97 5.0 EGR line question

[Turdle]

I have a tip.
To bend the egr tube, place it tightly in a vice but allow the part you want to move to hang free. then, a 1/4" extension used as a lever inside the tube end. give er a try

 

[GLOCKer]

Is a $16 EGR tube worth trying for a vehicle that will not see a lot of mileage? If I replace the EGR tube, do I need to do the EGR valve and gasket too or am I good to go leaving it be if I'm not seeing any issues from that? I have a feeling it'd be a good idea to replace, but if I can save the money...

 

[Spudhut]

what if you add a little heat to the corrugated section to help with the needed flex?

BUST OUT THE TORCH!

 

[Mitchs07explorer]

Is a $16 EGR tube worth trying for a vehicle that will not see a lot of mileage? If I replace the EGR tube, do I need to do the EGR valve and gasket too or am I good to go leaving it be if I'm not seeing any issues from that? I have a feeling it'd be a good idea to replace, but if I can save the money...

There's probably others here that can answer better than I can but I'm wondering if the aftermarket tubes are all the same. The stock picture seems to be identical for all the tubes that I've looked at. Not to say that all the sellers could be using a stock picture from ford but my guess is they're all coming out of the same factory. Maybe there's some differences in the alloys that might allow the cheaper ones to crack a little earlier but I bet unless the tube has been severely stressed it'll probably last nearly as long as the original. Just my opinion.

 

[Mitchs07explorer]

Okay just an update on the EGR line I ordered from eBay for $24. I think the only thing that's probably different between the higher and lower priced tubes might be the quality of the welds on the two smaller tubes that come off the main body. The welds are kind of sloppy, I'm not sure if that'll cause any problems but probably not unless I try to tweak them but I wouldn't see a need for that since the hoses that connect to them are rubber. The OBX manifolds I bought come with a new EGR line as well so I can compare them but I don't necessarily know that the EGR line that comes with those manifolds is going to be made any better. I was thinking I'd try to fit one of the EGR tubes onto the stock manifold for now (I don't think it's cracked... yet). I still need to turn the engine on after all my other repairs to make sure it doesn't blow up on me lol. So that way I can make sure things are working properly before I install the OBX's.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Bear with me here as I'm learning...

My 1998 Explorer was built in the later part of 1997 so it'd have the fabricated headers. If they crack, are they weldable? Replacing that EGR tube is going to be a priority for me: I 've got that load exhaust leak under throttle and I'd like to be able to hear the rest of my Explorer as I fix it up so I can fix it up!

I’m pretty sure it’d just crack directly next to the weld. If you try and remove it you will likely find it is actually cracked right in two.

 

[Mitchs07explorer]

Okay my manifolds arrived today! I thought they were gonna be another day or two. The EGR tube looks like it was costomized to work with the OBX manifolds but the welds are quite a bit cleaner. so that would be my guess as to the difference.

 

[Mitchs07explorer]

Got the EGR line I stalked tonight, was easier than I thought it would be, I just ended using a big 1 1/16 wrench for both nuts. I had to heat the one on the EGR valve and hit it with PB to get it to break loose, that thing wasn't budging for anything. Surprisingly I didn't have to bend it beforehand it went right into place. I tightened both nuts as tight as I could get them till neither moved anymore.

While I was at it I also replaced the PCV valve and that surprisingly was more of a PIA than the the EGR tube. I had to unbolt a large connector to get the the PCV valve, when putting that bolts back in I dropped my 8mm ratcheting wrench and I have NO clue where it landed. I looked for it for like 30 min with no luck but it's also 1am and not the best time to try to find something when not your sharpest and worn out. If anyone has any ideas where I should look next I'd appreciate it I have no idea where it could've gone back there

 

[CDW6212R]

That probably ended up on top of the transmission, there's a vent tube and wiring up there. Try a magnetic telescoping tool to fish it out.

