Bkennedy's SAS and Rebuild Thread

[BKennedy]

I spent several hours over the past week trying to make a front cross brace for a transmission skid plate. The rear mount would be the trans cross member. It has to be roughly between the engine and trans. It would end up being one big trans / t-case skid plate in two parts. The problem is, the exhaust is in the way. The exhaust Y-pipe and where it ties into the main pipe is hanging down and causing me fits. It could be moved up a few inches, which should give me enough room for the cross brace / skid plate, and keep the front drive shaft from touching it occasionally. Looks like the easiest way to accomplish that, is to replace the pipes between the exhaust manifolds and the cat converter.
If I replace the pipe, will if effect the O2 sensors? I know I have to weld in new bungs for them, but does it matter how far from the engine they are located?

And, is there any big mystery to exhaust pipe welding?

Maybe I should just find a local muffler shop.

Another work in progress. Noticed the engine seems to move more that it should. No wonder since I still have the original mounts. I ordered new motor mounts from Rock Auto. Removed the rivets and replaced them with bolts and lock nuts (thanks Kirby). I will get them in next week or so and see how they work.

 

[turboexplorer]

Shouldn't matter. The biggest part is make sure it's depth in the pipe is the same. Keeping the length from manifold as close to factory length will make it easy so all the O2 pigtails reach without having to extend any wires.

 

[BKennedy]

Shouldn't matter. The biggest part is make sure it's depth in the pipe is the same. Keeping the length from manifold as close to factory length will make it easy so all the O2 pigtails reach without having to extend any wires.

Okay, thanks. If I shorten the distance from the O2's to the manifold it won't have any effect.

 

[Kirby N.]

Another work in progress. Noticed the engine seems to move more that it should. No wonder since I still have the original mounts. I ordered new motor mounts from Rock Auto. Removed the rivets and replaced them with bolts and lock nuts (thanks Kirby). I will get them in next week or so and see how they work.

You're welcome. Worked good eh? Fixed mine with the doubler.

My bro made a straight pipe bypassing the muffler but he threw codes. I think it was because the o2 stuck further into the pipe like turbo said.

Welding exhaust can be challenge to weld because it is thin and it can be hard to get clean due to rust/ galvanizing. If you have a wire feed or a mig it shouldn't be too bad tho. A mig is nice because you can stitch it without having to clean the slag off every stitch.

 

[sirhk100]

Not totally sure on the o2 location info. I'd imagine depth would somewhat matter and I think I'd just try to keep them as close to the engine as you can within reason personally. Our older expos have VERY lame brain basic PCMs/computers.

Every exhaust I've worked around has welded great with just a simple mig welder. Hardest part is getting around the top and getting it fully sealed. Is it just me that feels the best exhaust guys also happen to be tweakers? Maybe it's just my experience but that's just what it sure seems like to me.

In regards to the engine moving too much, genuine question... What makes you think that and what in your opinion is too much. Reason I'm asking is earlier this week I saw this video clip. It's Geoff Falzone's bronco and he owns giant motorsports. He's been a whos who in the building of very nice race trucks and prerunners for ever. He's got a pretty legit race resume both as builder and driver and owner. I saw this video clip and thought, wow, that motor moves more then I'd think you'd want, yet knowing who owns the bronco, he must feel it's acceptable and the dude probably has more dirt miles then this whole thread's contributors combined. So... What's too much in your opinion and how do you know it? Seriously asking cause, well... Watch this and notice the motor movement.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EwE8SQYIMjM

 

[Kirby N.]

I knew mine was moving too much when my truck began overheating due to poor fan shroud alignment. Before I knew it I was on hells revenge with a jack re stabbing the motor mounts with someone's cheeseball hydraulic jack and chaining the drivers side down because the mounts came apart and the whole motor was sitting crooked in the wrong spot. I replaced mine with stock mounts only to have them come apart again. There is a rivet type thing in them that keeps them from over extending the rubber, but when it comes apart, the mounts are toast. So I replaced the rivet with a grade 8 bolt.

 

[BKennedy]

In regards to the engine moving too much, genuine question... What makes you think that and what in your opinion is too much. Seriously asking cause, well... Watch this and notice the motor movement.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EwE8SQYIMjM

With the engine running, trans in park in the garage, I can hit the throttle and it twists more than that engine moves in the whoops. I was reading the video description and it did not mention anything about engine mounts, just bolt-on suspension upgrades.

