Bkennedy's SAS and Rebuild Thread

[BKennedy]

No pic, sorry.
I have purchased two Ford service manuals for the 1994 Explorer. One is the "Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting Guide", the other is the "Truck Explorer Complete Wiring Diagram". Both books are large sized and have extensive diagrams. The troubleshooting guide has easy to read large print diagrams. The wiring diagram is more extensive. If anybody needs help in this area, let me know and I should be able to scan the page(s) and send them to you. I got both service manuals off eBay for cheap.

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[RockRanger]

I need help. Why when do I turn on the ignition do I get 7.8 volts sent to the brake light circuit. Any diagrams you have that show the brake light circuit and what might be attached to it would be helpful.

 

[BKennedy]

Your wiring is going to be different than a 94 Explorer. You have separate turn and brake lights while the Ex has combined brake and turn lights.
I wonder in all the cutting and welding you have recently done if you did not cause a short?

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[BKennedy]

Matt, I think your trailer adaptor is not working properly.

I have a question about dual battery set up's:
Turns out, I have a 120 max amp isolator and a 130 amp alternator. I upgraded the alternator from the stock 90 amp. So, I need a new isolator. All I want my dual battery system to do is charge both batteries, and keep them separate so one does not burn up the other, or drain the other. Secondary battery is used for lights, stereo, etc.., and piece of mind for solo off road trips.
I was thinking this would be a good time to ditch the bulky diode type isolator and go with a relay type. Besides, its much cheaper and the relay type uses both batteries when starting. That sounds like a plus for me since I am stuck hooking the winch up to the main battery. I do not want to have to switch them back and forth, or spend a bunch of cash on a Painless system. Just a plain old, install and forget type set up.
Suggestions??

 

[BKennedy]

I already had it wired for a jumper switch when I used the diode type isolator. I guess I can leave that, and just use a relay type isolator instead of the diode type?
I used a battery cut off switch for the jumper and had it under the hood in a way that with the key in, you could not fully close the hood. Keeps me from forgetting and leaving the batteries connected.

 

[Tbars4]

...I have the Stinger 200 amp relay/solenoid (in one) set up with dual batteries and running 160 amp alt (shorter lifespan on alt due to more rpm's)..

..The Stinger is only on after start up of vehicle which then allows the charging of the second battery. Key off and it disconnects the second battery..

..A quick swap of a wire (if ever it was needed) would allow you to use the other battery to start.

,,I have all stock items on the main battery and offroad/rock lights...Fridge and all other acc. separated on the second battery and I usually have multiple items charging as well as running the fridge for a week or more at a time..

I know some who have added a simple switch for a or b battery but don't recall anyone ever really using one so I didn't put one in..

I like simple but effective..:biggthump

 

[BKennedy]

Thanks, just ordered a 200 amp stinger.

 

[Tbars4]

..:scratch:...I think Rick has a stinger and also a marine A-B-AB swtch on the Pumpkin..

 

[BKennedy]

Rick has one of those fancy dash switches, and I think the winch controller is also incorporated into the panel.

 

[Rick]

..:scratch:...I think Rick has a stinger and also a marine A-B-AB swtch on the Pumpkin..

It's just a regular Ford continuous duty solenoid that they used to use for their own dual battery setups... I did wire it with a three position switch so it will charge, isolate, or jumpstart one battery to the other.

The winch switch setup is from http://www.12voltguy.com

 

[ld50]

Finally caught up on the thread, gettin there.
Umm thought I would chime in on the dual batteries, been very happy with mine, no issues no jump starts needed.

http://http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=66141&page=8

 

[BKennedy]

Finally caught up on the thread, gettin there.
Umm thought I would chime in on the dual batteries, been very happy with mine, no issues no jump starts needed.

http://http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=66141&page=8

I used to have the dual battery set up almost exactly like yours. Now I have shock hoops where the intake used to be, so the intake is where the primary battery was, and the primary battery is where the secondary battery was. The evap canister is next to the new location for the primary battery, the radiator reservoir is now solo (cut off the windshield washer reservoir) next to the primary battery, and the windshield washer reservoir is a aluminum water bottle.

I got a lot done today. Nearly finished the wiring for all the accessories. I will post a picture of what I took out from under the dash; what a mess it was. Still need to fab up a secondary battery box out of an old bed frame I have, mount it and wire it up. Then, I will pull the transfer case to fab up the new transmission cross member.

 

[BKennedy]

Got the triple rate springs in;

Got most of the wiring done. This is some of the crap I took out.

The garage floor is littered with crimp connectors, zip ties, pieces of wire and wire loom. Under the dash it is starting to look neat again instead of a mass of wires and in line fuses. On some bundles, I had three in line fuses for different things coming off the same wire. I counted 13 in line fuses I have pulled out. I think I got them all. Now everything will have its own dedicated fuse/circuit. I will even have 3 or 4 fuse slots left over for more stuff!!

 

[james t]

^ That looks a lot like my wiring. Redoing it all is on the to do list.

 

[4pullingGM]

Nice clean work as always sir

 

[Rick]

I went and cleaned up my electrical stuff about 10 years ago...

Unfortunately I need to do it again

 

[BKennedy]

Wait until its finished. It will look nice and neat. All connections covered with marine grade shrink tubing. Going to go wire loom shopping today or Monday.
What got me started on cleaning up the wiring was when I tried to trace a wire when my bumper mounted lights quit working. I couldn't figure out which in-line fuse went to what under the dash. I had about 10 extra wires, complete with in-line fuses, some with relays, going to the secondary battery.
Then, I took a serious look at the wiring while moving it out of the way for the SAS. Thought it would really suck if the truck burnt up due to my crappy wiring jobs after I spent all those hours making it into a real nice rig.

 

[tdavis]

Personally not a big fan of the plastic loom tube..

I'd use this, but you have to install it during the wire job, not after..

http://www.delcity.net/store/Expandable-Sleeving/p_278

 

[BKennedy]

Personally not a big fan of the plastic loom tube..

I'd use this, but you have to install it during the wire job, not after..

http://www.delcity.net/store/Expandable-Sleeving/p_278

I need the loom because I am going to use it to enclose existing wire as well as new stuff.

 

[Rick]

This is the stuff I used in the Dart:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-70901/overview/

The link is for 1/4", but it's available in a bunch of sizes.

It's like what Tom linked to, but this is split so you can use it on existing wiring. I wanted to be able to make changes so I didn't go the fully enclosed route.

It's not like the plastic stuff you get at the autoparts stores that dries out and cracks in a few years.