Bkennedy's SAS and Rebuild Thread

[BKennedy]

Pulled the power steering pump reservoir to reseal. Kit has everything needed, even the cap O-ring. I was unaware that all you have to do to remove the reservoir is remove the pressure valve where the pressure line attaches. Unscrew that, and you can wiggle the reservoir off the back of the pump. Replaced all the seals and O-rings (they were all shot), bolted it back up and it promptly started leaking out of the center of the pressure hose fitting where it attaches to the reservoir. I noticed some fluid on that area before I took it apart, but I was hoping it was from the pressure valve leaking. Oh, well, off to the parts store for a new hose. I should have replaced the pressure hose when I replaced the steering box and I am now paying the price for being cheap.

Mine would stay since I run a hybrid radius arm set up where the upper links are in toward the center of the rig than the lower links. So it may sag a hair to one side or the other but it could not fully fold up.

Also may seam like a lot of side load on the steering box to hold it from folding over at a rest but think of the pressure the box gets when trying to turn twisted up on rocks. If you took the trac bar off I bet you could have one guy easily hold the rig centered from flopping, but one guy cannot even come close to turning the front tires at a stand still even with pushing on the outside of the tires which has WAY more leverage than the steering knuckle. Yet the box can move them with ease at a stand still. Lots of pressure!

Would using a rock ram remove a lot of that load? It seems like it would, as it pushes / pulls on the tie rod as the steering is pushing / pulling the drag link. No, I have no plans to get a rock ram.

 

[turboexplorer]

Yes I think it would, only issue at that point is you loose any feel for how hard you are steering. Like if your bound on a rock you can now turn it which is nice but you may not be able to tell how bound up it really is and that's hard on the knuckles, but easier on the steering box and mount. Also no need for any steering stabilizer when you have a ram assist. It is needed if fully locked up front though, VERY hard to turn while locked. I am just limited slip up front and I never have an issue turning my 37's while crawling.

 

[BKennedy]

I have a e-locker up front, which is fully locked when activated. Its nearly impossible to steer when both front tires have good traction. I don't use it very often.

The power steering saga continues....
I got it all together for what I assumed would be the last time and it was leaking out of the new O-ring at the main seal. I got frustrated, and bought a new pump with reservoir. It should be going in on Monday. I think the only thing maintaining the integrity of the reservoir was 20 years worth of grease and dirt. When I cleaned it all off it could not hold a seal. I thought about just getting the reservoir, but I thought it might not work either, and I am tired of messing with it. When I purchased the seal kit, it ran thought my mind that I should just replace the pump since normally any attempt to reseal something hydraulic doesn't work out for me, but I gave it a try. Before I take back the core, I will remove all the new seals to have a complete seal kit to throw in the parts box in the RV.

I was hoping to keep the current pump until Maniac (Mark) finishes his steering pump upgrade and go that route, but no bueno.

 

[Rick]

Would using a rock ram remove a lot of that load? It seems like it would, as it pushes / pulls on the tie rod as the steering is pushing / pulling the drag link. No, I have no plans to get a rock ram.

Hydro assist is one of those things you'll wonder how you ever did without. Kind of like the SAS

Yes it takes load off of the steering box since it is doing a lot of the work itself.

It makes such a big difference that I have forgotten to unlock the front ARB since with the ram you can't even tell that the locker is solidly locked up.

 

[BKennedy]

Power steering pump R&R, done! Took about 1.5 hours. The new one is very quiet compared to the old, so maybe it was time. There used to be a quiet squeak when I started the Explorer cold until it warmed up. It was not there after the swap.

 

[BKennedy]

Does anyone have a completely shot rag joint, first gen steering shaft they would be willing to part with for free? Mine is still intact and works so I don't want to cut it up. I have a shaft from a Cherokee (thanks FR-425) with the double u-joints and I want to see if I can make a frankenshaft using the Cherokee shaft with the Explorer ends. I would pay for flat rate shipping, of course.

 

[turboexplorer]

I used my 2nd Gen intermediate shaft. It has the double u joints as well.

 

[sirhk100]

Turning with my front locker just adds to the adventure in my opinon!!!! You guys and your rams and selectables... Gosh!!!

 

[Kirby N.]

You can always unlock a hub?

