Brakes wont work after draining fluid????

[Positive Vibes]

Okay sorry for the confusion.
I wonder if we could get the specs on the length from the factory based on the 91-94 and the 95+, see if there is a difference.

Nevermind....hahaha I will measure off my stock 96 if you measure on your truck PV before you adjust it...
(length of the pushrod from the edge of the booster)
this will tell us how far out you SHOULD turn it, instead of all by feel.

Thanks Rick. Just got off the phone with the stealership. They say, there is no way to adjust it. I said I have a photo of it right in front of me. He talks to the tech. Nope no way to adjust it. Is it only adjustable on after market ones? He stated the ones that ford makes have "NO" adjustability. Either way they don't want to work on it anymore.

Sounds like a plan 410, if I have time tonite I will measure it.

 

[410Fortune]

Once its fixed go back and show them with pictures you take while fixing it
Brett is one smart dude, he usually figures this stuff out before anyone else.

I know by adjusting mine it makes a BIG difference with pedal feel, just a couple of turns = WOW.

I spent all day driving, braking, removing the master, bolting it back on until I got it just right. I tested it again the other night when some moron pulled right out in front of me, YUP still works fine, even with 35's......

 

[Rick]

Thanks Rick. Just got off the phone with the stealership. They say, there is no way to adjust it.

The dealer would not have any reason to adjust it so they just don't know the facts... My brake booster was and still is bone stock... except for the adjustment I made to it

 

[410Fortune]

they should be checking the adjustment when a new brake booster or master cyl is installed...I would imagine they change out plenty of those

 

[Rick]

They probably just bolt them in and don't check a thing... Just because they're dealer mechanics doesn't mean they are conscientous and good mechanics

 

[Positive Vibes]

Ok pulled the MC out and meassured the push rod. It sticks out just a tad under a inch.

 

[410Fortune]

so 7/8" or 15/16"? hahaha

Did you try adjusting it?

 

[Positive Vibes]

so 7/8" or 15/16"? hahaha

Did you try adjusting it?

LOL! No its just a hair under an inch.

No I didn't try adjusting yet, was hoping someone might have a rough measurement to start with.

 

[410Fortune]

I will unbolt my MC tonight and measure. I'll use a scale and give you the dimension in MM
??

 

[Positive Vibes]

I will unbolt my MC tonight and measure. I'll use a scale and give you the dimension in MM
??

Cool. Thanks. I just got to thinking. I didn't need to disconnect the brake lines, did I? Oh well, live and learn.

 

[TheRookie]

Signing up for what measurement is used on the 95 cylander. Verry curious.

 

[Anibal_baja]

Hello..... i Just got this info regarding the lenght of the push rod, it is on the Haynes manual Ford explorers 1991 thru 2001 (Brakes chapter). PLEASE, check the Haynes manual, while i may misstyped some words.

Sorry about the pic's poor quality.... the important information is: push rod lenght should be between 24.89 and 25.27 mm (0.980 and 0.995 inch).

A gauge can be made with a piece off sheet metal. According to Haynes manual, some push rods can be adjusted, some not, but you can check anyway.

The procedure is:"... unbolt the MC and place aside, do not disconect the lines"... (of course, also do not bend them). ..."Apply vacuum to the booster with a hand held vacuum pump, then place the gauge against the end of the push rod, exerting a force of approximately 5 punds to seat the push rod into the booster"... (i don't know how to they check this force or if they refer to the vacuum force). "The rod lenght must fall in some where between the max and min distance. If it doesn't, adjust length by turning the end of rod, holding the knurled portion with pliers."

I hope this info to be useful.... but, if working on ABS is so messing.... why don't take it to a specialized shop??

 

[TheRookie]

Thanks for the tip. What we are talking about here is a little different though I think. What is being discussed is adjusting the rod to compensate for retrofitting disc brakes on a system they were not designed to be on. I do believe your post implies that the rods on the second gen and first gen are the same. I believe that what there may be to learn from that is using the 95 master cyl is a better choice as it may have a different internal difference

 

[inthewind]

92 XLT had leaking rear brake hard lines, replaced hardlines and master cyl. now no fluid flow to rear bakes, lines are not crimped.

 

[Positive Vibes]

92 XLT had leaking rear brake hard lines, replaced hardlines and master cyl. now no fluid flow to rear bakes, lines are not crimped.

Ummmm, not sure what to say. Wish I had a pic of the bunny with a pancake on his head.

 

[410Fortune]

well I put a 95 master on my BII and my rear discs started working.
I ran them for about 2 years with a 93 Explorer master cylinder on my truck and they would drag. You could hear them drag and the pads wore out every 5 months or so.
Ever since I did the rear master I have had the same rear pads on. the increase in performance was noticable, especially in low range 4x4ing and towing.
I also adjusted my pushrod out about 2-3 full turns I believe because the fronts were locking up way too soon. Now it takes ALOT more pedal to get any of them to lock up, but I can lock all 4 if I jamb on it.

 

[Positive Vibes]

I'm still d!$king with this.

Adjusted the push rod in and out. No major difference in pedal pressure. I could tell when I had it adjusted to far out. So what should I do now people? Any ideas?

 

[410Fortune]

still spongy pedal?
does it go to the floor?
When you come to a stop, can you then slowly press the pedal down, you should be able to a bit but it should be firm.

 

[Positive Vibes]

still spongy pedal?
does it go to the floor?
When you come to a stop, can you then slowly press the pedal down, you should be able to a bit but it should be firm.

There's my happy helper!

Yes its soft and slowly goes to the floor. I can stop. I can drive it but if I ever needed to stop quickly it wouldn't be a pretty site.

I'm gonna bleed the puppies again but other than that I'm out of ideas. I may move the push rod back to the original position cause it felt the best there. That would only be like a turn and a half.

 

[ma96782]

Yes its soft and slowly goes to the floor. I can stop. I can drive it but if I ever needed to stop quickly it wouldn't be a pretty site.

I'm gonna bleed the puppies again but other than that I'm out of ideas. I may move the push rod back to the original position cause it felt the best there. That would only be like a turn and a half.

Like any vehicle: If there are no leaks at the wheel cyl or disc calipers or along the lines.....and you've alread did the bleed......IMHO, the next suspect is the master cyl.....after that, the vac. booster.

Aloha, Mark