I wish someone other that Autofab would make motor mounts for the 4.0. You would think there would be a market with all the glass body Rangers running around town. I am going to try the modified OEM mounts for now because I can't justify $240 when I spent a total of $33 with shipping for OEM, including the rivet replacing grade 8 bolts. Maybe in the middle of summer, when the Explorer is not in use, I will pull the mounts and brackets and fab up a set of mounts.

Another bonus to a SAS; motor mount accessibility. You can look through the shock hoops and see the top bolts for the mounts, and there is no TTB in the way of the bottom bolts.


Or maybe, someone with a plasma table could design a DIY kit???????

I am a little disappointed with Rock Auto. My first purchase with them and they sent me motor mounts by two different manufactures. Both boxes were from Anchor, but the mounts were clearly from different manufactures. Different finish, quality, bottom plates, different style rivets, one wrapped in plastic, the other just thrown in the box, etc. You can see the "Made in Taiwan" sticker on the shiny one in the pic. They are not worth sending back, but I am disappointed. I had already cut the rivet off the satin finished mount (left in pic) when I pulled the other out of the box, or I might have sent them back.

 

[sirhk100]

Yes, that video actually was him just showing the suspension on the bronco. The bronco is nothing special, I just happened to notice how much the engine was moving around and thought wow, I'd think Falzone would do something about that if it really was an issue. He's gotta see it...

Or maybe, someone with a plasma table could design a DIY kit???????

What are you reading my mind here or something?

On our race truck, toyota so don't get all crazy excited, I bought some really nice aftermarket motormounts that were "supposed" to be exact stock replacements. Turns out they weren't they lowered the motor which is fine on most vehicles but not ours. So I had to cut them up and build new ones. When I did I fixtured off the factory stock ones, used some of their parts, made some of my parts and then made what I needed and still have the fixture for any future needs.

So point being... Hmmmmmmmmmm, you're right, maybe someone does need to look into this considering this is literally the 3rd time this week I've seen someone on this forum mention the "wish" for someone making a decent priced motor mount setup for these. I may do a bit of research this week and see what kind of sales case I could make for justifying the investment... I've been looking for a way to maybe get a couple easy side products going out of my garage not as a full time job but as a way to kinda pad my pockets a bit here and there.

 

[BKennedy]

If I had a shop, I would be fabricating a set soon. Maybe an entire engine cross brace that was removable with the engine mounts built in to the part that stays on the frame. It would give my HP axle more room for up travel without effecting ride height, be stronger, and you could remove the center section to service the bottom half of the engine.

 

[RockRanger]

Or maybe, someone with a plasma table could design a DIY kit???????

I have been planning on it just have not had time to do it yet. If you send me some cardboard cad I can draw them up from that and cut them for you.

 

[BKennedy]

Got the motor mounts changed out in about two hours today. Needed to remove the intake, fan shroud, and shock hoop cross brace to get the engine up high enough to get the mounts out / in. Went fairly smooth. Engine does not move nearly as much now. Old mount rivets were loose and on the driver side mount the rubber was cracked.

If anyone is changing out mounts soon, do yourself a favor and round off the stud and post heads of the new mounts before installing. It makes it a lot easier to get in the mounting holes.

 

[BKennedy]

Today was interesting. I pulled the Explorer out of the garage to give it a wash, then take it to the muffler shop and the beach so the dog could go for a run. I noticed trans fluid leaking out all over the driveway, pulled it back in the garage. Does not leak much when in park. Leaking around the fitting for the pressure gauge sensor. Drained fluid, got wrench on the sensor and the brass 90* fitting broke off with the threads inside the trans housing. I actually said sh%t!! Seems that when I changed out the motor mounts, I was careful not to touch the trans line fittings on the trans hump, but forgot about the sensor on the other side. Spent the better part of two hours trying to get the threads out of the housing. I tried all the old tricks, but nothing worked.

Then, like a message from beyond, I remembered that when a old friend of mine passed, his wife gave me a tool box with a bunch of old taps, dies, easy outs, files and old school hand made trans tools (Jay was a trans man from way back). The one spiral easy out in the box fit inside the broken off fitting. Just when I thought I was going to have to stop and drop the trans to get more room to work, because I was afraid of breaking off the easy out in the housing, it let go and came right out. Thanks Jay!!

