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BD's 2000 Explorer Limited
- Thread starter BrianDye
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BrianDye
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Are squeaky belts a common occurrence on our trucks? My 95 would do it randomly, and now mines doing it. Sometimes not at all, and other times sounds like a birds chirping under the hood. I replaced my tensioner on the 95 thinking that was the problem but it didn't help at all.
Joe Dirt
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Just a couple of sprays on the belt works fine. You can even use glass cleaner... Just to dampen the belt where it contacts the pulleys is all you're doing. Mine quieted for about 3 seconds after 3-4 sprays with glass cleaner, then came back, when the belt was shot.
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With plenty of mileage it's best to replace the belt and all of the pulleys that you can which have bearings. I think there are three pulleys on the 302 trucks to do. The bearings don't last much longer than the belts, and they aren't that high.
Good progress Brian.
Good progress Brian.
BrianDye
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Bad news guys 
I noticed about a week or two ago when I would be doing about 35-40 or so, and give it a small ammount of gas (Enough to get up to like 45-50 without downshifting), I could feel the truck pretty much "thumping" lightly, which I found out to be it slightly slipping. I knew that wasnt gonna get better, and now 1st gear slips SLIGHTLY if I stomp on it. Not any driveability issues but im not gonna let it get any worse, I went to the local trans shop (Very good rep), and they quoted me $1250 WORST CASE, as in replacing EVERYTHING in the trans. He said he gets Explorers in left and right doing the same thing. So I just gotta find someone who will let me borrow theyre car for 4 days so I can get to school and work.
I noticed about a week or two ago when I would be doing about 35-40 or so, and give it a small ammount of gas (Enough to get up to like 45-50 without downshifting), I could feel the truck pretty much "thumping" lightly, which I found out to be it slightly slipping. I knew that wasnt gonna get better, and now 1st gear slips SLIGHTLY if I stomp on it. Not any driveability issues but im not gonna let it get any worse, I went to the local trans shop (Very good rep), and they quoted me $1250 WORST CASE, as in replacing EVERYTHING in the trans. He said he gets Explorers in left and right doing the same thing. So I just gotta find someone who will let me borrow theyre car for 4 days so I can get to school and work.
BrianDye
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Wow, I ordered these ballasts 3 days ago from Xentec on eBay, $10, free shipping, completely waterproof and only like a .02% failure rate. Got them today, theyre smaller than buisness cards!
I ordered 5000k H1 bulbs for $10 also, but I ordered them 2 days ago so they should be here tomorrow or something. I really want to order my headlights but with christmas coming up, along with a 1200$ trans rebuild, im not sure yet.
I ordered 5000k H1 bulbs for $10 also, but I ordered them 2 days ago so they should be here tomorrow or something. I really want to order my headlights but with christmas coming up, along with a 1200$ trans rebuild, im not sure yet.
sean99
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Bad news guys
He said he gets Explorers in left and right doing the same thing. So I just gotta find someone who will let me borrow theyre car for 4 days so I can get to school and work.
The 4r70w is a pretty good transmission. He is probably talking about the 5r55e transmission. What did he say the thumping was?
BrianDye
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It just feels like a thump, but its just the slipping I guess.
Thats what I always thought too that the V8s had the real good tranny, but I made sure he knew it was the V8.
Thats what I always thought too that the V8s had the real good tranny, but I made sure he knew it was the V8.
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All of the Ford automatics can benefit a bunch from an aftermarket valve body kit. A trans rebuild never includes any VB kit, so do that first. Many times little symptoms that end up killing a trans can be fixed with a VB kit and replacing a couple of solenoids. I'd do that first and see how it does. If it doesn't fix it then after rebuilt you still get the benefits of the modifications.
The 4R70W is very strong, the most likely to survive 200k+ without any work, fluid etc. But the EPC solenoid should be replaced about every 60k miles, to reduce wear of the EPC bore(which is in the case). The 4R EPC is not too high, $50-60 depending on which brand you get. For a rebuild I'd replace all solenoids, but for a tune up the EPC is wise to do for sure.
