How to: 5R55E Valve Body Rebuild Diary

[calmac06]

Reverse?

What about that reverse noise? Any ideas?

 

[BrooklynBay]

Check the seals on the low/reverse servo. I would recommend the viton D ring kit.

 

[joey0514]

2001 Sport Trac, Trans. problem

Hello Glacier991, I'm Joey by the way, I have for the past two week been reading most of your response you have posted related to the tranny blow-off gasket VB. Well I need help and if you may answer a couple of question for me, thx. (Before I start I must mention that this is a family truck mostly for travel miles 115,000) Let me get started, because I know you’re very busy, I started having problems with my 2001 STrac tranny O/D blinking, I notice that my 5th gear (4R55E) was not engaging my RPM were around 3200 or so. My reverse and other gears were fine. At this point in time I started reading most of your stuff and others trying to get an idea or opinion of what could be wrong? Well I took it in to a shop (codes stuff) and the individual there say 2 and 5th gears were causing my problem and that so sensor were needed (this would cause me around $1600) wow (Ford charge me $77 and they say 3k to rebuild). So I say to myself "NO" this guys are ****en crazy. So I started my project to fix this truck, I might say that I do have some knowledge in other older models, use to help my dad or brother work on there trucks & cars back in High School. So here's my 1st step change the oil and filter, did that and right away to my surprise I found no pieces of metal or gasket of any kind (staring at oil pan) and the oil was red in color. Installed the oil filter and new gasket and added oil and Lucas for protection. Took it for a drive (I read that I had to warm it up first, and I did) and the same problem O/D blinking no 5th gear, notice 2nd was dragging also or 1st. Came back to the website read some more VB gasket blow out and replacing EPC ( Did that made sure I follow all your steps, 72-97 inches in VB, added new oil and filter) warm it up took it for spin, no luck O/D blinking no 5 all gears doing fine, NOOOooo. I was think Glacier, all those days spend SH**, well I woke up this past Monday took it to another Shop. This guy gave me another codes, he said EPC, 2nd solenoid, low pressure and broken gasket ( didn't mention that I had already replace EPC and the gasket by the way at the time when I was putting the new VB gasket I also took the time to check the solenoids all were working .027, .005, .011 blah blah). Glacier what is going on why the low pressure can it be the pump? Right now, she's on stands and I'm working on the VB, rechecking values and rings I notice Valve Plug Retainer on EPC was kind of scratch. Any ideas, man I would surely be thankful.

 

[BrooklynBay]

End plugs could be leaking. Try a new boost valve with O rings, and an end plug kit with O rings. Did you clear the code when you did the valve body work? Maybe you were getting the old code?

 

[CDW6212R]

Ditto, hopefully some of that is from the previous codes. I also am going back in soon to add the o-ring end plug kit to my VB, and other items that I didn't know about two years ago. My shifts are a bit soft for me right now. Regards,

 

[1st Lt Dan]

Just passing along this in support of those dealing with new or past problems with 5R55E transmission rebuilds.

History: Total rebuild on carry in unit; torque convertor, bands, EPC solenoid, master kit, Superior Shift Kit. Found very little hard parts damage. Burnt clutches, bad torque convertor. Re-assembled unit. Used inch pound torque wrench and followed torque sequence. Dyno Tested at friends trans shop. No 4th or 5th. All others fine. Removed valve body and used friends air test plate on the case. No leaking air anywhere. Bands and clutches all tested good. Had 1st, 2nd, 3rd and reverse. Dis-assembled valve body. No sticking valves anywhere. Volt tested solenoids. All moved every time. Ohm tested well within range. Tested wiring harness with no problems. Seen no reason to dis-assemble case again.

FIX: Warped valve body; checked surface with machinist straight edge, high spot on the two solenoid side area between the two solenoids pretty much all across the middle. Had friend at engine machine shop mill the valve body down several thousands until flat. Thoroughly cleaned valve body. Re-assembled valve body and re-installed according to procedures. Dropped unit off at dyno room. Tested good. Now have all ranges.

Suspected warped body upon dis-assembly of valve body. Those who have been in transmissions all know the witness marks left on gaskets. All contact areas have imprints upon the gasket material. This valve body did not have contact areas all across the surface of the new gaskets. Can only assume that the valves were pinched in the area where bolts were pulling the valve body down as far as it would go. Once the valve body itself was trued up by milling it flat at the machine shop then the valves could ALL move freely as intended with a properly torqued down valve body.

Found out at my friends transmission shop that his valve body test stand pump was out. I couldn't test the valve body before installing it the first time. Only could dyno test the unit. One of his rebuilders had a 5R55E that they had to disassemble 4 or 5 times before it started working right. They usually have no problems when they do all the updates and shift kits. It seems there is always a unit every now and again that gives you fits.

