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Bkennedy's SAS and Rebuild Thread

I think this is going to work!

I think so too. Took it on a road test today. It never got over 180, even up a mile grade with it in 3rd and floored. Normal temp was around 150-160, which is where that trans is supposed to be at. Took a while to get to 150 but with the synthetic fluid it should shouldn't ever be an issue, unless I am out wheelin' in 20 below temps (not likely). Engine did not get above the "R" in Normal. It usually gets warmer faster. I think the trans guy was right and they engine and trans were heating each other up.

Best part, it is not leaking. I am going to take it on a longer trip to make sure its a done deal, then work on replacing the hose with steel lines. Its fairly inexpensive, and is great piece of mind for those long, multi-day adventures.
 



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Use Permatex Aluminum anti-seize lubricant for aluminum cast to insure you do not over-torque.

Hind sight is 20/20 :frustrated:

I used a torque wrench set at 12 foot pounds, which is the low torque setting for the pan bolts (12-14). The bolt was just too short and not grabbing enough threads to last. Surprised it lasted as long as it did.
 






Yea I love that place. That's where I used to take the ranger every other weekend. Sidewinder and Bronco Flats are so fun. So is gunslinger, but I can imagine all the rain we got this year really made the trails fun.

We have definitely gotta get out and wheel together in the next couple of months. As soon as I get my house remodel finished, I'll get the Sarge back together and ready to go play. Also, the Ranger is probably more along the lines of what you are wheeling, and I'm hoping to have it back mid summer too, so hopefully we can get some wheeling in

I want to go too :bounce:
 






Brian,

I don't know if you remember my trans cooler setup for the 700r4.. Soo.. here it is.. I'm using 2 plate style coolers and a Geo Prism fan against the one.... I have it wired so when the converter isn't locked the fan runs. Once the converter locks it'll turn off the fan... I'm using a capacitor to stop the fan from turning on immediately when I hit the brakes (send the unlock signal to the trans). The converter has to be unlocked for 5 seconds before the fan turns on..

3454386008_0cd7b0e3aa_z.jpg
Transmission-cooler-misc 003 by maniak_az, on Flickr

Soo.. the setup is... Transmission to PH8a type filter to transmission heat exchanger to stacked cooler with fan to stacked cooler back to the transmission.

~Mark
 






The only real issue I have had with the 700R4 that wasn't Bowtie Overdrives related is it likes to get hot. Its running much cooler now. Maybe I could add a pusher fan in the future. Next thing I am planning with the trans is new hard cooler lines.

Did you bypass the radiator?

Ever since I installed the Radflo coilovers, the steering seems a little too sensitive. It was on the sensitive side before, but now its where I have to be very careful driving it on the highway. The turning radius is great, however. Having the front suspension about an inch taller, and lowering the axle side shock mounts must have changed the caster. It was right at the lowest recommended setting for a Early Bronco prior to the new shocks, I think 6* negative. I am going to replace the 4* bushing with the 7* bushings I had in there before.

But first, I need to rebuild the horse trailer dividers. They are all bent up because Sarah's big horse likes to push against them. Don't think they had him in mind when they made them. They are two pieces of sheet metal with one 1.5" piece of square tube lengthwise through the center. Need to cut them open, flatten them back out and add some more square tubing.
 






Did you bypass the radiator?
On the Explorer, no.. I'm still connected through the radiator... it's between the external filter and the cooler with the fan. In the winter we can get below freezing (into the teens) so I left it in... I am running a 180F thermostat so it's not "too hot".

On the Van, I'm only running a big external cooler and external filter with with the Mark VIII fan... no trans fluid through the radiator.. That's a big cooler though...Tru model 4739 - 45,000 btu (40,000 gvwr rating).

~Mark
 






I can't purchase a 180F thermostat here anymore. "Not available in California" I have a 195F in there since I did the intake gaskets.
 






Today, I got motivated and replaced the radius arm axle bushings with the 7* ones I have. Steering is less sensitive now, and did not lose too much turning radius. Only took a few hours and I was taking my time. It should have 8-9* negative caster now.

Also replaced my trans temp gauge with one that has a longer temp sweep. Goes from 100-270. Old gauge went from 150-300 with a very short sweep so it was hard to read. Required replacing the sensor, which is in the trans drain plug.

