How to: - Borg Warner-1354 Transfer Case Rebuild Diary | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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How to: Borg Warner-1354 Transfer Case Rebuild Diary

Prefix for threads which are instructional.
Like I said I am pretty stupid about these at the moment.... maybe Gremlinstein can tell about his "stublers" and answer your Q. I cannot.

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This is awesome, im days away from rebuilding mine.

Mechanix, as far as I know there is nothing to make the low range lower in a 1350/54. As to the "doubler" question,,look here

Alx covered how to make one pretty much at home in that thread. You just need someone to cut/respline the shaft.

My "stubler" is a bit more involved than that one, but it is the only way to get them shorter. That and I feel very strongly that the output shaft needs to have a support bearing to make them last.

Get your "grab box" Glacier?

"Get your grab box?"

Sure did ! Thanks so return post is on the way (wink).

fun stuff.

I just saw an interesting article on WWW.Gears.Com about troubleshooting the 1354/1356 transfer case control module that I thought would be of interest. It talks about mechanical, and electrical troubleshooting, and has color codes of all of the wires. Here is the link:

So how is this comming along? im about to buy the same kit, and chain from rockauto... i wanna rebuild mine, it cant be too bad going into this blind can it? haha

If you need any diagrams or anything let me know.

Hey yeah, i guess diagrams will help...

my main concern is like torque specs and whatnot? im not sure what to expect in there. Is it pretty basic? do i need any special lube? Anti-seize on all the splines? RTV on all the seals?

i figured it was something i could do from start to finish within a half day or something?

just put everything back togeather the same way it comes off i guess

When i get down to the nitty gritty, ill do what i can to add to the thread.

I hope to cover the tear down in the next couple weeks. The finish of the thread will wait til latter part of April as... I have some travelling in the works, and then a week with my SO down along the Big Sur Coast.

Borg Warner 1354

Have a '97 Ranger with Borg Warner 1354 Would not move in high 2wd or 4wd hi but would in 4wd low. Dissasembled transfer case. Fluid smelled burnt. No metal shavings found. Plastic shift pads totally destroyed and missing from shift fork leaving a very small scar about 1/3 around the shift collar and about 1/8 inch wide. The oil pump pickup tube is broken off flush with the pump. No other visible damage. Bearings look good and so do all the bushings. Now for my questions. How much slack in chain is ok? Should I replace bearings too? Should I rebuild it or just replace it? If rebuilding, how many parts should I replace?
Thank you


here are some pictures of my fully disassembled 1354 to aid anyone.





not sure what this is, i think its a magnet of some sort, but it had all kinda ish on it.




and a peice of the nylon guide stuck in the pickup screen


Borg warner 1354

Hi, I am new to this site and am in need of your help and expertise. Sorry if this is long winded, I just wanted to give you all the history.

I have a 1984 Mazda B4000 extended cab v6 4x4 with the bw 1354 electric shift transfer case.

I had issues with the original transfer case some time in 2006 in that it would no longer shift with the dash buttons. I tested the two fuses and they were good so I replaced the shift motor and cut the infamous brown wire.

It shifted fine for a while with the new motor then quit again. This time I replaced the motor again and soldered the brown wire together and insulated the connection, but this time it would not shift by the dash buttons. So I assumed the control module was at fault and got one at the local bone yard. Nope that did not work either. Then I assumed the replacement control module was bad and got a second replacement module, no luck on that one either.

My neighbor got me a wiring diagram and I was able to find which wires to jump from the control module wiring connector. The shift motor would operate and change the transfer case into high and low ranges. I checked all the switches and wiring to the control module all had the correct voltage, switches were working, and both the fuses still tested good. Since I was able to get it into 4 wheel drive I said that was good enough for now.

I have been driving it for 3 years like this when the transfer case jumped into neutral after hitting a large bump. I was only able to get it back into low range and tried to limp home only to have it lock up all wheels in the street and not budge. After towing it home I removed the transfer case and split the case to find a burnt mess, lots of loose ball bearings, twisted metal, and shavings. Looking at that mess I decided to try the local bone yard again and found a replacement electric shift transfer case for $200 with an intact brown wire.

After installing the new transfer case and resetting the control module to locate the transfer case position; everything was working fine. It shifted from the buttons and I was happy again. I tested my other control modules and they worked too. Now after sitting for three months with everything working when I last left it I am back to no shifting with the buttons and back to shifting by jumping wires at the control module plug.

I saw on your site a website for more info on what the wires do, however the link is no longer valid. ( Does any one have that PDF file I could get a copy of? Where can one obtain those ford CD’s? Any ideas as to what is going on? My thoughts go to the brown wire possibly loose in the connector, or the electric clutch in the transfer case, or the control module not getting a signal from the transfer case.

Thanks for your help

how do you reset the control module to locate the transfer case position

I was reading your post and you mentioned resetting the control module to locate the transfer case position. How is this done??? I replaced my shift motor and it shifted to 4 hi and low once and then nothing. It won't shift at all now and all I hear is clicking from the 4x4 CM module relay. Does my control module need to be reset to find the transfer case position to work with the new shift motor??

You can reset by disconnecting the battery for a few minutes.

I found on my truck that you need to place the transfer case in 4 x 4 low either manually or by jumping the wires that lead to the shift motor, then disconnect the battery cable, install this control module, then reconnect the battery. This will allow the computer to locate the position of the transfer case. Email me at if you need info on which color wires to jump and I will go look at my truck again. It sounds like you have the same issue that I have. The clicking sound is all I get now too.

Thanks for the pics of your disassembled transfer case.
Do you know where I can locate instructions to rebuild my case. I recently found a spare and would like to change out the chain which has been clicking away for the past few months.
thank you once again.

am I missing something from my search or did this thread just kind of stop?

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Mine just started to kinda make some noises lately and I'm guessing it's the chain. But any update to the rebuild on this?