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93 Explorer project "The Hulk"

Ok to give a starting point i want to say that i have had a 91 X that i had the Superlift 5.5" lift on back in 2001 took it to MOAB and had a blast including jumping it 5' yes FEET off the ground at the dunes. However it was unfinished and i was 19 and traded it in for another vehicle and have regreted it ever since. Then in August of 2010 i found this 93 that i purchased for $400 because it needed a clutch and was beat up a bit. So Since then all i have done was a clutch until recently. I started replacing a few things here and there including one front fender which the other needs to be replaced as well eventually. Then i finally decided it was time for the fun stuff. SO i purchased another superlift 5.5" Superrunner lift, the one with the extended radius arms. I also purchased a set of used tires and rims tires are 35 12.50 r15. Then i purchased a set of 4.56 ring and pinion with master rebuild kits for both axles. And i wanted to start logging all this on here for others to see as well as advice. So you know before i get beat up too bad on the TTB i thought about going to a straight axle and i might eventually but i personally kinda like the TTB and this is also still going to be my every day driver, I just want it to be more offroad capable as well. I plan to replace all seals and bearings in both axles MAINLY in front while its all apart, and probably painting/undercoating both axles at the same time. Any ideas on some small things that i may want to consider WHILE im doing the lift and gears to possibly save me some time or hassle down the road a bit????

Thanks for reading if you were able to read through it all just wanted to give a good background. OH YA and i will post some pics soon of the 93 as well as a couple of my first X the 91.
 


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adamsbro2

Bryan
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Pics lol.

Sorry boss...didn't get a chance and then left for California for the weekend....got back and been busy working lol......I set an alarm to remind me to snap some tomorrow.
 


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adamsbro2

Bryan
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It's all good man. Thank you good looking ex by the way.

Thanx.......and I did get some pics and will post em up tomorrow. .....I'm a procrastinator. ......went fishing all day today
 








madbutcher

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92 Explorer Eddie bauer
I have started on my lift and find myself reading the 3 first pages here dayly.. and all i can get out of it is that my 33's are to small for the 5.5" lift:D
 




adamsbro2

Bryan
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I have started on my lift and find myself reading the 3 first pages here dayly.. and all i can get out of it is that my 33's are to small for the 5.5" lift:D

Since you got the fiberglass fenders I would say ya you might as well go with 35s.....but if you didn't 33s would be perfect.
 




adamsbro2

Bryan
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It's all good man. Thank you good looking ex by the way.

I haven't forgotten you....I have been having trouble getting the pictures to load up on here....pretty sure it's my phone.....and my comp is down so....I'm working on it I'm really sorry bro
 








DUDER 1

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I haven't forgotten you....I have been having trouble getting the pictures to load up on here....pretty sure it's my phone.....and my comp is down so....I'm working on it I'm really sorry bro

No worries man, I just wanted to do sliders next just wanted some ideas.
 




adamsbro2

Bryan
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No worries man, I just wanted to do sliders next just wanted some ideas.

finally got some pics for ya of where I cut my rockers.

Since the doors are not on the truck when I took these pics ill just tell ya that the bottom of the door was like 1/4" above the cut line. If I had thought it through a little more I probably would have gone about 1/2" lower so that I was JUST even with the bottom of the body mounts but as it sits I cut the rockers a little higher than the body mounts.

20150430_153855_zpsvspq64vk.jpg


20150430_153849_zpsoq5mbsto.jpg


20150430_153819_zpsdexpjlno.jpg
 




adamsbro2

Bryan
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So I did a few things over the last few days. For one I removed the basket from the top cause I never use it and therefore its a waste. I removed my entire interior, doors, lots of wires that I don't need. Some that I will have to run new ones (radio wires). Replaced a front hub AGAIN. Had to run some new wires for the rear locker cause mine got crushed and cut. But most of all I got rid of that PIA Electronic 4x4 crap and installed a manual shift transfer case. So if anyone needs a transfer case I have one available.....the case is fine it was just the electronic shift stuff that kept giving me problems. Anyways here is a small write up I did on the swap.

