AC explosion sound | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

AC explosion sound

samo_finest

Member
Joined
January 18, 2021
Messages
13
Reaction score
4
City, State
eugene
Year, Model & Trim Level
2013 explorer sport
So long story short, i have those crappy AC gauges and it was giving a low reading while the ac line was full of air.. i always test air in AC lines to make sure no leaks before i pump in refrigerant. I heard a real explosion when i kept adding air based on false reading. Please note that i didn’t hear any air leak with the explosion.. would that be only AC compressor or there is another reservoir elsewhere!!

Ford explorer 2013 Sport
Thanks
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





I'm not that familiar with the system but wouldn't think that there would be another reservoir. Is that compressor still working?

Peter
 






Maybe the desiccant bag inside of the accumulator?
 






I'm not that familiar with the system but wouldn't think that there would be another reservoir. Is that compressor still working?

Peter
No bc there is a hearable leak when i add air to the line coming from the air compressor area
 






Sorry didn't get the part about an audible leak, maybe the front seal on the compressor? is there an in-line muffler down by the compressor?
 






Just a tip and should be done. AC systems should be evacuated with a vacuum pump before charging. Pull down to about 30 inches. Shut off GA valves and let it sit a few minutes or longer if your not in a hurry. If the vacuum holds there are no leaks. This process also removes moisture from the system. Can't say I've ever heard an explosion sound from an AC system. Did a lot of them back in the day..
 






Just a tip and should be done. AC systems should be evacuated with a vacuum pump before charging. Pull down to about 30 inches. Shut off GA valves and let it sit a few minutes or longer if your not in a hurry. If the vacuum holds there are no leaks. This process also removes moisture from the system. Can't say I've ever heard an explosion sound from an AC system. Did a lot of them back in the day..
Yes i do that all the time but i wanted to fill it up by air till nearly summer to spot tiny leaks before i add refrigerant.. when i added air the gauge was reading 20 psi then 25 psi then baaang. so apparently there was more than 60 or 70psi but it wad just 25psi on the gauge
 






Guys, NO AIR in AC SYSTEM!!!! it if not immediately but eventually kill your ac system. the problem is that different oils in ac systems can create acids and explosive vapors when mixed with moisture (it depend on type of oil in the system).

This is from EPA manual for 609 certification:

Leak Testing Although the EPA has not mandated leak repair at this time, when servicing an automotive air conditioning system, you should repair leaks whenever possible. Adding refrigerant to a leaking system is harmful to the environment, a waste of valuable refrigerant and it is unlawful in some states. Before beginning a service job, the technician should perform a thorough visual inspection and leak check of the system. 6 When using an electronic leak detector, always follow the manufacturer's operating instructions. In addition to the manufacturer's instructions, the following should be observed: 1. Always leak test with the engine off. 2. Only, a small amount of refrigerant is required to perform a leak test. A gauge reading of 50 psi is all that is needed. At temperatures below 50°F., leaks may not be measurable, since 50 psi may not be attainable. 3. To avoid contaminating the tip of your leak detector, remove excessive dirt from suspected leak areas. Do not use cleaners or solvents, your detector may be sensitive to their ingredients. 4. Visually inspect the system, and look for signs of air conditioning oil leakage, damage, and corrosion on all lines, hoses, and components. Each suspected area should be carefully checked. 5. Follow the system around in a continuous path to ensure that no areas are missed. If a leak is found, continue to check the remainder of the system for additional leaks. 6. At each area checked, move the probe tip around the location at about 1" per second while holding the probe no more than 1/4" above the surface of the area being leak checked. 7. To verify an apparent leak, blow shop air into the area of the suspected leak to clear any refrigerant that may linger and repeat the leak check. 8. To leak test an evaporator core, operate the air conditioner with the blower motor on high for a minimum of 20 seconds. Shut the air conditioner and blower motor off and wait for the refrigerant to accumulate. Insert the leak detector probe into the blower resistor block or the condensate drain hole (if no water is present). If the detector indicates a leak, the evaporator or the line connections to the evaporator are leaking. After a system has been opened for repair, the system should be properly leak tested before charging with refrigerant. The system should hold a deep vacuum (27 in HG. or more) for at least one minute before charging. If the system will not hold a deep vacuum, a minimum amount of refrigerant (enough to produce a positive pressure) can be added for leak testing. An alternate method of leak testing is to use Nitrogen (an inert gas) to pressurize the system, and then pinpoint leaks with a soap and water solution. Whenever dry nitrogen from a cylinder is used in a service procedure, you should always charge through a pressure regulator, and have a pressure relief valve installed downstream from the regulator. NEVER pressurize the system with oxygen or compressed air. When mixed with refrigerants and their lubricants, oxygen or compressed air can cause an explosion.

