BD's 2000 Explorer Limited

[sport97]

^ That's a cool idea. I haven't seen anyone else do it yet.

 

[lynchy wa]

Do you still need a key or code or something to enable the button? (forgive my ignorance, sort of like the electric start on a motorcycle?)

 

[BrianDye]

Yea this is just a basic push button start, its not worth it to me for the full expensive keless ystem, and having to take apart the steering column to take the wheel lock out.

(Turn key push button is what I'm doing)

 

[BrianDye]

Can anyone confirm the idnition wireis th red/light blue one? Bulldog security website lists our explorer as 95-01 I'm sure there had to be different wire colors in those years.

 

[CDW6212R]

That sounds right, the ignition wire colors are about the same for all Fords.

 

[BrianDye]

Well thats good, it just makes me weary when the years are wrong on websites (Bulldog has Explorers back all the way to like '88 I think lol, and theres another thread going around about BallJoint Spacers and the kit says 01-05 Ranger EDGE/Explorer and I chimed in and said id be careful buying that (For theyre 3rd gens) and then someone noticed a spot for the 2ND GEN torsion bars)

 

[CDW6212R]

I saw that also, parts sources don't always make sure their parts listings are correct. We have to double check those when we buy something.

 

[BrianDye]

Yea ive noticed that alot lately; thats just unprofessional to me. Kind of a "turn-and-walk-away" situation IMO.

 

[BrianDye]

I bet this is the first used '11 Explorer already for sale
http://detroit.craigslist.org/mcb/ctd/2291344539.html

Its so damn nice! I wonder what one of those would run me a month :

 

[BrianDye]

Hey Don, a little more off topic, but ive been researching about installing an electric fan. I seen a few posts from you saying you havent swapped one in your 5.0 yet, from like back in 2008. Did you ever swap one in?

Im about ready to head to the JY and grab a couple 3.8 Taurus fans, but what confuses me is the controller, and removing my stock fan and whatnot.

 

[CDW6212R]

I bought a Flexlite 188 or 185 fan, the thin version with no controller. I have a new radiator and was going to install them like CobraXP(?) did.

I also have a Taurus and Mark VII fan, I got those first before removing the stock fan. Those cannot work, the motor alone is too long. The space for the 302 is about 3.5" barely. I'll sell these most likely unless I get around to doing my Mark VII also.

FYI, for pulling the OEM fan, go to O'Reilly's for the tool to rent. I tried the Autozone and Advance Auto tools, those didn't have the right tool to hold the water pump. The brand that O'Reilly's uses had both correct sizes.

If you go that route, pay good money for a high end controller. You don't want the fan to ever not get power, or to pull so much that it taxes the alternator or switches/relays. There are three good brands I think, DCC, SPAL, and Flexlite, for slow turning on of the fan. Install really good main wiring to them, grounds and circuit protection. It needs to be good enough for any weather, washing, high heat, long life etc. Most people install low quality support parts for those, cheap wiring, switches, relays etc. Take your time on that stuff to be sure it will last for a long time.

 

[BrianDye]

Thanks for that info, but god no, I could never skimp on wiring the fan! Its not like you can just keep driving home without it!

Its definitely gonna be a summer project though. Correct me if im wrong, but you didnt install the fan (yet)?

 

[BrianDye]

Im new to the relay world (Still working on my PB start), I need a relay thats big enough to power my starter.

My PB goes to a relay box. The box has a + and - wire to power the LEDs in the switch, and control the relay. Theres 2 more wires, input and output. One is a power in, the other is power out. THeyre only like 16 gauge, so thats WAY to damn small for the starter.

What im gonna do it wire up a big enough relay to the starter like id hook up the PB switch, then run the switch to the relay.

Im just curious as to where I would get a relay, and how many amps would it have to be? Or is my whole idea stupid and not possible :

 

[BrianDye]

Trans for 470 shipped

I just called some local shops, in hopes of hearing 250-300$ to swap it out, a decent shop wanted 650$ I just about cussed at the guy when he said that! (Not that its his fault)

A smaller mom & pop type shop wanted 500$

WTF! Im so pissed off right now! If I can find some kind of write up, im definitely doing this thing my GD self. (W/ friends)

 

[sport97]

Trans for 470 shipped

I just called some local shops, in hopes of hearing 250-300$ to swap it out, a decent shop wanted 650$ I just about cussed at the guy when he said that! (Not that its his fault)

A smaller mom & pop type shop wanted 500$

WTF! Im so pissed off right now! If I can find some kind of write up, im definitely doing this thing my GD self. (W/ friends)

If you can do it yourself go for it, that's a good bit of cash to keep in the wallet. But even if you have to pay that isnt a bad deal over all, 970 bucks for a rebuilt/install. Plus you still have a core. My dad just paid 2k for a total rebuild and install for the trans on his 00' chevy 2wd

 

[BrianDye]

I know its alot better than the "drop my X off and come back in a week" rebuild which was 1400$ (Estimate), plus you do make a good point, I have a core to work with.

I just cant afford that right now, I was hoping it would be half of what theyre asking. Im trying to convince my friend to help me, I told him id pay him probably 100 or 150$

Gharmon said all he did special was remove the tcase when installing it for the extra room.


The starter is bolted to the trans too right? Im really wanting to replace that also, mine is really weird, sometimes it will crank once like my battery is dead (Cranks like normal, then one or 2 REALLY slow cranks)

 

[CDW6212R]

That push button switch I would think is designed to go in the circuit where the existing starter wiring is. Meaning you would power the existing starter wire under the dash.

You have the instructions, do they say to cut the dash starter wire, or otherwise disable the start circuit of the key switch? You could make the PB work alone or still be able to use the key switch to start it.

You don't need another starter relay, at most a diode or remote starter "T" harness.

 

[BrianDye]

I know, but the starter wire is so thick of a gauge, probably 10 or 8, whereas this switches relay box is a 16gauge wire. It says to splice the 2 wires into the power wire and ignition wire (starter)

 

[CDW6212R]

Ah, right, the key cylinder operates the ignition switch, which has full sized wires coming from it.

I would not cut the factory wires, I think that's what you are telling me it says to do. Don't cut those, they are really important and you wouldn't be able to fix them after cutting them. That sounds like a horrible method to add the PB feature, damaging the stock critical power wires.

I suggest adding a relay to have the PB switch control the power for. Leave the stock wiring uncut in the dash.

The modern Fords now have full power going to the starter, and a secondary power wire going to the starter solenoid on it. That secondary power wire doesn't need the capacity of a typical starter relay. You can use a normal kind of relay for that, either a parts store 20-30 amp relay, or the OEM relays under the hood.

That PB switch sounds like they meant for it to take the full power through it to feed the starter solenoid. I wouldn't do that, keep it a low power circuit and run just the little power it takes to trigger another relay that you add.

You can use any normal small power wire to connect to the PB switch, back to the new added relay. I'd find a smaller ignition power wire in the dash, besides the main 10 gauge power wires.

If you just add a new power wire at the starter solenoid, the stock key switch will still power the starter. You'd have to remove the stock wire from the starter to stop the key from working. You have options to do it many ways.

 

[BrianDye]

It says splice into them :

Yea, the key will still work, which is fine, so your basically saying wire up a power wire from the battery, to a relay, to the solenoid? And then use my button to "activate the relay"