Ok guys I know this has been done by a few people but I thought I would share my experience. My electronic shifting transfer case quit shifting for me for the last time. I was tired of having issues with it. So I went to the scrap yard and got a BW1354 Manual shift transfer case with shift linkage and swapped it out. I tried to do a pretty detailed step by step job with pictures but I did kinda get into a few other things as the project went on and I may have missed a pic here and there but I can take more pictures of whatever anyone needs if they want more. HERE GOES.

First and foremost don't forget to be safe doing any work guys. Saftey glasses when working under any vehicle is a very smart idea cause there is always stuff falling. You should remove the negative cable from the battery just in case. The truck should be either chalked so it cannot roll or on jackstands. OK now on with it.

First I had to remove the shifter, Starting with the knob. Mine was an aftermarket knob that had a few allen screws holding it on others screw off some just pull off.

IMG_6030_zpsp9yusfaa.jpg


Next was the Shift boot. There are 4 screws holding it down. They are Phillips head screws and you will likely need a shorter driver to get to the back ones under the dash. There are 2 screws at the top of the boot and 2 at the bottom.

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Then the boot should pull right up.

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Next is the bolt that holds the shifter on the trans shaft. This bolt can be confusing to someone who hasn't ever dealt with it. As it sits here the nut is tightened up on the back side to pull the bolt through the hole.

IMG_6034_zpscu5k6hrz.jpg


If you take the nut off this side and tighten it on the other side it will pull the bolt out. The size of the nut here is a 17mm.

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This shows the bolt and how it wedges in to stop the shifter from pulling off the shaft.

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After the bolt is out the shifter should pull right up with ease.

Next you remove the rubber cover to expose the trans tunnel and trans.

IMG_6037_zpsdjgmidc2.jpg


Next you have to pull the carpet back to get to the bolts for the trans tunnel cover plate. You can pull the carpet back enough to get to the bolts without pulling seats and or console if you don't mind fidgeting a little. Honestly it wasn't too bad....... There are several things holding the carpet in place that need to be removed for ease of pulling the carpet back and reinstalling it. First up is the kick panel on the drivers side. There are 2 screws and one clip holding in on. The first screw is right between the door and the dash.

IMG_6038_zpsh86xgyg4.jpg


Next is the front most screw on the door sill trim piece.

IMG_6039_zpsamxtpdc5.jpg


To remove the rest of the door sill trim piece there is 1 screw on both sides of the B pillar between front and back doors and you have to remove the front most screw of the back sill piece...

IMG_6040_zps4c49yv3z.jpg


Now at this point I opted to remove my drivers seat because its fairly easy and would give me a little more flex in the carpet to get where I needed to be. So to do this there are 2 bolts on the front of the seat rails

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and 2 on the back of the rails

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as well as one for the seat belt buckle.

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The bolts are 13mm or 1/2" and the seat belt bolt is a torx bit T45.

Having all that removed you should be able to pull the carpet back enough to expose the 4 bolts holding the trans tunnel cover plate on. These bolts were an 8mm and they were all easy to get to at this point except the farthest back bolt on the passenger side. It was still easy enough to get to for removal but not easy to get a picture of it.

IMG_6044_zpswu54xxhy.jpg


IMG_6045_zps1vs2jkom.jpg


Here is a picture of the cover removed the 4 bigger holes in the corners are the ones that held it down.

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At this point everything you need exposed from up top is done for the time being. Keep in mind that even an automatic transmission will have this cover over the tunnel it just will not have a hole for the shifter.

IMG_6047_zpsgopkolwc.jpg


Next up is removing the rear driveshaft.

There are 4 bolts holding the front flange to the transfer case and 4 holding the rear flange to the axle pinion. These bolts are 12 point 12mm.

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Next I removed the speedo gear. The one bolt holding this in was an 11mm.

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Next was the skid plate. There are 2 10mm bolts on each side of the plate holding it up to the frame.

20150427_135729_zpsz59bz8lb.jpg


Here is a view from the back of the transfer case. At this point I had already cut the wires and removed the shift motor on the trail so I could manually put it in 4 LO. There are a few bolts that hold it on I believe they are 8mm and there is one connector, and a few other wires. pretty easy to take off when you look at it.

