BD's 2000 Explorer Limited

[CDW6212R]

Most of the VB kit parts go into the VB itself, which isn't altered in a rebuild. There are a couple of springs etc that replace those just inside the case. Most rebuilds don't change any of those kinds of parts unless they seem damaged or worn. So unless the rebuilder goes about changing odd parts trying to guess at the cause for an issue, all of the VB kit work is left intact. I would of course tell a shop doing a rebuild whether the trans had any recent work done or parts replaced. That helps them to know what to look for and to leave alone.

I have a 94 Mustang GT that I might later get running again(it's wrecked), and for its mild stock condition I'd do the TransGo kit in it. But that's a 94 AODE which isn't quite as good as the 98+ 4R70W. It would also need a couple of other upgrade parts that are stock on 98+ transmissions.

Check on eBay and see what variety of pricing is there for the HD kit, the one that is always over $60 or so. TransGo has a basic correction kit that used to cost $26 or so, but now is over $40. That's a fine kit for just a basic tweak of a trans, it doesn't do as much.

 

[BrianDye]

Cool man youve been a huge help, I talked to my buddy and were gonna give it a go. I want the best pwrformance kit for a daily driver. Meaning I still want a comfy ride

 

[CDW6212R]

That sounds like a plan. See what the cheapest is on eBay etc, and I'll sell you this one for less. Also if your friend doesn't have any kind of 4R70W/AODE manual, start hunting that too. Those used to be only about $15, shop around and see if you can do better than the $40+ I've read of before.

 

[BrianDye]

I'm on my phone right now so ill search later, this phone has the worst web browser known to man (HTC Hero)

Would I just search 4R70W Valve Body Kit?

 

[CDW6212R]

I used "Transgo AODE - HD2" as a search field. The 4R70W yield one less result, evidently AODE is part of the main part name. "HD2" is the kit you want, there are two others, an SK kit(the correction kit I mentioned), and an HD3 kit which is about full manual shifting(race).

I see only about $100 as a best deal there. I'll sell this one for $80 shipped, including an installation video. I know I have at least two of those VHS tapes, some of the kits didn't come with them. I'll dig it out and be sure the parts are all there, I did at least go into one bag that has drill bits in it. I noticed that bag open the last time I was in the box.

Here's a link to good searches on eBay. You need the blue book, not the green update book.


Transgo AODE - HD2

ATSG AODE manual

 

[BrianDye]

How does that work though, I seen one kit (first search result) that says "Backshifts to any gear at your command"

But it seems that the kit is just a gasket/springs etc, would there be electronics involved?

 

[BrianDye]

And is this the book I would need?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ATSG...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

 

[CDW6212R]

And is this the book I would need?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ATSG...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

No, get the blue book from the same seller for the same $27. The main blue book will have all of the basic pictures you could need, I think the green update book is aimed at later parts and/or retrofitting. That's a good trans parts source, I've bought a few things from them.

The VB kit is all internal. About 95% of it is in the VB, with a few bigger springs/seals going into accumulators up in the case. To do the work a very good set of snap ring pliers are needed, those accumulators are tough to R&R. Those need a lot of patience and thought, go slow and get good leverage, three hands helps.

 

[sean99]

Is the 4r like the 5r where you should buy a new bonded seperator plate?
The transgo kit for my 5r along with a new epc worked wonders.
At around 90k on the trans, it shifts better than new, with effortless firm shifts.
Should the same results be expected with the 4r kit?

 

[CDW6212R]

Is the 4r like the 5r where you should buy a new bonded seperator plate?
The transgo kit for my 5r along with a new epc worked wonders.
At around 90k on the trans, it shifts better that new, with effortless firm shifts.
Should the same results be expected with the 4r kit?

No, the 5R has those separator gaskets to address a random OEM defect, which the VB kits help. The 5R is even more sensitive to the torque applied to the VB bolts, I think the VB is a little less rigid than the 4R piece. The 4R never had any issues of gaskets blowing out.

The 5R trans only has correction VB kits available, they are all aimed 95% at fixing inherent problems. There is a valve/spring or two in them to raise pressure some, that helps the shifts a lot.

With the 4R because it is a common performance trans(all Mustangs), it has many real shift kits available. Those are aimed at firming the shifts a lot more than a correction kit. That's why the owner needs to be more careful with those in selecting a shift level. Typically a real shift kit will give you at least three levels of shift firmness to choose from. Different sized holes and springs are used for those.