I found this web site due to researching this problem I was having with No 4th or 5th after rebuild. I can say I have learned much here and I have told my friends to visit here.

I hope this post helps someone to at least - not give up and plow on ahead toward fixing your problem. If you know you have built the unit and all test shows no reason to tear it all apart again - start with ruling out with what IS working. Then hunt down in the areas where the shift should occur. I had 2nd so my band should and did work in 5th. I started to suspect direct clutch having a pinched piston seal yet the test plate air test showed all internal clutch packs were working. Not finding any mis-installed valve trains and no stuck valves I looked at the new gasket and there was my clue. It wasn't sealing all across the valve body.

This valve body problem evidently has been going on long before I ran into this. I am very glad that you people have went to all this trouble to help others. I hope this helps some of you as well.

My son will be home from the Army. We intend to enjoy our time together. You folks enjoy the holidays with your families as well. Truely, some of the best things in life are free. Again, thanks for your help.

 

[mountaineer99]

1999 mountaineer 4x4 4.0sohc

I read your information on rebuilding the valve body on the 5r55e and I am going to attempt to do the rebuild. My vehicle has 195,000 miles on it and was wonder how hard is it to replace the transmisson?
I do not know how much work is involved to remove from the transfer case?

 

[BrooklynBay]

Everything is bolted on. You need a good jack (either a transmission adapter or a transmission jack), sockets, wrenches, extensions, universal, and a pry bar.

 

[CDW6212R]

Plus a 1/4" torque wrench, the VB bolts should be no more than about 90in.lbs.

 

[Satch]

Hey guys I'm new here. I must say that this forum and this tread specifically is great! Much more detail than the other forums on this topic.
Ok, so here is my problem. I have a 2004 Ranger w/ the 2.3L and the 5R55E trans w/ 80k miles on it. I have had the 2nd to 3rd gear problem for a while now but lately it has been getting really bad. I took it to a local shop and the guy drove it and said the trans was bad. He didn't even want to rebuild it, just wanted to charge me $3400 to replace it. But after doing some research on this site and others I think the problem is in my VB. I want to try to rebuild the VB and see if that takes care of the problem, but I am not sure what kit to buy. I know most people on here go for the Ford kit and the Superior kit, but my truck is a 2004 and the TSB everyone refers to is only for trucks up to 2001. So if the TSB kit is not for my trans then do I get just the Superior or maybe go with the Transgo kit? Any ideas? Oh and thanks Glacier and all the rest for putting together such a great thread on this subject. I am sure you have saved a lot of us many headaches and spent dollars!

 

[Glacier991]

I have not checked to see the application for the Superior, and I will assume FORD made a running change in their proooduction including the upgrade once they discovered it. I'd probably do the superior in this case, because the Transgo also addressed the FORD Mod.... which I doubt you need. Also look at Sonnax offerings.

 

[Satch]

Thanks Glacier, I thought that might be the way to go. Always good to get a second opinion. Thanks again and welcome back!

 

[calmac06]

Finally pulled the VB and did the Ford TSB, Sonnax boost valve, EPC and seperator plate. Fixed the weird reverse noise but still having problems staying in overdrive.

I'd like to know which of these solenoids controls the shifting into overdrive?
Is it a shift solenoid http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=609-00056841U&CartID=1

or the TCC solenoid http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com...onverter_solenoid_1997_on_p/230-00023391c.htm

Thanks!

 

[BrooklynBay]

5th gear is a virtual gear, so it's a combination of things (solenoids, servos, bands, etc).

 

[calmac06]

Well the code for the CEL is "5th gear incorrect ratio"... any ideas anyone?

 

[Doug Fraser]

Thank-you

I have a 99 EB with a 5R55E.

I was experiencing the 2-3 flare and the transmission was throwing codes regularly. I also experienced a strange shudder that occured occasionally on slippery roads (mainly snow covered). Not sure if the shudder was transmission or engine related.

I read though this thread (like a billion times) and ended up getting a value body from Central Valve Bodies at the forum discount. A local trany shop installed the valve body, put in a drain plug and synthetic fluid (already had a cooler).

A couple of shops suggest a rebuilt transmission ($2000 installed). All costs in, I am at little less than $400.

Thanks to this thread knowledge is power!

Everything now runs like a top! Was out on a snow covered highway (for about 50 miles) and didn't experience the shudder. I hope its gone for good.

Thank-you, Thank-you, Thank-you.

Doug

 

[CMOS]

Wow. I just read through ALL of this thread and all I can say is - damn. Great info.

A question about the various methods for this VB rebuild:

Is there is difference in result (performance) between 1) FORD TSB + Superior Kit and 2) TranGo Kit?

The two methods above seem to be the most common but I'm having trouble distinguishing between why someone would choose one over the other.

Thoughts?

CMOS

 

[35Remmy]

Throughout this forum, I too have been wondering what the differences are between using the FORD/Superior kit or the Transgo kit by itself.