I have now clearanced the heck out of the trans hump on the sensor side to give it more wiggle room. Besides, it was fun beating on the Explorer with a BFH. What a relief to not have to drop the transmission. A $5 fitting could have cost me a weeks worth of time.

 

[sirhk100]

Had virtually the EXACT same deal happen to me about 3 weeks ago in aluminum heads on a BRAND NEW LS motor. When the ez-out gripped and spun it out, I almost thru a party I was so happy! Gotta love with dumb mistakes like that work out to be just a hiccup rather then major project!

 

[Rick]

Pheww, I'm glad you were able to get that sucker out of there. Thank's Jay

 

[BKennedy]

Funny, I just cracked a beer, opened the computer and there it was; Cheers.

I just wish I had remembered the tool box full of goodies before I spent two hours trying to wish it out. Got the new fitting today, will put it all back together tomorrow. It needs to go for a drive.

On another issue, I have been fighting a slight lean to the driver side since I did the SAS. I noticed it before the SAS, but now its more pronounced (1/2-3/4" low on driver side). I think it might be my franken leaf springs, since I don't remember a lean before I made them. All the suspension in the front is just making it more obvious. I tried to adjust it out by cranking down the coils on the driver side, but it did not do much, which also makes me think its the leaf springs. I am going to move the right leaf to the left and vice-versa and see if that helps.

 

[turboexplorer]

Mine does that to. It's about 3/4" if you get in or out of the drivers seat. But if you bounce the rig in the center from front and rear it is about 3/8" diff. I know my leafs are tired. But my battery, fuel tank, t-case etc is all on the left of the truck so bet some of that will always be there due to all those heavy objects on 1 side.

 

[BKennedy]

It never ends with this dang Explorer. I got the trans all fixed up, and was running the engine, shifting gears, etc., to check the fluid level when I pulled on the steering wheel. Heard and felt a clunk when turned to the right. Back and forth several times, same clunk. Thought maybe the steering gear box bolts might have loosened up. Went to tighten them and the top-rear bolt turned easily. Housing is totally stripped. What you think might have caused this? When I plated the frame for the SAS, I made sure the bolts were long enough to extend past the threaded portion of the housing, and they were tight. It turns easier now with the SAS than the old suspension, so I don't think there is any added pressure on the box.

Now I have to find the parts store where I purchased the replacement box many years ago with a lifetime warranty.

Edit; Can't find the parts store where I purchased the replacement box. Thinking about pulling the box and installing a heli-coil in all three mounting locations.

 

[BKennedy]

I have been doing some thinking about the stripped bolt housing. I used the steering gear box bolts to center the 3/16" thick plate so when I welded it to the frame I could have as small of holes as possible. Then I tightened the bolts up after it was all welded. I did a bunch of welding around the one bolt housing that stripped when I fab'd up the pitman arm mount. Then I redid the mount, leaving the existing metal plate there and adding more. The bolt is actually inside the mount with a hole cut in the face for access. I am thinking maybe with all the welding there, the plates and frame expanded and contracted and weakened the threads enough that they finally pulled through. Heli-coils for all three mounts with slightly longer bolts should fix it.

Pic of bolt location;

 

[sirhk100]

Too many different vehicles in my driveway over the past few years to keep track of but... I SWEAR it's my expo that had the top bolt strip out of the steering box as well. I ran a drill thru the whole thing to finish off what remained of the threads and was able to run a bolt all the way thru it and secure it with a stover lock nut on the inside of the steering box. Maybe it wasn't my expo but... Is that an option for you as well? Is it a thru threaded hole in the box?

 

[BKennedy]

Too many different vehicles in my driveway over the past few years to keep track of but... I SWEAR it's my expo that had the top bolt strip out of the steering box as well. I ran a drill thru the whole thing to finish off what remained of the threads and was able to run a bolt all the way thru it and secure it with a stover lock nut on the inside of the steering box. Maybe it wasn't my expo but... Is that an option for you as well? Is it a thru threaded hole in the box?

It's the back bolt and it comes out on a raised area that is for the threaded bolt hole. Don't know if there is room to put a nut on the end, but I am getting a few different bolt lengths and was going to heli-coil the threads as I have had great luck with that. Then, if there is room, get a lock nut on the back side of the box. I am going to just go ahead and heli-coil the two bottom bolt holes since they are so much stronger than tapped threads.