91 XLT 4x4

[jghake]

I am looking at a 91 XLT 4x4 and thinking of purchasing. I drove it around a little last night and it seems pretty solid. Approx 165k miles

The owners bought it a year ago and only drove it a few hundred miles before parking it. It has sat since.

They put a new battery in yesterday and it fired right up. It seemed to run a little rough for the first few minutes but I think that may be attributed to an old tank of gas and sitting for a year.

Apparently the previous owner got it on trade (I guess he was a mechanic and fixed it up and the person didnt pay). I was told it has a new alternator, water pump, and fuel pump.

The engine is fairly clean, and the transmission feels really tight with no hesitation or slipping when shifting.

The 4x4 engages fine with what I would consider a fairly normal *clunk*. It did take me a few tries to get it into 4x4 Low but once it went in the first time it went in/out without problems.

The center console (bench seat type) is loose. It feels like it just bolts to the back of the drivers seat and came unbolted.

The drivers door handle bucket is broken but a new set can be had on eBay for $50.

The wiper speed switch stopped working and some idiot drilled a hole in the dashboard and installed a toggle switch. I get full on or off, no speed control. I looked at the wiring and it looks like he just spliced in on the wires going in and out of the stock switch. If the switch he installed is off and I turn the stock knob to full on it works, if the stock switch is anything but full on it does not but flipping the switch near my shins turns the wipers on. A new switch can be had on eBay for $50.

It has running boards but on the passenger side the part that holds the board solid in the wheel well is missing. If you step on the board it sorta sags. I can't tell if these running boards are stock or not so I don't know the difficulty of finding the piece that is missing. I did find someone on Craigslist in my area that has a set off of a '92 that I can pick up for $50.

The A/C does not work. If I put the lever on A/C or push the knob in to get the light to turn on all I get is hot air. It was getting dark last night while we are looking at it so I was not able to determine if the compressor was kicking in or not. I will be heading back to the vehicle today or tomorrow.

The outside body is in really good shape. The only defects I was able to find was the rear window spray nozzle seems to need replaced. There is a crack in the drivers side of the windshield about 12" long.

Rig has what looks to be an aftermarket tow hitch on it.

My question: Should I be looking for anything else before I consider purchasing? They had it listed as a 96 for $1950 but when they sent me pictures I knew it was a Gen 1 and asked her to check the title. After finding it is a '91 I am sure they will be willing to come down in price. My wife and I were thinking of offering $1500 cash. Does that seem fair or should I ask for a lower price?

Thank you all for the help. I have already been able to use a few of the posts I found on this site in my search for a new rig!

 

[Roadrunner777]

If you care about the AC, you should see if it is the stock R12 or the 134a. It looks like it is in great shape exterior. If everything worked, I'd say $1,600 would be fair. (the market on these are way down due to gas mileage, you should bring that up.)

Then, everything is not working. You have at least $400 to $800 to put into it to make everything work. So, now you are at $800 to $1,200. I would start negotiations at $1,000, noting all of the above. I would not pay over $1,200 myself.

Also, give it a major test drive, get everything warmed up, and get on a dirt road to test 4x4.

 

[mr cribb]

LOWER!!!!

Gen 1's can be had all day long for less than a grand. Even with the amount of miles you listed.

Trade value on these is crap. Last I looked I think mine was worth 600 trade if that.

Looks like an older person owned it judging by the running boards.

The 2 weak links are the electronic transfer case shift motor on 4x4's and the auto trans.

Check the fluid level, the color, and smell it. If it smells burnt walk away (JMO).
Should be at the correct mark on the dipstick, a decent red color, and not smell like burnt fluid.

With the sputtering could be bad/old gas, or could need a tune up. Could have some sensors that need cleaned.

The A/C most likely has a leak. And since it was an R-12 system, might as well update the system to 134a. (assuming it hasn't been updated already)

I had the same front seat when I got mine, same issue console broken.... swapped out for bucket seats and a normal floor mounted console.

Bucket seats are far more comfy than the bench.

I see you mentioned ebay on some things... if you don't mind saving money check local junkyards to you, preferably the ones you can pull your own parts. You might be surprised at the condition of some parts.

 

[LONO100]

i live in california where everything costs a little more and i would still try to get that thing for around 1200. it is in nice condition for its age, but it is also 20 years old. you never know whats going to pop up once you get it home.

 

[jghake]

Thanks for the information guys. I just wanted to go into this without offending the seller. I tend to pick the price I think is fair and not dicker at all. (Example: I just sold my 1997 Mustang SVT Cobra to fund this. I sold it for a few under book because of the times and a few very small things wrong with it. Fair for both of us)

I just spoke with the licensing office (I'm in WA) and they say it will be about $250 to get it registered and the taxes paid. I don't know if I'm willing to pay $1750 for this thing just to get it moving down the road. Maybe I will tell them that $1200 is the most I can do and see if they bite.

The A/C does bother me a little but I had a '86 Mustang GT for like 5 years without A/C. The upper hose looked like it had caught on fire before I bought it. Just never fixed it...

 

[jghake]

What economy can I realistically expect from the following vehicles: (all auto transmission)

91-94 V6
95-98 V6
95-98 V8

 

[Roadrunner777]

91-94 V6 runs 12-17 city, a little better highway. I have heard of 21 highway, may be a matter of gearing.

If you are still considering, then also check for the presence of a trans cooler behind the grill. That's a good thing.

 

[mr cribb]

I've gotten 22.5 highway from a 2wd 5 speed w/ 3.27 gears.

V8's get 12-14 city / 18-20 hwy.... depending on how hard you are with go pedal.

 

[jghake]

Thanks guys for all of your help/input. I ended up finding a Loaded 2000 XLT for $2300 so we jumped on it! Man is it nice!!!

4.0 SOHC / 5 speed Auto / 4x4/AWD / 216k miles (hopefuly this doesnt bite me in the ass :scratch

 

[mr cribb]

Thanks guys for all of your help/input. I ended up finding a Loaded 2000 XLT for $2300 so we jumped on it! Man is it nice!!!

4.0 SOHC / 5 speed Auto / 4x4/AWD / 216k miles (hopefuly this doesnt bite me in the ass :scratch

Hopefully the timing chains have been serviced.

I had a 2000 EB w/ the SOHC motor.... it had a blown head gasket. I traded it off after I realized how much it was going to cost to fix it.

The trans is a good one.

 

[jghake]

Hopefully the timing chains have been serviced.

Is there a way for me to tell if this has been done? I read on the forums here that there was a recall in the early 00's and was hoping I might be able to find out of this one was serviced under warranty.

 

[jghake]

Is there a way for me to tell if this has been done? I read on the forums here that there was a recall in the early 00's and was hoping I might be able to find out of this one was serviced under warranty.

1-800-392-FORD (3673)

I gave them my VIN and they said it had the tensioners replaced under warranty!!! It also had a speedo cable, some bolt for the reclining seat, some bracket for the OBDII (I think) and some voltage sensor or something.

The lady was really nice and helpful and just said that ALL of the work was just done because of recall's and may not have been because it NEEDED replaced.