If you never radically raise the power, then the TransGo kit is very good. It gives the best manners at off throttle use, which is 99% of the time. For WOT you get the great firm shifts, tailored by your choice of levels when the VB kit is installed.
The other brands will help, but most have no improvements at part throttle, or not nearly as good as TransGo. For big power gains(400+), the TransGo should be avoided, then the VB needs to be swapped for a car VB, and a "Jerry's Mod" put in.
You can do the VB kit and EPC for under $200 with fluid and filter, think about doing that before a rebuild.
The 4R70W is very strong, the most likely to survive 200k+ without any work, fluid etc. But the EPC solenoid should be replaced about every 60k miles, to reduce wear of the EPC bore(which is in the case). The 4R EPC is not too high, $50-60 depending on which brand you get. For a rebuild I'd replace all solenoids, but for a tune up the EPC is wise to do for sure.
If you never radically raise the power, then the TransGo kit is very good. It gives the best manners at off throttle use, which is 99% of the time. For WOT you get the great firm shifts, tailored by your choice of levels when the VB kit is installed.
The other brands will help, but most have no improvements at part throttle, or not nearly as good as TransGo. For big power gains(400+), the TransGo should be avoided, then the VB needs to be swapped for a car VB, and a "Jerry's Mod" put in.
You can do the VB kit and EPC for under $200 with fluid and filter, think about doing that before a rebuild.
sean99
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Is ok to use the Transgo kit to firm the shifts, along with a tune from Henson which also firms the shifts?
What Transgo kit is needed and is there a good thread for installation?
BrianDye
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I dont have many performance plans besides TM headers, a hensen tune, and a mac (or simaler) intake.
How do the valve body kits work? I have bare minimum basic tools, and no garage now so if that involves dropping the trans or something thats a no-go for me. Would it be smart to buy it and have the shop install it for me?
How do the valve body kits work? I have bare minimum basic tools, and no garage now so if that involves dropping the trans or something thats a no-go for me. Would it be smart to buy it and have the shop install it for me?
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I would find a shop willing to do the VB kit then. Some don't like any kits, so ask first to find a place that knows how they work.
Any of the kits and the PCM tuning like James does, they are compatible. But don;t do the tune and then the VB kit, do the kit first. James improves shifting a lot by raising pressures with the PCM. Most of the kits also raise pressure a little, so you'd prefer to do the internal modification first. The PCM tune is easier to adjust, and James would rather do it once so try to do VB kits early on.
I don't know if there is a thread here for a VB kit in our 4R trans, I doubt it. There are several about the 5R or A4LD, the V6 models. The intricate details are important to be able to follow along with a good manual. Don't rely on just the instructions, which are very good. Have a thin basic manual also, like the ATSG version for your trans. It helps a bunch with more pictures and details of the whole trans inside.
The VB bolts have to be torqued in place, any miss-tightening of them will cause issues. I use a cheap $25 1/4" torque wrench which works great.
I think the good best 4R VB kits are about $100, and I've seen the TransGo version for $85 or so on eBay. I got mine there, yet may not use it if I don't think of another 4R to need it here. Regards,
Any of the kits and the PCM tuning like James does, they are compatible. But don;t do the tune and then the VB kit, do the kit first. James improves shifting a lot by raising pressures with the PCM. Most of the kits also raise pressure a little, so you'd prefer to do the internal modification first. The PCM tune is easier to adjust, and James would rather do it once so try to do VB kits early on.
I don't know if there is a thread here for a VB kit in our 4R trans, I doubt it. There are several about the 5R or A4LD, the V6 models. The intricate details are important to be able to follow along with a good manual. Don't rely on just the instructions, which are very good. Have a thin basic manual also, like the ATSG version for your trans. It helps a bunch with more pictures and details of the whole trans inside.
The VB bolts have to be torqued in place, any miss-tightening of them will cause issues. I use a cheap $25 1/4" torque wrench which works great.
I think the good best 4R VB kits are about $100, and I've seen the TransGo version for $85 or so on eBay. I got mine there, yet may not use it if I don't think of another 4R to need it here. Regards,
BrianDye
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Well thank you man for all the info, I was finding some YouTube videos on installing them last night, it seems a little tricky for me, now if I had a garage, proper tools, etc I would probably go for it myself. Ill give Doug a call (Trans guy) and ask him about it.
