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How to: BW 4405 Transfer Case Rebuild Diary - Comments, Questions and Input Thread

Prefix for threads which are instructional.
I fully agree. Pull it.
 



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I may be pulling my t-case in short order here... I'm trying to get a line-up on some parts... Does anyone sell a rebuild kit for the 44-05? I tried searching a bit online, but all anyone seems to list are assorted bits and pieces... I don't want to get into it and discover I can't get a part for two weeks as I'll be tying up a buddy's hoist for the duration of the job.

Mine's started the infamous buzzing on deceleration... Sounds like the typical shift rail bore issue...

Also, how much were the case halves from Omega Machine? I need to call them this week...

-Joe
 






I do not recall specifically, but I think they were about $300 for both. plus another $50 for the modified shift fork. A guy in Spokane WA sells rebuild parts and kits for some parts (like bearings) at reasonable prices...let me see if I have his email and I can post it......(looking)

Ok found it....http://www.tbtrans.com

Good luck....
 












I e-mailed RS gear... they wouldn't sell me a rebuild kit, only a rebuilt unit (for a whopping $995). Here was their response:

Hi Joe,

We can supply you with a reman unit that has been redesigned to get rid of the inherent design flaws. We rebush the cases with stainless steel sleeves to locate the shift rail correctly. We have redesigned the shift forks and created a custom shift cam which prevents side loading of the shift rails causing neutralization, grinding, and premature case wear at the shift rail bores. The grinding you are getting is caused by excess play in the range fork allowing the range sleeve to lose engagement with the input. A reman unit will cost you $995.00 plus a refundable $300.00 core charge. I will be back with you tomorrow with a freight quote.

I can sell you the parts to rebuild the unit, but there is substantial machine work we perform, which is beyond the average mechanic. This rebuilt will outlast the vehicle.

Best regards,

Mike

It'd be worthwhile if the thing didn't already have 150,000 miles on it... I don't need a case that'll outlast the truck, just one that'll work well.

I'll be calling Omega later today. I checked their web site yesterday, and they don't have the modified shift fork listed anymore... I wonder if they discontinued it?

-Joe
 






Love the forums. i used a bimmerforum for a while and got GRET results. this one seems good for my Truck

4405 diary - good stuff gents. thanks!

so - where do i get the diary?

1999 exploder XLT:

my 4405 is now shot as i have 2 diff sets of tires on the vehicle and the chain is way stretched. i have to replace that - all i am doing. simple job?
i had the clutch rebuilt a year ago but the chain has been hopping over the gear for 3 months. Ford dealer told me it was a flange in a front shaft at the wheel...!! i should ask them to rebuild this. i paid for that misdiagnosis. i also just learned that the guys who did the clutch broke the head off one of the bolts and RTV'd it inplace... nice work. i'll have to dig that one out somehow.

i have no press but have air tools and other stuff. am i good to go on this job? what else would you do while in there? i have to watch cost. i have the chain already.

is there any way that i can get wrong parts if i only ID the T-case as a BW 4405?
 






Folks I have the problem with drive disengaging and making a loud grinding noise both reverse and drive. switching to 4lo gets me home. I took it to a local repair shop and they checked both front and rear differentials and all ok. They feel it's the transfer case and from some threads I think it is also. I don't have time to rebuild but has anyone used or heard of someone using everdrive.com to buy a used t-case? Want an opinion on them
 






Torx Size to get case apart

Your diary is terrific. I'm just getting started. To get the case apart, a T-40 Torx bit seems too small, T-45 is too big. Can't find any size in between. I got most of bolts out with T-40, but am starting to strip 3 of them, and can't get them out. Do you rember what size bit you used. Thanks

This thread from this point on is where, as you read the 4405 Diary, you should post your comments, questions, point out mistajes, make suggestions and in general post things you might otherwise be tempted to post within the Diary itself.

Open season.

Example: "You mis-spelled 'mistakes' in your first sentence above dummy."
 






4405 clutch set up

I need to know the proper way to put the clutches and steels back in the 4405 T case drum. I had the drum with its contents set aside so it wouldn't get touched untill my son decieded to use the, let's see what's inside this thing idea, and dumped everything out on the work bench.

Also should I even have a 4405 in my 95 Xplorer?
It does have control track with the proper shift selector inside the truck.
 






Can't help much with the reassembly, but I know there are some exploded diagrams of it floating around out there...

And yes, your 95 should have a 44-05. All second-gen V-6s do, though there are several important changes that were made throough the generation... But in the end, they are all 44-05s.
 






Thanks gijoe...

The reason I doubted the t case being the right one was because glacier has in his diary that the 4405 was used in the xploreer starting in 96 and being that my manufacture date is 2/95...

With that said I am in no way bashing his diary thread. It's amazing and helped me out a lot! :)
 






I need to know the proper way to put the clutches and steels back in the 4405 T case drum. I had the drum with its contents set aside so it wouldn't get touched untill my son decieded to use the, let's see what's inside this thing idea, and dumped everything out on the work bench.
In response to this and your PM:

I dont know exactly which of the two clutch designs goes at the "bottom" of the stack - but I think you can figure it out from this picture since they just alternate. So just start from the top with the one with the teeth at the outside, then under that is the one with the teeth on the inside, and then repeat.

friction_plate.jpg


EDIT:

In addition, this is the inside of the "drum" - notice the "lip" at the bottom of the drum. This probably means that the clutch with the teeth on the outside is at the bottom since the clutch with the teeth on the inside would leave a gap due to the "lip".

DSCN1478.jpg
 






That'll do

Ohhh, now that explains it! The bottom pic with your explanaion surely makes sense and I'm sold.

You guys do such a great job on here! I hope you know how much you all are appreciated!

Thanks a ton!
Mark
 






Does the cup yoke for the front drive shaft just pull out of the transfer case assy. or is it held in the case with a retainer? I have a 2003 explorer AWD and have a front drive shaft seal leak in the transfer case, and would like to know if I can disconnect the drive shaft and pull the yoke out of the transfer case while in the vehicle and change the seal for the front drive shaft? I can't tell by the picture,how the yoke is retained in the transfer case.
Thanks !
Richard A. Ringenbach
 






No shaft just "pulls out" of a 4405 after external anything... They are all retained inside.
 






Glacier, where was your source for the little plastic inserts for the range fork? I'm also looking for somebody that has the "accordion" (wave spring ;) ) washer. Thanks to the 4405 Rebuild diary thread I got my 4405 split apart and found the pieces of the fork inserts in the bottom, and the wave spring was in about 4 pieces.

The fork shaft is just starting to oval the bores in the case halves, so I'm trying to decide if it's worth my time to machine them and add a bushing. Do you think the updated fork from Omega was worth $60?
 






i have had the same prob

2 within a year and before i put it back together wanted to know if there is somethin im not doing or if its just my luck. the plastic inserts on the fork r pretty much completely gone and the collar has metal from the fork melted to it. i am wondering if where i went wrong was smoothin out the collar myself and not gettin a new one, maybe still a lil metal on it. any help would be muchly appreciated i dont feel like doing it again in another three months, i have had my trans and trans case out 4 times in the past 2 years.
 






Does anyone know if the Input Shaft seal on the Transfer Case can be replaced without taking the case apart?

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
 






Well I ordered my parts, They came in yesterday, (seals, bearings, fork, collar) Dropping the TC tommorrow, Wish me luck!
 



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Does it matter where you start disassembling the TC from the drive-lines and input?
 






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