a4ld valve body ?'s | Page 5 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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a4ld valve body ?'s

How was it maintained? Was the fluid always replaced at regular intervals? What kind of fluid was used? Did it always run at a cool temperature?

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Hello Im looking for a little help with my A4LD transmission in my 94 Explorer It works great except on cold start ups. its a little slow going into reverse then backs up fine.but when it is placed in drive ,to move forward it may take ten to 20 seconds to engage. After the initial problem it will work great until the next cold startup,Its like the fluid has to warm up. so far to try and solve the problem i have installed a shift correction kit ( valve body springs etc.) new vb gaskets.D ring and seal on the reverse piston. new filter ,fluid and a antifriction additive But the problem still persists ,maybe even a little more pronounced. Any help or input will be highly appreciated. Thanks Elbow

Did you add Sonnax upgrades such as end plugs with O rings, and a boost valve with O rings? Did you use an In/Lb torque wrench on the valve body bolts?

wait to go,

I have only had this explorer for 4 months,so I dont know a lot about the history,( maintenance and service) I noticed the shift was off when I test drove it but thought that it jus needed to be serviced,so i went ahead and bought it. one of the first things I did was service the trans,and I could see that the oil pan was all cleaned up as though it may have been worked on. I Changed fluid and filter and adjusted the bands,according to information on band adjustment from this site. although the shift was improved I still had the slowww drive engagement on cold startup.

Connect a 0-300 PSI pressure gauge onto the rear test port, and take readings in all of the gear ranges. I suspect that you might have low hydraulic pressure when the slow engagement problem occurs.

The kit Iused was the transgo ska4ld jr' cost about 23 bucks and yes on the inch lb. torq wrench'.

will do the pressure test . what should minimum acceptable pressure be? and could this still be a valve body problem ? much thanks Elbow

Check # 10 in my list of useful threads for more information.

How was it maintained? Was the fluid always replaced at regular intervals? What kind of fluid was used? Did it always run at a cool temperature?

it was changed regularly and up until my torque converter went out it seemsed to run fine and then towards the end it smelled kinda hot ?any ideas of things to look for while its apart im just surprised things look so good for 285k miles

If you have a pump alignment tool, open the pump, and check the gears for hair line cracks. Check the governor for free movement. The rear thrust washer usually grinds down with use, and should be replaced. The one way sprags should be checked for one way operation. The manual slide valve should have a completely round opening, and not an oval shape. The Z link should not be bent out of its Z shape. The internal 3 wire harness should have no cracks on its insulation. Replace anything which looks questionable.