Bkennedy's SAS and Rebuild Thread

[BKennedy]

Got the lower intake and valve covers installed today. It was a lot easier working on the engine when the Explorer was stock height. I have to use a step ladder, kneel on the tires, and bumper, and lay on the fenders to get to the back of the engine.

What also sucks about working on this older engine, is the locking tabs on the electrical connections stick, then want to break off as they are old and brittle. The few I broke off get a little RTV when put back together to keep them from coming apart.

 

[FR-425]

Here's a link to Ford's Pigtail I.D. chart and part numbers. If you ever need to replace some.

https://www.fordparts.com/FileUploads/CMSFiles/18376 Pigtail Book 2016.pdf

 

[BKennedy]

Here's a link to Ford's Pigtail I.D. chart and part numbers. If you ever need to replace some.

https://www.fordparts.com/FileUploads/CMSFiles/18376 Pigtail Book 2016.pdf

Thanks, but I have the wiring and vacuum book and it has all the connector part numbers.

 

[BKennedy]

I am still waiting for parts, mainly the injector rebuild kit.

I have a question about batteries; I have had bad luck the past few years with Optima and was looking at Odyssey's. It looks like I could stick both batteries in the space under the hood where I have the starting battery. Does anyone have any experience with these?

 

[Stic-o]

I moved away from optima. I have been running a O'riely Super Start AGM. It's been good to me over the last 6 or 7 years or something like that.

 

[WormsExplorer]

I moved away from optima. I have been running a O'riely Super Start AGM. It's been good to me over the last 6 or 7 years or something like that.

Do you run a winch also? Just wondering I'm gonna have a winch some day

 

[johnny499]

According to our rep the story goes that optima was designed and made by odyssey. years ago they sold the optima battery design and line to exide which is when they went down hill. We have been selling and installing odyssey batteries for several years now in emergency and commercial vehicles. We did our own testing before we took on the line. we ran all the lights on a squad car without the vehicle running for over two hours when the voltage got low enough that the lights started cutting out we shut everything off for 15 minutes and to our surprise the car started with no charger hooked up. this would not have happened with a standard battery. That combined with the non prorated 4 year warranty has sold us and many of our customers. That being said one of our large customers has tried a delco agm which i have been told is standing up as well as the odyssey for less money. I have a group 31 odyssey that i plan to mount at the back of mine as an aux battery to augment the plain acid battery under the hood.

 

[roscoe 0202]

I was told that optima moved production to mexico and their warranty claims went through the roof so i went odyssey.
roscoe

 

[Kirby N.]

I am still running 2 yellow top optimas. I heard all the negative hype, but I have always had good experience with them. My dealer buddy said they had some bad ones, but seemed to have figured it out- so I bough the second one for my jeep in October. It was much easier to get a good blem battery cheap when they were built here in co. Since they moved to Mexico that dried up

 

[BKennedy]

Any links to where the Odyssey's were purchased?

I got the injector rebuild kit and my new limit straps in today. I also picked up a "Loan a Tool" pitman arm puller from AutoZone. Should have the engine work finished by Saturday, and maybe get the pitman twisted too. If not, I am helping my neighbor install new shocks on his Tacoma Monday, so he can hold the torch while I twist.

 

[BKennedy]

That oil pan gasket has been on my mind since I installed it. It just doesn't seem right, and I don't think it will hold. I went to a few more auto parts stores and they are all the same; metal with a rubber inner lip and rubber crank seals. I went home, and its still bugging me. I do a search for a 1993 Explorer oil pan gasket, and there it is; a complete rubber seal that fits in the grooves machined into the oil pan. Now, I need to pull the oil pan and R/R the gasket again. Back to the auto parts store, with another day wasted. I am mad at myself for not trusting the little voice in my head saying that there is no way that is the right gasket.

PSA: When planning on doing engine work on your 1994 Explorer, take it apart first and then start looking for the gaskets and parts. There are a few different versions of the 4.0l engine for this year, and I seem to have a mix of all of them. I have wasted a lot of time and money trying to have everything ready beforehand.

 

[BKennedy]

Spent a marathon 10 hour day working on the Explorer. Got the oil pan out and back in with the correct gasket. Hope it doesn't leak, because its a royal pain. There is a hard plastic seal called a "wedge seal" at the back of the engine. The existing one looked hard and brittle. Yep, it came out in pieces. I spent a few hours chipping little pieces of it out of the sides of the crank housing. The long torx bolt at the rear of the pan is very hard to get started with the transmission in place. I bet on a stand with the engine upside-down, it would be a lot easier. The engineer that designed that engine needs to be kicked in the nuts.