I backed up a steep obstacle in Independence trail once with the wheels turned with a newly installed detroit in the front of my explorer and boom! a shaft broke, which killed my detroit too via shock load. Thats when I went to a selectable ARB and chromolly shafts with superjoints. Even then, I always remember that shafts are at their weakest when they are fully turned and try not to beat on it with the wheels turned. In my Rubicon I always hit the button to turn just to save parts. In my experience it hasn't been aweful to get the wheels to turned but the jeep or truck keeps going straight!! Haha!

 

[BKennedy]

I got spoiled with the ARB in the D35 so I wanted a selectable locker in the SA. One button, and you are locked. One button, and you can steer..

Today I took the Explorer out to put some miles on the new power steering pump and decided to go to my secret testing area. I also wanted to check out clearances with the new track bar axle mount configuration. Everything worked great.
I found a bigger rock

 

[Kirby N.]

Looks great! I am so ready for mine to be done!

 

[BKennedy]

Couple more

Limit strap not tight yet, still got a few more inches of droop.

I am so pleased with how much more stable the entire Explorer is with the new rear shock mounts. It doesn't feel like its going to flop while off camber anymore. It is a little stiff on the pavement, but the stability off road is worth the bumps on the street. I need to experiment with rear tire pressure and see if that helps.

 

[BKennedy]

And, two more

 

[BKennedy]

I used my 2nd Gen intermediate shaft. It has the double u joints as well.

Did you use a first gen steering gear box?
Did it bolt up without modification?

 

[turboexplorer]

No, I used an F-150 steering box. Far as I know it's the same size and shape etc just a different gear ratio. It's a steeper ratio if I remember right.

And not quite as far as bolt up. I took the factory F-150 end and drilled out the rivets for the rag joint. Then I made a steel plate the same size as that end and drilled holes to match the factory rivet holes. Then welded that plate to the end of the double cardon factory intermediate shaft and used 2 bolts to bolt that plate to the factory F-150 end. I also had to disassemble the shaft and cut both male and female ends so the intermediate shaft was a bit shorter than the factory length. I did cut the pinch fitting for the steering rack off the end of the factory shaft so I had a strong square end to weld to that plate. Anyways there is some pictures on (dead link) of my thread. The pictures may make more sense.

I also used factory rubber boot that goes over the double cardon joint. And made a heat shield that bolts to 1 manifold bolt to help keep the high heat off of the shaft since between the 2 metal pieces it has a plastic sleeve.

Edit - Link doesn't work was posted from my phone, I'll fix it later.

 

[BKennedy]

No, I used an F-150 steering box. Far as I know it's the same size and shape etc just a different gear ratio. It's a steeper ratio if I remember right....................................................

Nevermind...

 

[BKennedy]

Looks great! I am so ready for mine to be done!

Thanks.
Take your time. It seems like half the fun is doing the work and having it turn out well.

 

[BKennedy]

Today I took the Explorer on a day long drive. Met up with my friend Mike and did some gold panning/detecting in Julian, then headed over the mountain. Went through Rodriguez Canyon to Oraflame Canyon and down to S-2. Drove down some semi-smooth, sharp-cornered dirt roads in Blair Valley at high speed. Took SR-78 through the narrows to Grapevine Canyon. Did a little more metal detecting, then back home.

Explorer handled the winding mountain roads with little body roll. Has a tendency to wander slightly on the highway. I think that is due to the caster being on the low side of the recommend settings, but I need it that way for driveline angle. Did great down the high speed dirt roads and seems much more sure footed now. Freaked out Mike when I drove up on a 5' tall rock with one tire on the side of the trail (His Jeep can't do that without lifting a tire). So now, I should just enjoy it for a while and not mess with the suspension anymore. It is just so much fun to drive on any type of surface.

Still want to fabricate a new roof rack and get the seats fixed. I want a longer, lower profile rack with a LED light bar. Seats are 20 years old and are showing their age.

I have two small LED battery voltage gauges that I will be installing, I just have to figure out where as I am running out of room. One for each battery. I will have them set up so when the key is in accessory, they read separately, but in on/start/run, the batteries will be joined and/or charging so should read about the same.

 

[johnny499]

Well it sounds like you have the suspension dialed in. A 5' tall rock with one tire is outside of my comfort zone but it sounds like you have much more seat time in the rocks. I can't wait to see what you come up with for a new roof rack, it's on my list of things to do with similar requirements.

 

[sirhk100]

I think that is due to the caster being on the low side of the recommend settings, but I need it that way for driveline angle.

WHAT???!!!! You mean you don't want to cut the ends off your front axle and rotate/reindex them and weld them back up? Chicken!!!! (I don't blame you... LOL)