How to: 5R55E Valve Body Rebuild Diary

[BrooklynBay]

Welcome to this forum! It could have some left over debris caught somewhere or it might be the idle air control valve which coincidentally started to act up around the same time.

 

[saling4]

I hate coincidences.

 

[saling4]

The Idle AIr Control Valve was replaced by PO as far as I can tell. Really shiny and new looking. Doesn't mean it isn't bad though. Any way to verify if it is working or not?

 

[saling4]

If it is the Torque Converter Lockout, Can I change the Torque Converter Solenoid? If so it seems I can change it in the truck, Is that right? Also after thinking last night I recall that since I got the truck the RPM's have always dropped to about 500 when I go to Reverse and sometimes would stall out. The change in that now is that it just stalls out in reverse as well as Drive.

 

[CDW6212R]

Ask the symptom question to Chris or another expert. You can change the TC solenoid or the others, but the VB may have to come down for that. They solenoids all go into the VB sides, there may or may not be room to replace them with the VB attached. The EPC is over $100, the others are not expensive at all. Regards,

 

[saling4]

Where the heck do you find these solenoids? Autozone? Internet? Ford?

 

[BrooklynBay]

WWW.TransmissionPartsUSA.Com, WWW.BulkPart.Com, WWW.FastPartsNetwork.Com or WWW.800700Tran.Com.

 

[saling4]

I just checked with a Tranny shop about doing the electrical check on the solenoids and he said that was no big deal, BUT that I probably wrecked my tranny by changing fluid and putting new fluid in it. He said that the new fluid cleans the tranny and I probably have a bunch of junk in the torque converter and no matter what I do I will probably have the same problem until I get a rebuild. PLEASE tell me he is an idiot.

Thanks
Brian

 

[wood1]

Ah, the age-old argument on should you change the fluid or should you leave the old in. My tranny had 280,000 kms on it when I changed the fluid and filter. I did have to rebuild the VB and replace the governor but at that amount of KMS I think those are maintenance items. I also added an external filter and additional cooler. I think he's full of $h!+.

 

[saling4]

Thanks Woody I feel better. Was feeling like an idiot for trying to maintain this thing.

 

[saling4]

To Glacier: I apologize for asking questions about problems in this thread (I just read page 12). If the moderator wishes to delete my stuff to keep this thread clean and on point please feel free. I will open my own thread with my problem.

Thanks again to all that have helped.

 

[ellis11]

Well the Transgo kit is done. Shifting is definately much better with no slipping. It's like driving a different car. When I jump on the gas it kicks into a lower gear and does what I expect it to do. Prior to installing the Transgo kit, it just seemed to mush along and I couldn't hardly tell if it shifted gears. I doubt that the weather will get cold enough again to check the delayed shift into Reverse and especially Drive. I'd be willing to bet that the reverse servo D-ring kit would have fixed that issue by itself.

I used the 98 VB and just used the Transgo kit with the original seperator plate so it looks like I have an extra new seperator plate and the Ford TSB kit left over. I also installed a new EPC solenoid and the reverse servo D-Ring kit. The D-Ring kit is a very tight fit when reinstalled in the VB. Even after buying all the extras I still saved a bundle from the dealer cost of the Ford mod.

Thanks to all of you that answered my guestions. Your help has been invaluable.

Well it's been about 20 months since I installed the kit and the transmission is still working like new. My 97 Explorer now has 154,440 miles and the engine still runs great and burns no oil. The Transgo kit was one of the best investments I ever made in a car.

 

[merkur1988_blue]

Thanks for this forum

I finished my 5R55E valve body upgrade, using the postings in this thread. I am very happy with the results. My 1999 EB had a bad shift flair 2-3 and sometimes would slip so bad I would have to let up on the gas, hoping that 4th gear would grab and keep me going.

I did the Ford TSB with bonded plate gasket and relief valve, also put in most of the Superior shift kit. I readjusted the bands. But I did not replace the EPC solenoid. I planned on replacing the EPC solenoid later. I later found a new EPC valve on Ebay for only $20 + shipping but have not replaced it yet.
My total parts cost so far is around $250, including Superior shift kit, Ford TSB parts, Sonnax, filter and Mercon V. This doesn't include the new TPS ($45).

