, that it might well be renamed "your transmission doesn't work" which was pretty well obvious by that point....

Ordered the valve body and it showed up 2 days later. Unlike my old valve body, the epc solenoid was not stuck in the bore... a clue, perhaps...

Had to get an inch-lb torque wrench, and after driving all over town, the only place I could find one was, you guessed it, Harbor Freight! So go ahead and order one and just get it over with.

Printed off the graphic on page 5 of this thread with the order of tightening the bolts. Clamped that to the frame rail and did several passes to bring up the torque. By the way, the HF torque wrench is not very handy starting out. I'd run the bolts down first, just fingertip tight. I happened to have a screwdriver-type in-lb wrench, but it only went up to 50 or 60 in-lbs so that was pass one. After that the HF wrench worked fine. Since the HF box says it is within 4%, I stopped at 93 in-lbs. Probably overly cautious but that should put all of the bolts at the upper end of the range (79-97 in-lbs).

Did have a scare when there was one extra bolt hole in the middle and didn't have a bolt in my piece of cardboard (a USPS flat rate box as I don't eat cereal, LOL). While panicking and looking around for another bolt, noticed that the extra filter bolt that came with the new filter might fit... wait a minute, Captain Obvious.... what are we missing.... d'oh!!! That's where the filter goes. Whew!

Bought a tub of cheap vaseline to help stick the pan gasket to the pan.... which was a total fail in 100+ degree heat. Cheap vaseline runs about like 30 weight oil at that temperature. Wheel bearing grease worked better.

For some reason I couldn't find Mercon-V ATF in gallon jugs anymore, and one local parts store didn't have any at all ???? Had to pony up for 8 individual quarts of mixed brands, but all had Mercon-V on the label so....

First drive out, truck still shifting very hard on 1-2, less on 2-3, and very smooth on the rest of the shifts. After driving it again, it is better. Thinking it may still be in 'limp home mode' due to the computer code. Need to get it reset and see. It seems to shift at slightly higher RPMs with my foot in it.

That's about it. Treated myself to a new creeper at HF. The guy at the register even found a $10 off coupon for the torque wrench, woo hoo!

Hope some of this helps the next person. BIG thanks to Central Valve bodies. They were quick to ship, patient on the phone with me, and everything was well boxed and bagged up (the valve body comes a little 'wet' from their testing machine. They even send you a big zip lock plastic bag to put your old one in, and a pre-printed return label, so don't throw the box away. I put the old solenoids back in mine and the brackets back one with the short screws, just like the new one showed up. Hope nothing fell out....

 

[StanMartin]

Glacier991 is still alive

In response to "I wonder if Glacier991 would have expected this thread would still be alive 10 years later" - I can say:

I an delighted to see that it not only alive but has generated nearly a half a million hits. I know it helped a lot of folks, and many others have posted similar useful information in it after I started it so the credit is not all mine.

I suspect many trans shops wished this didn't exist.

Thanks for the remembrance <g> I am still alive. (and well).

Glacier991 (Chris)

************And still using this thread today.... read through about 30 pages, but found everything I was looking for.. THANKS!!

 

[Paul Fithian]

Wanted to express great appreciation for all of the fantastic information presented in this thread. I've read every post and am amazed at the knowledge here.

I recently acquired a 2001 Sport Trac as a winter project, and have been upgrading quite a few items recently such as the interior, suspension, Spartan locker for the rear axle, and minor engine upgrades.

I replaced the transmission filter and about 5 quarts of the transmission fluid, it did not look burnt at all. Although it is shifting pretty well right now, I may go into the valve body and upgrade it.

I'm thinking of the following improvements:
1) Replace EPC Solenoid
2) 1L5Z-7Z490-HA Valve body separator plate with bonded gaskets
3) Install Superior K4R/5R55E shift kit
4) Replace reverse servo cover gasket

Can those here with more knowledge advise if there are other items I should do as well?

Can you also confirm if this would be a good upgrade to improve longevity of this transmission?

 

[BrooklynBay]

Look into getting Sonnax upgrade parts for the valve body, and Transtec D ring low/reverse servo seals.

 

[Paul Fithian]

Thanks!

You mean this: http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com...sion_reverse_servo_D_ring_p/230-00023256k.htm

And this: http://www.sonnax.com/parts/2172-zip-kit

Would I need the Superior kit if I do the Sonnax kit?

 

[BrooklynBay]

What's in the Superior kit that isn't in the Sonnax kit?

 

[Paul Fithian]

So here is what I am thinking now if I go into the valve body, replacing/installing these components. I'll adjust the bands as well.

1) EPC Solenoid BW 50155
2) Valve body separator plate with bonded gaskets 1L5Z-7Z490-HA
3) Sonnax 4R44E-5R55E-ZIP kit
4) Low/reverse servo piston D-Ring kit seals 23256K
5) Reverse servo cover gasket
6) Band adjusting nut (2 required)

Not sure of the history of this transmission, as I just acquired it with 256,000 miles on it. Shifts pretty well now, however I have noticed a slight delay on reverse engagement.

As with the other items I've done on this truck, I'm trying to restore it to original performance so that I can get many more years of service out of it.

Any other advice?

 

[BrooklynBay]

Since you're not having any issues other than a slight reverse engagement delay, it might just need a new D ring kit. The gasket usually lasts a long time, so it might be fine. You might as well replace it at the same time since you have to remove it anyway.

 

[CDW6212R]

I'd add an ATF additive from Lubegard, and the filter of course. Maybe an external filter if there's any question about the history of the trans, or it's been towed with or will be.

 

[Paul Fithian]

After some more time driving this Sport Trac, the transmission shows no sign of abnormal operation other than a delay when shifting into reverse when warmed up and sometimes a shudder when going in reverse. No leaks or funny smells, the fluid looks great.

Any other advice other than the items I listed above?

 

[bluestream1]

Before you go throwing parts at it, I would verify if the updates have been done. If you have a bonded separator plate then it has been serviced at one point. If it has just a gasket, then it is original. However, it has lasted all these years, let sleeping dogs lie????

 

[Paul Fithian]

I've ordered parts and the ATSG manual, I plan to tackle this in a month or so when the weather warms up.

So I have two options once I drop the pan:

A) Drop the valve body and replace all the items

1) EPC Solenoid BW 50155
2) Valve body separator plate with bonded gaskets 1L5Z-7Z490-HA
3) Solenoid bracket XL2Z-7L491-AA
4) Sonnax 4R44E-5R55E-ZIP kit
5) Low/reverse servo piston D-Ring kit seals 23256K
6) Reverse servo cover gasket 23128
7) Band adjusting nuts 25991
8) Transmission Pan Gasket 23141D​

2) Only replace the Low/reverse servo piston D-Ring and pan gasket

Option 1 is attractive while I have the pan dropped, as I suspect I may have do this down the road. Once and done.

Option 2 is attractive as it is less work, and the transmission works fine except for the delayed reverse and infrequent shudder while reversing, only after it warms up.

Any further advice?