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How to: BW 4405 Transfer Case Rebuild Diary - Comments, Questions and Input Thread

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The one thing I am not inclined to fool with is the clutch. FORD makes it clear that whenever possible "leave it alone". Knowing what I know of clutches, the friction material is likely fine, so I am tempted to heed FORD's own advice to their techs.
Did you remove the plates at least? Because sometimes the friction material on those plates just crack off of the metal discs and fall apart.
 



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Ya see... you just HAVE to make more work for me!!!

Ok, I'll take it apart.... sheesh. Slavedriver. 6 more pictures.
 






LOL sorry!

But just to make sure, I'm talking about these guys:

friction_plate.jpg


The pictures doesnt show the materials too well but the friction material begins on the 2nd plate under the top one. On the left stack, you can see some of the friction material as its the section with the radial lines -- and this friction material is missing on the '98 stack (at least on the section of the 2nd plate showing) -- apparently the driver of the '98 (me) abused the 4wd more than the driver of the 97 (brother)

The plates can only be re-installed into the cage/housing one way, you just have to align these notches so its a no-brainer:
4405_clutchring_tab.jpg


If you do go to the dealer and replace these plates, make sure you get the ones for the same year as the transfer case (of course) cauz as I remember it, one stack was slightly "thicker" than the other -- maybe it was just due to wear. But at the very least, the color of the two stacks pictured above are different .. so maybe there were other differences other than just color.
 

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Well I pulled mine apart. For all the world exactly like transmission plates, EXCEPT! The backof one plate acts as the friction for the plate underneath. Interesting.

The plastic pieces that guide the High low collar and switch into 4WD had been eaten alive by the broken collar, so there was white plastic through out this TC. I did find some in the plates. I will clean then up and reassemble... thanks for not letting me slide on this.

Also I have reassessed by decision that the input shaft/gear was bad... I did that based on your pics.... they are slightly different than my setup and I think it is good. Saved $110.
 






Also I have reassessed by decision that the input shaft/gear was bad... I did that based on your pics.... they are slightly different than my setup and I think it is good. Saved $110.
Curious -- what differences have you found?
 






Really interesting, have a 4405 next to my reloading bench, not enough time for either. Thanks for posting this!

Regards,
Brian in CA
 






I see the difference in the input shaft's gear in the diary - also the abuse of the 4LO ;)
 






So do you think a new one is in order ?
 






Well it looks like the gear will last since the damage is at the top and a very small section of the teeth's entire span - but the user needs to properly engage 4LO from now on :D
 






As to the friction material leaving plates, that usually means water got in the transfer case (at least in transmissions, that is what will cause it). Anyway mine are clean and I will get up some pics tonight of them with some discussion.

I found an excellent supplier in Spokane Washington, and ordered the replacement parts today. Here is the list:

Replacement Hi Low Shift collar (range slider they call it) $39.90
Bearing and gasket kit 52.55
Filter for pump pickup 3.80

So far I have spent (besides parts)

Brake cleaner (2 cans at $2 a can) 4.00
Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF 2 quarts 14.00

Expected additional

Paint 6.00
Gasket sealant 7.00
Reman'd case halves unk
Modified shift fork 50.00

I am thinking the case halves are under $300. With all this the trans (I meant transfer case) should be practically good as new, and maybe even better in that it will not have or get the the kind of wear that even new cases will accumulate, and it should shift better with the modified fork.
 






IZwack, assuming your indulgence I want to post your excellent thread about the hydridized 4405:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=142207

The supplier today said FORD had some variously different parts in the 4405 depending on what engine it was mated behind. I'll have to delve further into that.... stronger parts??
 












Hence my admonition about running a vent line up high someplace.
 












Ahaha I didnt see that :D
 






Lol... thanks Jefe.... I'll fix that. man I guess once a trans guy it gets in your blood.... many times as I was writing I started to say trans... and remembered to add the "fer case" on the end... I left trans and added a little note, so everyone can see so this makes sense... besides it's all in fun too. Auto repair and modifications SHOULD be fun.... for me they are therapy from my day job.
 






IZwack, assuming your indulgence I want to post your excellent thread about the hydridized 4405:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=142207

The supplier today said FORD had some variously different parts in the 4405 depending on what engine it was mated behind. I'll have to delve further into that.... stronger parts??

Indeed..... Front output shaft (and therefore bearings and associated parts) as well as the speed sensor arrangement varied a lot between the 95, 96, and 97 model years. To my knowledge, the engine wasn't as big a factor as was the model year. As best I could tell from staring at the exploded diagrams a few months back, it appears that the rear drive components were virtually identical, but there's no way for me to know for sure. I suspect Omega Machine would have more info on that. I've tried extracting details from Borg-Warner directly, but not had much luck.

-Joe
 






Hey Glacier, I read your this thread and decided that anything you believe should be done is a go. I believe that anything suspect should definitely be taken care of. Let me know if you need to know anything else, otherwise thanks in advance for the rebuild!!
 






if i could my truck on a hoist do you think that i could spit the 4405 on the truck i only need to change the rear main bearing and seal ? it would save alot of time if i could.
 



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Removing the transfer case only takes between 1-2 hours. And it will be very difficult ligning up the shift rod and other parts with the transfer case in a horizontal position -- you really need it in a vertical position with the rear of the transfer case up and the front facing down.
 






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