I also replaced the Modulator valve with the Sonnax unit. I could not
remove the coast clutch retaining plug, so I left it alone. I also left out the "pressure riser" mod, with the resistor crimped onto the EPC wiring.

I also added a drain plug by drilling a hole and brazing a 12mm nut on the inside of pan. Kragen had a 12mm drain plug with gasket. It doesn't leak a drop.

When I first got it running, it wouldn't kick down and I thought the EPC valve was bad. It turned out to be the TPS wasn't putting out a good signal. My EB now shifts better than ever, better than when new, after replacing the TPS. The shifting is very smooth. It downshifts and accelerates better than ever, with 103,000 miles.

 

[darkwish]

I'm about to order the parts to do the rebuild, but I have a question on which separator plate I need for my explorer.

98/00 4.0L - EI Explorer Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 1L5Z-7Z490-GA 98GT-CB/DB; XL2P- EA/FA
98/00 4.0L - SOHC Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 1L5Z-7Z490-HA 98GT-AA/BA; XL2P- CA/DA

I have '99 Explorer XLT V6 SOHC, so do I get the GA or HA plate? I assume there is a physical difference between them?

 

[merkur1988_blue]

I found this on www.justanswer.com/uploads/kennyz1963/2008-07-12_113221_tsb03-22-10.pdf
1998-2001 Models ONLY
98/01 2.5L Ranger Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 1L5Z-7Z490-DA 98GT-GA; XL5P-CA
98/00 3.0L Ranger Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 1L5Z-7Z490-EA 98GT-EB/FB; XL5P-AA/BA
98/00 4.0L EI Ranger Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 1L5Z-7Z490-FA 98GT-KB/LB;XL5P-DA/EA/FA
98/00 4.0L EI Explorer Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 1L5Z-7Z490-GA 98GT-CB/DB; XL2P- EA/FA
98/00 4.0L SOHC Plate - Valve Body Separator1 1L5Z-7Z490-HA 98GT-AA/BA; XL2P- CA/DA

It looks like the HA is for the SOHC V6. Check the tag on the back of the tranny to see
if its a XL2P- CA/DA. Good Luck

 

[Glacier991]

Nearly 100,000 reads on this. If we saved an average of $100 (avoided un-necessary rebuilds etc) per visitor, we have aided the economy by keeping 10M in our readers pockets !

Is that economic stimulus or what?

I am heartened that this tghread has helped so many. I get emails often saying so and so shop wanted $2000-$3000 and I fixed it using this thread for (oh about $$30 average).

You all rock. Long live DIY.

 

[djayc1]

I have a question regarding the seperator plate, and I am sure that it has been asked. But I am tired of searching... I have a gasket between the VB and the Seperator plate, and I also have a gasket on the top of the seperator plate, is this the bonded gasket that comes with the seperator plate if I order it???

 

[merkur1988_blue]

The new design separator plate has gaskets bonded to the top & bottom. So if you buy the Ford part (1L5Z-7Z490-HA 98GT-AA/BA....) it already has the gaskets attached.

If you use an aftermarket rebuild kit or shift kit, they come with new gaskets and you have to scrape the old gasket off the old separator plate.

I used the new Ford part it was easier.

 

[djayc1]

Thanks Merkur. I am glad to know that. I will probably buy the Ford one.

 

[Lyman]

Glacier, (or others)

'97 4.0l SOHC w/ 5R55E 4WD

I am aiming to fix a minor shift flair and slow reverse. Read the diary.... etc. (great) pulled all my parts together. My experice... I would rate as highly skilled (car, boats airplanes, engines etc.). I've done transmission work to my other '97 OHV 4WD without an issue (different exhaust).

My problem..... the pan... I cannot get it off. It did not have a clip on it (purchased the X used so I'm assuming someone previous had ditched it) but I simply cannot get it to slip out. It is simply too tight between the 4WD shaft and Catalytic Cov.

Any suggestions?

It looks like I'll have to support the xmission and remove its cross member to create more room. There are no signs of damage, but it seems like the cat is too tight (to the drivers side) by about 1/4". Either that or perhaps try to push the cat. over.

Thanks in advance