Oh yes Brian, you asked about that "shifts back to any gear at command" etc. That means that you will be more in control, you can force the trans into different gears more easily than stock. I don't suggest doing any manual shifting, that's really more for racing or using the trans to help slow down. For towing that can be helpful to force a lower gear that in stock form you couldn't do. It also means you have to know that the lower gear won't push the engine beyond redline, in stock form it will not down shift until you get well under a speed to risk the engine. For general driving it still is more fun, the trans acts quicker.

 

[BrianDye]

God the snow was fun tonight

How much would someone want to do the "4406" Tcase swap for me? Serious question, if someone was willing to go pull the parts, and install them for me, I would pay for the parts, gas (Prefer you to be local), and labor.

I am really missing 2wd lately for some reason.

 

[BrianDye]

Would this just hook right up with my clusters wiring? And properly function? (As in check engine light means check engine, not airbags or something )
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/EXPL...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Its a cluster from an 01' Sport. Also, how would I go about getting the correct mileage on the ODO?

 

[sport97]

Would this just hook right up with my clusters wiring? And properly function? (As in check engine light means check engine, not airbags or something )
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/EXPL...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Its a cluster from an 01' Sport. Also, how would I go about getting the correct mileage on the ODO?

Not sure if it fits, I think I have seen people do that swap though. I don't believe its possible to change the odo reading. You have to find one close to what you have and just record the difference. I know that would bother me to not have the correct reading.

 

[Joe Dirt]

It will work. As said, the mileage would probably just be recorded. You could pop the needle off the speedo cluster and swap the old one from your truck in there and put the orange needle back on, but the odometer wheels will be black and look funny, especially to someone buying it. I would just record somewhere "odometer swapped with xxxxx miles, new unit had xxxxx miles when installed"

 

[CDW6212R]

Most others have just swapped the faces, the plastic cover, which does require pulling the needles off. That of course affects the accuracy of the speedometer so read up on it first.

Someone here just pulled the 4406 TC out of their truck, and has a thread to sell it all.

 

[my pos mounty]

Thanks for the heads-up Don.
Yes, I am selling the 4406 with everything (well, minus the rear driveshaft yoke) one would need to do the swap.
However shipping something like this is both new to me and would be a giant pain in the arse to do from a third floor apartment in NY City (where I now live).




Brian, read up on the swap in mountaineergreens thread if you are serious.
Excellent write-up with all the details you need. If you read it and take some notes, it would be an easy install with no surprises that you could pull off yourself with the right tools in a day.

 

[BrianDye]

Well im not sure how big stuff like that is shipped either, but if you were willing to get a quote and final price for me, I would definitely be extremely interested in buying it. I love the junkyard, but mine are in no way shape, or form easy undercarriage access. Most of the Expos are sitting on the rotors on dirt/mud.

 

[my pos mounty]

Well im not sure how big stuff like that is shipped either, but if you were willing to get a quote and final price for me, I would definitely be extremely interested in buying it. I love the junkyard, but mine are in no way shape, or form easy undercarriage access. Most of the Expos are sitting on the rotors on dirt/mud.

You could call Glens Car And Truck in Taylor Michigan (a mere 25 miles away from where you are) and pick up the T/case for about what the cost of shipping might run for this one (A whopping $100). Call them @ 1-800-297-9393 and ask about a manual shift transfercase for a 2001 Ford F-150 that they have. It is stock number 105054 and has LESS than 79,000 miles on it. See if the shifting linkage is attached to it (unlikely) or, if they have not removed it from the truck yet, ask them to keep that shifter and the linkage for it. Junkyards typically do not do this since the actual piece that the shifting rod connects to is bolted to the side of the transmission, and since the yard monkey is ripping out the transfercase, he could care less about that chunk of metal on the side of the transmission.
Once you have the t/case, and IF they can not get that piece off the side of the tranny, you could still get that from Tousley Ford for around 80, and the little rod that goes from the linkage piece to the t/case selector is under $10 from Tousley as well I recall paying somewhere around 120 for both pieces shipped to New Hampshire second day air. Now for the shift rod, (the piece that you actually see in the cab) any Ford truck t/case shift rod out of an F-150 in any junkyard will work. Take a leisurely walk around any junkyard and you will find a useable one. Only other thing you would need would be a rear driveshaft yoke. Read the mountaineergreen thread, and I highly suggest spending the $80 or so for a new one to avoid tearing up the rear output seal on the t/case. Try to find the front shaft, and with some u-joints and you are in business.

 

[Joe Dirt]

That's funny... Glen's is about 3 miles from where I grew up in Taylor-tucky

 

[BrianDye]

Taylor-tucky? I spent most of my michigan life up in Waltucky

(Walled Lake)