 

[GLOCKer]

I haven't even had time to tackle my exhaust leak issue yet or see where it's coming from. I'm really hoping it's not the headers or EGR tube. I really need to keep repairs at a bare minimum to maintain marital bliss (she didn't want a third vehicle on the insurance and a forth vehicle at the house). I'm really hoping if the exhaust leak is past the headers I can just have it patched for a couple bucks. I'm concerned that monkeying with the EGR tube is going to screw up the header now!

 

[Turdle]

I can almost assure you the 98 has cracked passenger side manifold. Haven't had a 98 at my house that didn't. 3 of em.

 

[CDW6212R]

I can almost assure you the 98 has cracked passenger side manifold. Haven't had a 98 at my house that didn't. 3 of em.

I can give you hope, my two 98's have the original manifolds on them still. I replaced the EGR pipe on my Mercury last year. It had been splitting at the corrugated section for years. It was PITA, but the manifold has no leak.

 

[GLOCKer]

I can give you hope, my two 98's have the original manifolds on them still. I replaced the EGR pipe on my Mercury last year. It had been splitting at the corrugated section for years. It was PITA, but the manifold has no leak.

Good to hear! I'm hoping to save money here and there fixing this thing up because I have a bad feeling I'll be putting some money into the transmission and/or rear end!

 

[Mitchs07explorer]

That probably ended up on top of the transmission, there's a vent tube and wiring up there. Try a magnetic telescoping tool to fish it out.

I tried fishing around from the top of my engine with my magnet last night but by 1:30am my patience was wearing thin lol. Before I left for work this morning I peeked through the drivers side wheel well at the rear of the engine and other than a bracket that holds one spark plug wire that's bolted onto the engine, it looks like a pretty clear shot to the back of the engine/top of transmission. I'll take that off and hopefully I can get my arm through there and feel around for it. I suppose I should be glad it was something like a wrench versus a tiny bolt

 

[Mitchs07explorer]

Good to hear! I'm hoping to save money here and there fixing this thing up because I have a bad feeling I'll be putting some money into the transmission and/or rear end!

So far mine appears to not be cracked but maybe it's something I can't see and I'll only find out once I fire it up. I did used a good penetrative lubricant for several days before I even attempted to loosen either nut. The one on the manifold broke free fairly easily and then just spun off. The one on the top was much more difficult but after I took a torch to it and used some PB blaster while still hot it did come off just fine. Just don't do what I did at first which was crank on it in the wrong direction

 

[CDW6212R]

Tightening a fitting sometimes may help, but those big nuts are just way tight and have lots of thread surface area. They almost always are stuck very well. Use anti-seize to install them, Ford didn't put anything on them.

 

[Turdle]

I tried fishing around from the top of my engine with my magnet last night but by 1:30am my patience was wearing thin lol. Before I left for work this morning I peeked through the drivers side wheel well at the rear of the engine and other than a bracket that holds one spark plug wire that's bolted onto the engine, it looks like a pretty clear shot to the back of the engine/top of transmission. I'll take that off and hopefully I can get my arm through there and feel around for it. I suppose I should be glad it was something like a wrench versus a tiny bolt

If worse comes to worse, there is a how to for removing the center console. 4 bolts, one connector bolt and a few good whacks and the whole thing comes out. Then, under the carpet is an access panel to the top of the transmission.

 

[Mitchs07explorer]

If worse comes to worse, there is a how to for removing the center console. 4 bolts, one connector bolt and a few good whacks and the whole thing comes out. Then, under the carpet is an access panel to the top of the transmission.

Thanks for the info, I'm hoping ill be able to snag it through the fender but nothing is usually that easy lol.

 

[Mitchs07explorer]

Found my wrench! Went home on lunch and figured I try fishing around with the magnet one more time, it was waaay down there, luckily the wrench was small and I didn't have to worry about it hanging up on stuff.

 

[CDW6212R]

Cool, more time and patience, a little luck, tongue sticking out like Jordan, easy. Now drive it and hopefully you can't find anything else it needs. Turn the radio on high, and it doesn't have any squeaks or rattles.