Bkennedy's SAS and Rebuild Thread

As some of you know, I am working on building a parts list for a shortened Dana 44, long radius arm with coil overs SAS. 5:13 gears to match my rear axle and an ARB, maybe an electric locker. I have a pretty good list so far. At the same time, I am going to swap out the rear drum brakes for discs off of a 99 Explorer.

Please note: The plan is to keep this project as simple as possible with mostly off the shelf parts. I am not a fabricator, just a decent welder with a what I would consider the minimum required tools (chop saw, cut off wheels, air tools, welder, etc.), who likes doing his own work. Your opinions are welcome, but what I really need is technical advice. I have been thinking about this for several years and now have the time and cash to make it happen. Please keep on topic with your advice and don't go off on a side track about how you would do it as a four-link, or caged arms, or leave the axle full-width because that is not what I want. I want a simple-ish set up that works.

 

[Stic-o]

Instructions? I never use those, I also always have left over parts. I just know how to make things more efficient then the original creator.

Keep up the good work sir.

 

[Rick]

You know I never know what to set the multi meter to for different things, but with HF giving them away, I can just have one for each application

There is even a relaxation mode... When you want to relax you set it to ohm....

 

[tdavis]

I say his new nickname is Disco..

 

[BKennedy]

I say his new nickname is Disco..

No, No and NO!

There is no rotating mirrored ball, there are no colored lights, and no disco has ever been played on the sound system.

 

[josh40601]

no disco has ever been played on the sound system.

well that's just sad

Lights are *****in buddy. I wonder if they are waterproof, they would be awesome ran down the bedsides of the ranger. They would also be really useful in the deaf machine too since there is 0 lighting inside of it now outside of the dash, and only half of those work. hahaha

 

[BKennedy]

The package said they are waterproof, but I would seal the wire connectors if I was going to have them outside. I used about 12 feet of the five meter strip as near as I could figure. They are bright for what they are. I have been thinking of ordering a LED power converter and running them along the rafters of my patio.

For in the cab, I would get some pre-wired cob type LED lights, like …
6x Super Bright COB White Car LED Lights for DRL Fog Driving Lamp Waterproof 12V 7625744912933 | eBay

I have used them for back-up lights, cargo lights in the horse trailer, and rock lights, and Rick has a few inside the Pumpkin for dome lights. Before I found the light strips, I was going to use two or four of these in the cargo area. I have four of them stuck to the underside of the body as rock lights, along with 10 or 12 of the eagle eye single LED lights, and they were underwater when I crossed the Mojave River. They are still stuck, and still work.

 

[Spudhut]

How did I miss these additions? An absolute great addition to the back of your Ex. Love the containers and the lighting. The table setup around the hatch opening is well thought.

Great work on the storage containers and floor mounts.

 

[BKennedy]

Yesterday, I was looking at my nice and clean Explorer and did not like the carpet covered dog rest in front of the back seat. Its so Sasha the Wonder Dog can rest her head through the cross support for the cage B pillar, and helps her fit with people in the back seat. It did not match the décor. I covered it with the same carpet material as the cargo area shelf project over two layers of batting. Much better. I might replace the batting with foam that wraps around the edges to help it lock into place, but then would have to purchase another piece of carpet as I used the last bit on this. I think its fine for now.

I also rearranged items stored under the back seat so I can easily fold down the 40 side of the 60/40 seat and access the hidden storage, which I figured out will nicely fit two AR type rifles in tacticool cases.

 

[BKennedy]

Took the Explorer out for a drive yesterday to get it out of the garage. I still really like the Radflo shocks and how they adjust dampening for road conditions. When I start out on a winding road I get a lot of body roll, but after 5 or 6 corners it goes away completely.

I did notice something odd with the auxiliary battery. The main battery charges at 14.2 volts with the engine running. For the first 20 minutes or so of driving, the auxiliary battery charged at 13.6-13.8, then went up to 14.1 where it usually charges. I have no explanation. Any ideas?