I got a Felpro gasket set and it came with these little screw in plastic guides that are supposed to make it easier to install the pan. I tried them, and while I was shifting the pan around to get the long bolt mentioned above started, one of them broke off inside a bolt hole. I had to continue the install because I was afraid the RTV would set before I could get it tightened down. After I got in every other bolt, I drilled out the plastic stuck in the bolt hole and installed the last bolt. And I thought the intake was going to be the hard part.

Got most of the upper engine stuff back in place. I rerouted some of the wiring harnesses and vacuum lines and still need to clean them up a little more before I install the alternator and upper radiator hose. Going to wait until Monday to give the sealant time to set before I install the transmission bolts that go into the back of the oil pan. With the 700R4 transmission, I think their only purpose is to help the engine / transmission aluminum adaptor stay rigid. Also need to reinstall the trans bell housing (needed to remove to get to the trans bolts), the starter, oil level sensor, and add coolant and oil. After that, I still have to reinstall the engine cross member, and the cross member at the transmission / engine that holds the front of my skid plate. Going to wait on those last items until the engine is running for a while because with them out of the way its easier to spot leaks.

 

[FR-425]

Hold the pan, the wrench, the bolt and with your third hand ... . .. .

 

[BKennedy]

Hold the pan, the wrench, the bolt and with your third hand ... . .. .

Exactly...
What made it work is I have a 1/4" drive cordless impact that I used to slowly turn the bolt while I wobbled the pan around with the other hand to find the sweet spot. If I had someone turning the bolt while I used both hands to maneuver the pan, it would have been much faster.

I keep forgetting I have that impact. It is a real time saver, if I used it. I installed everything else by hand as usual. This job did allow me to justify the purchase of a 1/4" drive, inch-pound torque wrench.

 

[FR-425]

I just threw down on a set of Snap-On battery powered impacts. $1,600! OUCH! They are awesome though.

Work'n on 26,000LB + units now so everything needs the hammer....

 

[BKennedy]

I got the Explorer all back together and took it for a ride. Doesn't seem to be leaking any more oil. I still think the main seal might be leaking when the vehicle is at extreme angles, but I really am tired of wrenching on it for now. Besides, pulling the t-case and transmission is not a one-man job. It started right up, and seems to have more power. Probably due to the injectors and me cleaning all the gunk out of the intakes more than anything else. Noticed it takes longer to come down to idle when stopped than before. Might just need to be driven more.

Haven't twisted the pitman yet. I went through three pitman pullers and none of them worked. Going to look at another today.

 

[FR-425]

Heat up the pitman just a bit with the torch. It'll make things go ever so better.
Just a little expansion will break it loose. So don't over do it and keep the fire away from the seals. Apply the heat about half way point of the pitman.

 

[RockRanger]

I have put the puller on and tighten it down tight. A bit of heat with a propane torch and they came right off with the tension

 

[BKennedy]

The pullers didn't fit the arm, and / or were too large to fit in the small space. I have had this problem since I got the Superlift pitman. It is very wide at the top. I went to Harbor Freight and $12.49 later, I got one that almost fit. It was just a tad too narrow. Clearanced it with a die grinder. Used penetrating oil, got the puller on tight, then gave the pitman arm one good solid tap with a three pound hand sledge. Popped right off. Now I have a custom pitman arm puller. No more AutoZone loaners for me. I did a solo heat up and bend. It went smooth but took a long time to get it hot enough to twist. I eyeballed the angle but it looks good (didn't want to melt my phone, it has a angle gauge app). Might be a little more than needed but that will only help.
Here is a picture of the pitman arm:

Ok, its kind of hard to see wrapped up in the blanket, but it came out pretty good. I will post a picture of it in a few hours.

Edit: I unwrapped the arm and its still lava hot, so I will post up a picture in the morning..

 

[BKennedy]

Came out well. The pitman and tie rod are both on the same degree of angle (6). I thought it was going to be a little too much, but ended up being right.

I removed the lower rod end and cycled the tie rod. It seems to drop quite a bit more than before, and still has enough room for the compression as well. If that doesn't cut it, I have just enough room to add a small spacer above the rod end.