I have a 99 Ranger, 4.0, with a 2-3 flare and shuddering in 3rd under light throttle. I just purchased the truck (80,000 miles) and have no idea when the tranny fluid was changed last, although it's pink and smells perfect. I've read that in many cases, changing the fluid will illiminate the shuddering problem.

Also, I have been noticing many successes using rebuilt VB's with Sonnex upgrades...what upgrades does a VB with the SONNEX upgrades offer?

Lastly, for 250$, is is much labor AND cost effective to just purchase the rebuilt VB?

Glacier, we're looking for you! Thanks and I know that this site will prove invaluable!!! This rebuild diary is the Holy Grail of rebuild diaries.

It also makes me DESPISE some transmission rebuilders, or at least the ones I've dealt with in the past. If it doesn't shift right, they immediately write you a $2,000 estimate with a rebuild parts list. I have had a horrendous past with transmissions...and I baby my vehicles.

I'm a FORD fanatic but Holy ***t, why can't they make a transmission anymore? I've had an older Ranger, a Taurus, a 5.0 Explorer, and this Ranger, and they've ALL had tranny problems. The only vehicles I've owned with WORSE transmissions were Jeeps. OMG I won't even go there. '93 Wrangler, 2.5 liter, AX5 manual...4, yes count them, FOUR transmissions!!!!!!!!

 

[newmab]

Throughout this forum, I too have been wondering what the differences are between using the FORD/Superior kit or the Transgo kit by itself.

I have a 99 Ranger, 4.0, with a 2-3 flare and shuddering in 3rd under light throttle. I just purchased the truck (80,000 miles) and have no idea when the tranny fluid was changed last, although it's pink and smells perfect. I've read that in many cases, changing the fluid will illiminate the shuddering problem.

Also, I have been noticing many successes using rebuilt VB's with Sonnex upgrades...what upgrades does a VB with the SONNEX upgrades offer?

Lastly, for 250$, is is much labor AND cost effective to just purchase the rebuilt VB?

Glacier, we're looking for you! Thanks and I know that this site will prove invaluable!!! This rebuild diary is the Holy Grail of rebuild diaries.

It also makes me DESPISE some transmission rebuilders, or at least the ones I've dealt with in the past. If it doesn't shift right, they immediately write you a $2,000 estimate with a rebuild parts list. I have had a horrendous past with transmissions...and I baby my vehicles.

I'm a FORD fanatic but Holy ***t, why can't they make a transmission anymore? I've had an older Ranger, a Taurus, a 5.0 Explorer, and this Ranger, and they've ALL had tranny problems. The only vehicles I've owned with WORSE transmissions were Jeeps. OMG I won't even go there. '93 Wrangler, 2.5 liter, AX5 manual...4, yes count them, FOUR transmissions!!!!!!!!

I would go with the rebuilt valve body from www.centralvalvebodies.com. I did the whole ford TSB. Even replaced the EPC. Didn't change a thing. The shift flare just gradually got worse. I took it to a recommended shop to get some hint on what the problem was. They just wanted to replace the darn thing. I found a little info at the local ATSG shop. Stating that the flare could be caused by a bad 2nd to 3rd shift solenoid. But I just decided to replace the VB and have not regretted it. (Its a 99 Explorer 4.0 SOHC) Shifts like a dream.
www.geocities.com/btah02@att.net/5r55eFlare.pdf
www.geocities.com/btah02@att.net/img021.pdf
www.geocities.com/btah02@att.net/img022.pdf
Get yourself one of these too!
http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/ATSG_Transmission_repair_manual_s/12044.htm

 

[netevo]

First I want to say thank you everyone here for your help. I have a 2001 ranger 2.3 with 140,000 miles that developed the 2-3 shift flare, plus other small anomalies. A national transmission shop said it was shot, and needed rebuilt. This is a truck i use as a work truck, and didnt want to spend thousands on it. After reading in this forum I concluded the problem was the vb gasket. Findind a tear in it, i replaced the 2 gaskets and installed the Transgo shift correction kit. I did all the updates to the vb plate and vb that the Transgo instuctions suggested. I did not replace the EPC because of the price and the fact that it looks easy to replace if later needed.

This fixed the 2-3 flare and the transmisson shifts great now. Only one other small problem now. When slowing down, say to a rolling stop, and then accelerating, it downshifts to first (sometimes to second at higher speeds), it shifts really hard. it bangs into gear fairly hard. On slippery surfaces it will easily break the tires loose. It doesnt bother me too much, was wondering if this is the nature of the Transgo kit. It did not do this before the fix mentioned above. It is hard enough to surprise someone new driving it, say, if I decide to sell the truck... might run them off because it feels like another transmission problem.

Does anyone else have this problem? Any ideas on a fix? I worry that this downshift may be hard on other parts and drivetrain.

Thanks again to all