Probably not going to be doing anything else to the Explorer until after the 5 trails in 7 days run.
 






wish i was able to do that run. Starting this new job threw everything off for me
 






Brian,

I don't know if you remember my trans cooler setup for the 700r4.. Soo.. here it is.. I'm using 2 plate style coolers and a Geo Prism fan against the one.... I have it wired so when the converter isn't locked the fan runs. Once the converter locks it'll turn off the fan... I'm using a capacitor to stop the fan from turning on immediately when I hit the brakes (send the unlock signal to the trans). The converter has to be unlocked for 5 seconds before the fan turns on..

3454386008_0cd7b0e3aa_z.jpg
Transmission-cooler-misc 003 by maniak_az, on Flickr

Soo.. the setup is... Transmission to PH8a type filter to transmission heat exchanger to stacked cooler with fan to stacked cooler back to the transmission.

~Mark

Its been hot here. Not Arizona hot, but hot for San Diego. Took the Explorer for a 30 minute freeway drive. I let the engine idle for 25 minutes and the trans temp gauge did not move until I started driving (lowest reading is 100 degrees). Temp is at 155-165 on the flat at 65 MPH, but creeps up to 180 when going up long grades or in stop-and-go traffic. The 155-165 is optimal for the 700R4 trans. Engine temps remain cooler than before I deleted the radiator trans cooler routing. All the modifications I have done so far are working to help keep the engine and trans running cooler.

I quoted Mark's post because of the picture. Those little plastic fins that go on each side of the radiator support to help direct air flow; I don't have those anymore. I removed them to make room for some stuff that is no longer there. I looked in my parts boxes and must have tossed them. Would they help with cooling? I could make up some out of sheet metal, or pull a set out of a junk yard.

Decided I want to pull the transmission and fix the engine oil leak(s) prior to the 5 Trails in 7 Days run. The oil level isn't dropping much, but its drips on my skid plate and is making a mess. Even if no one else is going, my buddy Mike and I are planning on going up there anyways. After I re-install the trans I am going to run new hard lines to the coolers.

Anybody in this area have the Ford installation tool for the rear 4.0 main seal?

How about a floor transmission jack? Harbor freight has one that I like, but its $150 with a coupon and don't see having to figure out where to store one, for the one-time use (hopefully).

Am willing to pay a rental fee.
 






It couldn't hurt to help direct the air straight into the coolers. I have added something something similar to the '60 Dart to help direct flow into the radiator.

How about fabricating a big pad for your floor jack that you can use for the transmission? Add a ratchet strap and you'll be set.
 






It couldn't hurt to help direct the air straight into the coolers. I have added something something similar to the '60 Dart to help direct flow into the radiator.

How about fabricating a big pad for your floor jack that you can use for the transmission? Add a ratchet strap and you'll be set.

I could probably fab up air flow fins that work better then the OEM stuff. I will get on that someday.

I was thinking about using a big piece of flat plate that I have for a floor jack trans adaptor. I do have a long travel floor jack that reaches the trans pan, and the pan on the 700R4 is big and flat, and made of steel so it would make a good rest for the transmission. Trying to weigh the pro's and con's of purchasing vs fabricating.
 






I just did a quick and dirty pad extension for dropping the fuel tank in the Ram. I drilled 4 holes in the existing pad and bolted plywood to it. Worked great.
 






I have a pad from an old jack that I saved that I think will fit the new jack. If that fits, then I can work with that. I guess even thick plywood would work as a pad.
 






sorry bud, I don't have a trans jack or the 4.0 tool. I go to the base and use the auto skills center if I have to drop a transmission or something like that
 












[QUOTE="BKennedy]

Decided I want to pull the transmission and fix the engine oil leak(s) prior to the 5 Trails in 7 Days run. The oil level isn't dropping much, but its drips on my skid plate and is making a mess. Even if no one else is going, my buddy Mike and I are planning on going up there anyways. [/QUOTE]

Right now I have Myself and my friend Mike in a 4door JK on 37"s in for sure. I have another Don in a 4 door Tacoma on 38"s that is almost for sure. One other friend Jonathan in a Commando on 37"s that is still trying to resolve work conflicts. I will be there not sure if Tracy is coming or not.

The biggest issue though is Dusy might not be open in time for the run. I tried calling you to talk about it earlier today. Every trail but Bald still has snow on it. They won't open a trail till all the snow melts off of it. Coyote lake at 9100' still had ice on it yesterday when I hiked in. I think everything but Dusy should be open by end of July/ early August. Dusy is tough to say as there is a log bridge that might need some significant repairs made to it. We might have to rearrange the schedule a bit.
 















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BJ's rentals down their looks like the rent trans jacks. $25 a day.
 






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