97 5.0 EGR line question

[Mitchs07explorer]

The next step on my project is to replace the EGR line as it has cracked all the way through. I've been searching for a new EGR line and there seems to be plenty available from various manufacturers ranging from $20 to $100. I was planning on buying one Rock Auto, they have a Standard Motors EGR line for $40.

The cracked EGR line i have on my manifold right now has a corrugated tube, all of the replacements I'm finding all have smooth tubing. My manufactur date was 11/96, am I looking at the right tube? There only looks to be one replacement whenever I do a search but I want to make sure I order the right part. Is there a major difference in the quality of these various tubes? I find it surprising that Dorman makes the most expensive replacement.

 

[J_C]

All I can suggest is take yours off and see if the dimensions, bends, and two little tubes look compatible, though I suppose that could be difficult if it's falling apart during uninstall or due to being corrugated, loses its routed shape.

Dorman, I appreciate that they sell some harder to find parts that the OEMs discontinued or never offered, but I've never seen them sell a higher quality version of anything and might only pay more for that brand if the only other option was complex part made for a generic brand in China... which ironically may be the exact same part Dorman is selling.

Anyway on Rockauto I'm also seeing a Ford part # listed but out of stock. I found it on eBay for $40 with free shipping and would get that, or a $24 $20 generic on eBay, after taking yours off to see if it looks compatible. That is unless I were already ordering other things at Rockauto to offset the shipping.

Edit: This one on ebay is gone, now next cheapest Motorcraft on eBay is $80
Ford OEM F77Z9D477AB Genuine OEM EGR Tube | eBay

New EGR Line Ford Explorer Mercury Mountaineer 1997-2001 F77Z9D477AB 646621673263 | eBay

 

[delexploder]

You have a late 97 with the tubular manifolds , ive had issues with the egr tube length between those and the cast iron ones , a little heat and bending corrected the issue , also if the tube is cracked most likely your manifold is also

 

[Turdle]

I might add you are most likely to crack the manifold when you apply the high amount of torque needed to remove the egr nut, if it isn't cracked already.

 

[Mitchs07explorer]

I ended up going with the $24 generic. Now I've heard a couple of you mention that the manifold is probably cracked or will break when I try the repair. I was hoping to buy myself a little time because I'd really like the torque monster manifolds but cant fork out the $1000 for them at the moment. I'm glad I picked up an impact wrench and compressor not to long ago. It's already made a couple of the jobs I've had to do a lot easier and I know it would be a big help pulling bolts out of different areas of the exhaust. I've seen some fairly low cost manifolds on eBay, I suppose I could throw one of those on until I get the TM's.

 

[Mitchs07explorer]

Just lucked out, I found a set of OBX headers on eBay. Still more than I wanted to spend but I've been hoping those would pop up.

 

[delexploder]

I'm in the same boat rt now , both of my tube manifolds are cracked but ill have to settle for the cast iron ones , im a single dad and i cant justify the cost , my girls come first

 

[Mitchs07explorer]

I might add you are most likely to crack the manifold when you apply the high amount of torque needed to remove the egr nut, if it isn't cracked already.

@Turdle i know you're extremely knowledgeable and maybe you can help me with this question. I just purchased a pair of OBX headers as they were available on eBay. I do have the external EGR line on my passenger side stock manifold even though my vehicles build date was 11/96 according to the door sticker. Do you or anyone for that matter know if some of the last Explorers to roll off the line in 96 were set up with the more modern setup? I mean it's gotta be right if I have the external EGR!?

 

[delexploder]

yes if you have the external egr then you have the p heads and tubular manifolds and its a " late " 97 version , dose your tag on the computer say xdt2 ?

 

[Mitchs07explorer]

yes if you have the external egr then you have the p heads and tubular manifolds and its a " late " 97 version , dose your tag on the computer say xdt2 ?