Mark
 






Guys, NO AIR in AC SYSTEM!!!! it if not immediately but eventually kill your ac system. the problem is that different oils in ac systems can create acids and explosive vapors when mixed with moisture (it depend on type of oil in the system).

This is from EPA manual for 609 certification:

Leak Testing Although the EPA has not mandated leak repair at this time, when servicing an automotive air conditioning system, you should repair leaks whenever possible. Adding refrigerant to a leaking system is harmful to the environment, a waste of valuable refrigerant and it is unlawful in some states. Before beginning a service job, the technician should perform a thorough visual inspection and leak check of the system. 6 When using an electronic leak detector, always follow the manufacturer's operating instructions. In addition to the manufacturer's instructions, the following should be observed: 1. Always leak test with the engine off. 2. Only, a small amount of refrigerant is required to perform a leak test. A gauge reading of 50 psi is all that is needed. At temperatures below 50°F., leaks may not be measurable, since 50 psi may not be attainable. 3. To avoid contaminating the tip of your leak detector, remove excessive dirt from suspected leak areas. Do not use cleaners or solvents, your detector may be sensitive to their ingredients. 4. Visually inspect the system, and look for signs of air conditioning oil leakage, damage, and corrosion on all lines, hoses, and components. Each suspected area should be carefully checked. 5. Follow the system around in a continuous path to ensure that no areas are missed. If a leak is found, continue to check the remainder of the system for additional leaks. 6. At each area checked, move the probe tip around the location at about 1" per second while holding the probe no more than 1/4" above the surface of the area being leak checked. 7. To verify an apparent leak, blow shop air into the area of the suspected leak to clear any refrigerant that may linger and repeat the leak check. 8. To leak test an evaporator core, operate the air conditioner with the blower motor on high for a minimum of 20 seconds. Shut the air conditioner and blower motor off and wait for the refrigerant to accumulate. Insert the leak detector probe into the blower resistor block or the condensate drain hole (if no water is present). If the detector indicates a leak, the evaporator or the line connections to the evaporator are leaking. After a system has been opened for repair, the system should be properly leak tested before charging with refrigerant. The system should hold a deep vacuum (27 in HG. or more) for at least one minute before charging. If the system will not hold a deep vacuum, a minimum amount of refrigerant (enough to produce a positive pressure) can be added for leak testing. An alternate method of leak testing is to use Nitrogen (an inert gas) to pressurize the system, and then pinpoint leaks with a soap and water solution. Whenever dry nitrogen from a cylinder is used in a service procedure, you should always charge through a pressure regulator, and have a pressure relief valve installed downstream from the regulator. NEVER pressurize the system with oxygen or compressed air. When mixed with refrigerants and their lubricants, oxygen or compressed air can cause an explosion.

Mark
I vacuum the system for 10min before adding air to make sure no leak in the long term. That time i actually didn’t vacuum the system after discovering a leak from first time.. so after i fixed the leak i added air right away :( it happened so quick and i regret not vacuuming before adding air in the second time, i should of done that.. so sad but learned my lesson.
 






So long story short, i have those crappy AC gauges and it was giving a low reading while the ac line was full of air.. i always test air in AC lines to make sure no leaks before i pump in refrigerant. I heard a real explosion when i kept adding air based on false reading. Please note that i didn’t hear any air leak with the explosion.. would that be only AC compressor or there is another reservoir elsewhere!!

Ford explorer 2013 Sport
Thanks

So this is what i found the broken part at… probably the condenser! Do i have to change the whole condenser or this is just a replacement part!

Thanks
 






So this is what i found the broken part at… probably the condenser! Do i have to change the whole condenser or this is just a replacement part!

Thanks

Its right behind the compressor passenger side above the radiator drainage
 

Attachments

  • FullSizeRender.MOV
    6.6 MB






That exploded for sure.
 






Back
Top