What exactly does it do? You said they firm the shifts? Wouldnt harder shifts lessen the life of the tranny from causing more wear?
What exactly does it do? You said they firm the shifts? Wouldnt harder shifts lessen the life of the tranny from causing more wear?
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Ford is really bad about making new transmissions and not discovering all of the quirks from various conditions. Over time they end up slipping shifts and/or delaying them, plus not being timed the best for a given pedal input.
You would be amazed by the improvement and fun of driving an automatic which responsively shifts when you'd want it to, at any given pedal you use. Think of any time you get on a highway from a side road or on ramp, and wish the vehicle would be in a lower gear sooner or with less throttle than you use. That's what you get with a TransGo kit, it reacts far better than stock, plus correcting inherent issues, which often require a rebuild before parts are actually worn out.
The softer a shift feels, the more slippage is occurring. Slipping creates a smooth shift. The quicker a shift happens, the less wear(slipping) there is, and it feels firmer. You should want as quick of a shift as possible, up to the point where you don't like the firmness.
Most of the real TransGo shift kits came with a video tape, I haven't bought one in years. I generally prefer the firmest choice a kit offers. If you are not sure how you would like it, select the level just below the firmest. That typically is never to harsh for anyone.
Most auto trans internal friction parts will last 200-300k easily. What typically causes a rebuild is not those parts wearing out. It's virtually always other parts causing slippage of those frictions. Once there is too much slippage, those frictions wear out really really fast, in miles or days. The VB is the big controller, and the electrical solenoids don't last as long as the frictions. So those can be improved without R&Ring the trans. I usually do that with any newly purchased Ford. My Mountaineer is my one exception, I never touched it because I planned to make a swap shortly. Now I've added 75k to it and that it's a good 4R has kept it running.
If you find a local shop that you trust to do install it right, I'll sell you my kit I still have. I could use the money more than the spare part at the moment. Regards,
You would be amazed by the improvement and fun of driving an automatic which responsively shifts when you'd want it to, at any given pedal you use. Think of any time you get on a highway from a side road or on ramp, and wish the vehicle would be in a lower gear sooner or with less throttle than you use. That's what you get with a TransGo kit, it reacts far better than stock, plus correcting inherent issues, which often require a rebuild before parts are actually worn out.
The softer a shift feels, the more slippage is occurring. Slipping creates a smooth shift. The quicker a shift happens, the less wear(slipping) there is, and it feels firmer. You should want as quick of a shift as possible, up to the point where you don't like the firmness.
Most of the real TransGo shift kits came with a video tape, I haven't bought one in years. I generally prefer the firmest choice a kit offers. If you are not sure how you would like it, select the level just below the firmest. That typically is never to harsh for anyone.
Most auto trans internal friction parts will last 200-300k easily. What typically causes a rebuild is not those parts wearing out. It's virtually always other parts causing slippage of those frictions. Once there is too much slippage, those frictions wear out really really fast, in miles or days. The VB is the big controller, and the electrical solenoids don't last as long as the frictions. So those can be improved without R&Ring the trans. I usually do that with any newly purchased Ford. My Mountaineer is my one exception, I never touched it because I planned to make a swap shortly. Now I've added 75k to it and that it's a good 4R has kept it running.
If you find a local shop that you trust to do install it right, I'll sell you my kit I still have. I could use the money more than the spare part at the moment. Regards,
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BrianDye
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That sounds great man, when you said firmer shifts, I was thinking of it like slamming into gear like it does when its in limp mode.
I would be happy to buy that kit off you, lets say I (Or someone else) installs it, and I still notice slipping (Same things its doing), when I go to get the trans rebuilt, will that stay on there (I probably sound stupid), a better way I think would be would they rip it off thinking its stock when they rebuild it?
I would be happy to buy that kit off you, lets say I (Or someone else) installs it, and I still notice slipping (Same things its doing), when I go to get the trans rebuilt, will that stay on there (I probably sound stupid), a better way I think would be would they rip it off thinking its stock when they rebuild it?
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