I'll have to check that tag, can you tell me where the comp is located

 

[Mitchs07explorer]

Never mind, found it, it does say xdt2

 

[Turdle]

@Turdle i know you're extremely knowledgeable and maybe you can help me with this question. I just purchased a pair of OBX headers as they were available on eBay. I do have the external EGR line on my passenger side stock manifold even though my vehicles build date was 11/96 according to the door sticker. Do you or anyone for that matter know if some of the last Explorers to roll off the line in 96 were set up with the more modern setup? I mean it's gotta be right if I have the external EGR!?

That I am not sure of but have never heard of a p headed explorer built in 1996.

Does the door tag Vin number match the firewall Vin number?

 

[Mitchs07explorer]

That I am not sure of but have never heard of a p headed explorer built in 1996.

Does the door tag Vin number match the firewall Vin number?

I was going to check that as well, I'm wondering if at some point the door was replaced due to a collision or something, I will check. My tag on my computer does say xdt2 and I definitely have an external EGR.

 

[Mitchs07explorer]

Door sticker vin and Vin at bottom of windshield match. Maybe I got an oddball first run with the newer gen 2 setup.

 

[GLOCKer]

Sorry to hi-jack, but will the cast headers fit on the pre-February 1998 Explorers? Mine is a 1998 but was built sometime late in 1997 I believe. I hear some sort of exhaust leak when under throttle. Truck idles quiet and smooth.

 

[delexploder]

Yes i have swapped back and forth between the two types , the only issue ive had is the egr tube being a bit off but with a little heat from a cheap propane tourch on the bends ive been able to make it fit

 

[CDW6212R]

The EGR tubes with the flexible/corrugated section should fit better given the slight flexibility.

I finally replaced the EGR tube in my 98 Mercury a year ago. I took a chance on an Amazon sourced part(smooth pipe, no flexible section), even might have been Dorman. The price had changed while in my saved list, and I grabbed three of them when I saw the $8 cost. Fortunately it fit well, the angle at the manifold was close enough that the fitting went on with slow effort.

Interestingly, Amazon raised the price of that item right after I bought three, it went to about $45 in a couple of days(the saved list section highlights price changes). If you are price shopping for anything that Amazon has, and are not in a rush, put it in your saved for later list, and go to your cart regularly. The changes are listed at the top of the page each time you go to the cart.

 

[GLOCKer]

Bear with me here as I'm learning...

My 1998 Explorer was built in the later part of 1997 so it'd have the fabricated headers. If they crack, are they weldable? Replacing that EGR tube is going to be a priority for me: I 've got that load exhaust leak under throttle and I'd like to be able to hear the rest of my Explorer as I fix it up so I can fix it up!

 

[Mitchs07explorer]

The EGR tubes with the flexible/corrugated section should fit better given the slight flexibility.

I finally replaced the EGR tube in my 98 Mercury a year ago. I took a chance on an Amazon sourced part(smooth pipe, no flexible section), even might have been Dorman. The price had changed while in my saved list, and I grabbed three of them when I saw the $8 cost. Fortunately it fit well, the angle at the manifold was close enough that the fitting went on with slow effort.

Interestingly, Amazon raised the price of that item right after I bought three, it went to about $45 in a couple of days(the saved list section highlights price changes). If you are price shopping for anything that Amazon has, and are not in a rush, put it in your saved for later list, and go to your cart regularly. The changes are listed at the top of the page each time you go to the cart.

I love when that happens, I've gotten many good deals that way. Consequently Amazon also jacks up the price when they know they've only got a one or two of said items left in stock. Trying to corner people into paying more because they're "out of stock".

 

[CDW6212R]

Ditto, the prices do change a lot, up and down if you watch something of interest.

Rock Auto is about the best source for parts, but finding part numbers can be as important. It's best to search through as many sites as you have time for, and use a local parts department if you can for some obscure things. I like these forums to help with some rare stuff, often someone has hunted what you need before, and posted details that help others.