 

[BKennedy]

More on the battery charging; The auxiliary battery cable (2 gauge welding wire) runs from main battery, through a 200 amp manual reset breaker to a solenoid that is activated with the key in run only. From solenoid it goes to a post where the auxiliary fuse panel and some other accessories connect. Then, 2 gauge welding wire to the back of the Explorer, through a 400 amp megafuse and another 200 amp manual reset breaker a few feet before connecting to the battery. I will pull the section of cable I can't see where it goes past the gas tank and look for damage, and check all the connections and report back.

And, Tom, I got this book

 

[BKennedy]

I traced the auxiliary battery wiring its entire length today. All connections are tight, and no wear or damage to the wire. The voltage irregularity is a mystery. Maybe its one of the manual reset breakers. I noticed the front breaker didn't like to function when it was 26* while on the Mojave Trail. I had to reset it two of the coldest mornings for it to allow the alternator to charge the auxiliary battery.

Ever since I installed the Radflo shocks, I have thought it is too high in the front. Today, I cranked the spanner nuts up 3/8", which dropped the front so it looks like it did pre-Radflo's. It doesn't sound like much, but its very noticeable to me. Also found out the high pitched squeak in the left shock was coming from the spring stop nuts because they were loose.

 

[Rick]

Yesterday, I was looking at my nice and clean Explorer and did not like the carpet covered dog rest in front of the back seat. Its so Sasha the Wonder Dog can rest her head through the cross support for the cage B pillar, and helps her fit with people in the back seat. It did not match the décor. I covered it with the same carpet material as the cargo area shelf project over two layers of batting. Much better. I might replace the batting with foam that wraps around the edges to help it lock into place, but then would have to purchase another piece of carpet as I used the last bit on this. I think its fine for now.
View attachment 161809

View attachment 161810

I never noticed that before. That's a cool platform for Sasha.

 

[Rick]

on the ham license study guide.

 

[BKennedy]

I was sitting in the wife's car today while she went into the store "for a minute" which turned into 45 so far. I noticed even this car had a dead pedal and always wanted to fab one for my Explorer to fit tight against the kick panel under the e-brake pedal. Anyone made one?

 

[BKennedy]

Anyone else do this? Constantly adjust things that seem to work fine? I took the Explorer out for a drive yesterday and noticed it not only sits lower in the front, but also the rear. When I adjusted the coil over shocks to lower the front, it also lowered the rear. Must be a well balanced suspension. I put it back up to its former height today because I noticed is also rode harsher and the steering seemed a little more sensitive. Besides, it didn't feel right. Part of that is due to the play in the two-year old steering box. I tightened the set screw about a half turn and it took some play out, but I need to replace the box, again. Its not the linkages because the play is there before the pitman starts moving. I thought about swapping the rebuilt box out for the one I pulled from the donor because I didn't notice any play, but its 24 years old and covered in gunk.

I like the looks from the neighbors when they drive by and see the Explorer sitting like this;

They don't get it, and think its broken. Nope, just flexy.

 

[Spudhut]

What steering box do you have in it? Stock?

 

[BKennedy]

What steering box do you have in it? Stock?

Its a rebuilt OEM from Auto Zone with a lifetime warranty. I had one for ten years, then the last two have lasted about two years each before they start to get a lot of play. Last time I replaced it they only had two in stock, so I could not go through a bunch and pick the one with the least play.

Some of the play in the steering is due to the heim joints with the drag link mounted to a saddle on the tie rod. When the tie rod rolls, it pushes the saddle over, causing a dead spot. I emailed Ruff Stuff today to see if they have a cure for that, like they have for tie-rod end roll.

 

[R.J.]

Have you thought about the redhead steering box? It supposed help the factory slop a lot. I might do it someday.

 

[BKennedy]

https://redheadsteeringgears.com/product/1980-97-ford-f-series-with-2-bolt-top-cover/

$266.00, plus $100 core, plus shipping = a lot of lifetime POS boxes.

If I get tired of replacing the boxes, I might do that.

 

[R.J.]

https://redheadsteeringgears.com/product/1980-97-ford-f-series-with-2-bolt-top-cover/

$266.00, plus $100 core, plus shipping = a lot of lifetime POS boxes.

If I get tired of replacing the boxes, I might do that.

I know . But the point would be to have a steering box that isn't a POS.

Another thing to think about is do you plan to run hydro assist in the future?