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Next I removed the front drive shaft from the transfer case. these 4 bolts are 12point 8mm.

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Next up was a bracket bolted to the transmission for the vent line off the transfer case. This just happens to be right where the shift linkage for the manual transfer case bolts up. this was a 15mm bolt.

20150427_140540_zpstvnazq41.jpg


Next there are 5 bolts that hold the transfer case onto the transmission. I was able to get a picture of 3 of them and I put a red dot on the picture by them. There are 2 more towards the top that I couldn't get a good picture of. These bolts were 13mm or 1/2". After you take these bolts out the transfer case will be essentially loose. It may take some gentle persuasion to slide it back and off the trans output shaft but be careful and be ready so you don't drop it.

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Here is a couple pictures to show the small difference of the 2 cases. which is just where the manual linkage ties in.

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This is the point where I started to get distracted and didn't get many pics of it going back together. However it goes back together exactly the way it came apart with the exception of the linkage and where it bolts onto the trans. Like I showed before it bolts right onto the same place that the bracket for the vent line previously did. the linkage and shifter has a spot built into it for the vent line..

Here is a picture of the shifter and the linkage. The bracket I am holding in my hand is the vent line bracket.......the bolt that held it on goes through the hole on the shifter linkage that I circled in red.

bcd6ebc2-2b40-4736-bfb6-6f11030d53b3_zpsedfmfyjj.jpg


The red dot on this picture shows where that bolt goes. There is one other bolt that holds the linkage together and gives it a pivot point. I am not sure of what size the head is cause I used channel locks to remove and install it.

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Now I should have grabbed the trans tunnel cover plate from the donor vehicle but I didn't so I had to modify my current one a little to make room for the new shifter. But all in all it wasn't to hard.

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Well there ya have it I no longer have electronic 4x4 to break on me when I want/need it the most. I hope this helps someone down the road at some point. And I sincerely apologize for my ADD getting the best of me so I wasn't able to take many pics of it going back together. However if you took it all apart using this then putting it back in should be a snap.

Thanks for reading...........Happy Exploring everyone.
 




adamsbro2

Bryan
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Oh ya I also replaced a ujoint on the rear driveshaft....and changed the fluid in my rear diff while inspecting everything all looks well still.....I am going to have to get some tube doors or make up some sort of half doors cause not having my side mirrors drives me nuts.....also still gotta figure out what's up with my wipers and get my radio and some speakers installed as well as my cb put in....ya still lots to do......and to think I was going to try and get the sas done before moab......we all dream right.
 




5spdman

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we all dream right.

Hhhmmmmmm........sorry, what? :D

Sure looks like you have quite the work load...have a few things to do myself, but nothin like that! Good luck to ya!
 




DUDER 1

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finally got some pics for ya of where I cut my rockers.

Since the doors are not on the truck when I took these pics ill just tell ya that the bottom of the door was like 1/4" above the cut line. If I had thought it through a little more I probably would have gone about 1/2" lower so that I was JUST even with the bottom of the body mounts but as it sits I cut the rockers a little higher than the body mounts.

20150430_153855_zpsvspq64vk.jpg


20150430_153849_zpsoq5mbsto.jpg


20150430_153819_zpsdexpjlno.jpg

Thanks for the pics man. I want to run rock sliders and my rockers are kind of rusty being that the ex is from Jersey.
 




adamsbro2

Bryan
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Thanks for the pics man. I want to run rock sliders and my rockers are kind of rusty being that the ex is from Jersey.

Mine were too which is what made me decide to just cut em off rather than replace.......I was amazed at the clearance gained
 




DUDER 1

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I think once the sliders are on and painted it will look normal. I never really like sliders under the factory rocker panel anyways. When they are cut away it looks more aggressive to me lol. Thanks for the info.
 




DUDER 1

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This may be a dumb question but is the ratio different on the manual transfer case. Thanks again.
 








adamsbro2

Bryan
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Here is the album for our recent trip to moab. and madbutcher I registered mine as a fullsize atv so I no longer need mudflaps or fender flares.....
 


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reapereviltwin

Keep on wheelin John Rock
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The Hulk is an awesome rig for a great bud!! Wheeling with you and your family in Moab has been great!!

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