Bkennedy's SAS and Rebuild Thread

[BKennedy]

I think I found a location for the coupler on the rear bumper, much like Brian1's, nearly a carbon copy actually. I purchased the material but ran out of time to mock it up. I will probably mount the coupler on the passenger side though, just in case I ever need to use the compressor on the side of the road.

I also don't know why I got it in my head that an in line 30 amp fuse would work with a compressor that draws 30 amps, but it now has a 40 amp auto reset breaker.

 

[Stic-o]

That works. Nice and safe too.

 

[BKennedy]

Thanks to Brian1 for pushing me in the right direction, I got the air quick disconnect mounted. It was an easy job because, for once, everything went together the first try. Used a universal quick coupling because I like the idea of being able to have anyone hook up to the air with whatever they need to hook up with, regardless of which coupling they use, and the coupling itself was thicker at the base than a standard coupler. Of course, the top is also larger diameter than the standard couplings, so the cap I bought doesn't fit. Off to Marshall's Hardware one more time.

I left it on for an hour and the compressor did not kick on, so I guess its not leaking. I also removed the rubber bushings at the mounts and it seems quieter inside. Plus, the mounting is much more solid that way.

It doesn't look like it in the pic, but the regulator and gauge are a few inches above the plate.
The air hose is mostly resting on top of the rear frame cross member, directly below the plastic thingie that runs below the bumper to hide the frame when the hatch is open. You know, the one that when you drop a screw in the gap between the bumper and cargo floor, it uses for a launch ramp to escape and you spend 20 minutes looking for the screw?

 

[Brian1]

Looks good!

 

[Rick]

A rubber cap would make a nice addition, otherwise when you plug in an air tool it's going to get a shot of dust and crap that made it's way into the fitting.

 

[Stic-o]

A rubber cap would make a nice addition, otherwise when you plug in an air tool it's going to get a shot of dust and crap that made it's way into the fitting.

This

 

[BKennedy]

OK

A 7/8" vacuum cap fits perfectly.

 

[Stic-o]

 

[BKennedy]

Filled up the air tank today and went fishing. It sat for four hours and did not lose any air. I am going to see if it holds overnight, then drain it because it doesn't need to be full while sitting in the garage.

Today, I was thinking about installing an air pressure gauge visible from the driver's seat. What type of hose and what size ID should I run if I decide to do this?

 

[Maniak]

The ID of the line for watching pressure won't matter, pressure is pressure. and you aren't trying to get volume from the line.

Most small air pressure gauges are 1/8" npt so you want a line that you can get the npt fitting onto later. Heck, you can use some 1/8" nylon line with a ferrule to 1/8" npt fitting. Just make sure the line you choose can hold the pressure you will have.

If you want to go bigger, they do make 1/4 npt fittings on air pressure gauges too.

~Mark

 

[BKennedy]

The ID of the line for watching pressure won't matter, pressure is pressure. and you aren't trying to get volume from the line.

Most small air pressure gauges are 1/8" npt so you want a line that you can get the npt fitting onto later. Heck, you can use some 1/8" nylon line with a ferrule to 1/8" npt fitting. Just make sure the line you choose can hold the pressure you will have.

If you want to go bigger, they do make 1/4 npt fittings on air pressure gauges too.

~Mark

Okay, thanks. So I just basically need a line size for the pressure, that can take the right sized ferrule. I have three air pressure gauges at home, so I will be picking on of those. I am not sure I want to tackle that, but it would be nice to be able to look at the air pressure without crawling under the rig.

 

[turboexplorer]

Agree with [MENTION=62]Maniak[/MENTION] just a signal, my boost Guage etc just runs small nylon line. Just need it rated for the air pressure you run. Turned out great!

 

[FR-425]

Air shock line works great. Rated 300psi and is available at the AP store by the foot. The ferrule's are stepped from 1/4 pipe down to the line size (1/8") already. most air guages are going to be 1/4",so perfect for the job.

Get the white stuff: easier to route around tight turns. The black pex stuff kink's to easy.

It can also be used for oil pressure lines.

It looks chincy but it holds pressure excellent. My rear air bags have been holding 70 psi since last year!

 

[gmanpaint]

For an example:

http://www.jegs.com/i/Viair/961/90084/10002/-1?parentProductId=3383231#moreDetails

The Viair Gauge uses a 1/8" NPT female Compression fitting for the 1/4" nylon feed line. Pretty sure the ARB air line is also 1/4" so it should work just fine.

The fitting:

http://www.jegs.com/i/Viair/961/92838/10002/-1

 

[BKennedy]

Thanks fellas

 

[BKennedy]

Did a little work on the air pressure gauge idea, I made a under-the-dash mounting bracket for one of my gauges. It will pinch the bracket between two rubber bushings, the gauge itself and the line fitting. The gauge will almost look like its floating with the hidden bracket. I got a two plug 12 accs under dash mount to replace the three plug I have there to free up the space for the gauge. I was thinking about re-doing the center console, but it would not leave enough room for the ham radio I want to stack with the CB in the future. They should both fit off the under the dash location of the CB whenever I get around to taking the test and getting one. Still window shopping right now.

Existing

Gauge and bracket

New 12 volt accs plugs

Helped my neighbor install a Smittybuilt bumper on the rear of his Jeep yesterday. What a pain. A bunch of brackets, none of which lined up with the existing holes well enough to get a bolt into, all of the bolts were either too long or worse, too short. Couldn't use the lock or flat washers on some of them. Had to unbolt the gas tank and move it forward to get to the back of the bumper plate. Had to double shim the locking plate mount for the tire mount, and put both nylon bushings on the top of the pivot point to get it to line up. Six hours. I told him it if was mine, I would have welded the frigin thing on in less time.

The kit had this little red bottle of what appears to be red thread locker. It did not mention what to do with it, but I am not a fan of the red stuff because it is so dang hard to undo. I used the blue stuff instead, except on the nuts they had filled with white grease, which I still can't figure out why.

 

[RockRanger]

I am sold on Ham radios. After how they helped us on Dusy I can't believe I waited so long to get my license. Still need to get a vehicle mounted radio one of these days.

 

[BKennedy]

I keep watching units like these on ebay

First, I was looking at this one
http://www.ebay.com/itm/190986730927?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Then these
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yaesu-FT-29...-Transceiver-Amateur-Ham-Radio-/252061956141?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vertex-Yaes...bile-Two-Way-Ham-Amateur-Radio-/361367230523?

And just now I saw this one
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ICOM-IC-272...e469e44&pid=100009&rk=1&rkt=1&sd=361367230523

 

[Stic-o]

I'm curious to see what you do here. I just ordered new suspension seats and plan to get these in and a redo of my center console area done before t-haven. I have to move the cb and switchs down to this same area to put the touch screen Pioneer out of the wife old explorer in.

 

[Rick]

Brian, check Matt's thread:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=424798

Look at his last post. There is a great deal going on a Yaesu mobile rig. I also answered a question of his about whether or not a dual band is necessary.

I have a Baofong hand held, but not the model you linked to. Tom has had one for quite some time and he likes it. I haven't used mine much.