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Camshaft position sensor shot?

BlingNGasoline

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City, State
Morristown, New Jersey
Year, Model & Trim Level
01 Sport
My explorer was making a screaching noise for a coupple months, then the engine check light came on. Had it scanned, it said something about the camshaft position sensor. I had the choice of having diagnostics done or just replace the sensor and shaft over $200 in parts.(i have $0 to spare) I am going with the replacement on tuesday. Did i make a good choice or is it likely to be something else?

Thanks,
Mike
 



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The screeching was the shaft running dry (common problem. they redesigned the shaft). If it didn't wipe out the sensor, all you'll need is the shaft.

The sensor is a hall effect design held on to the shaft. Unplug it, pull it off and take a look.
 






how does it run dry, will it happen again? and if i take it off will need an alignment tool?
 






BlingNGasoline said:
how does it run dry, will it happen again? and if i take it off will need an alignment tool?
Yes, you need the tool. The shaft is very similar to a distributor in that it drives the oil pump via a hex shaft it slides onto. Unlike a distributor though, the pulses from the hall sensor time the fuel injectors. Improperly aligned,( synched) you can scorch a piston.
I had a hard time findin the tool, finally found one I could borrow ( long story).
Some guys will say it doesn't really matter, but I am here to tell you it very much does.
If you mark it very well with a scribe, at every motion point, ( intake manifold, shaft housing,internal housing to shaft , you might get lucky and lube the shaft with white lithium and reinstall it. It really depends on how chewed up the bushing is.If I was broke, oh yeah I am broke, yeah this is what I'd try. Mark it real good, if you need a new one, you'll probably need to find the tool, about 35.00
Sorry, I don't know the number
Go for it and let me know
 


















$400 later its fixed

here is the shaft

DSC02957.JPG


shouldnt it have not worked if it was that bad?
 






I replaced just the sensor and not the shaft. I had the exact same conditions you described, Squealing for several weeks but could never pin point it. When it finally faulted I pulled the code and inspected the sensor (easily removed, one screw and wire connector). I found that it had shattered inside and the magnet and plastic parts were getting stuck against the shaft and causing the squeal. Take caution to remove ALL magnet fragments (this took quite a while as the clearance is tight and all metal).

The sensor only route is less work and less expensive. I would check the condition of it prior to your purhchase and then decide which route you need to take. goodluck
 






The shafts are infamous for a lack of oiling, wearing out the shaft bearing and wiping out the sensor.

You can tell from the pic that's what happened to his. Sensor replacement only would not have worked.
 












No. Nada. Zip. Zilch.
 






while we are on this subject, does anyone know where a replacement plug for the sensor can be obtained, mine is broken and doesn't lock anymore.
 






I have a 1995 XLT 4.0L OHV, and I'm suspicious that my CAM Shaft Sensor is also the root of many of my probelms. I haven't been able to find where it is on the explorer yet. Do I need to take off the intake manifold to see it? I know from other posts that it is on top of the engine near the firewall. How do I know if the shaft has also been smoked?
Thanks
 






The manual shows it's on the drivers side valve cover. There is no synchroniser shown for 4.0 L SOHC.

Roy
 






My Explorer... not SOHC

Roy,
My Explorer isn't an SOHC, it is the OHV 4.0L. My Damn Chliton Manual is worthless. Accroding to Chilton, the sensor should be where the distributor cap should be in the front of the engine near the thermostat housing (traditional location for Ford Distributor) but nothing is there. Can't figure it out. I'll take some pictures.
 












Just to add to this one, I took my C.P.S. off today, took me 3 hrs. and a sore back. You, at the least, have to take off the intake plenum, still a pain to get at. Its way back/down there, no room to work, I had to use a mirror during the whole process just to see it. Just make sure you have the #1 cylinder at TDC, and get the alignment tool suggested. Once you got the top of the sensor off, and the retaining bolt off, the sensor itself just pulls up and off. I just cleaned it , re-lubed it with some silicone spray and also lubed the orings with some silicone grease. I'm putting it back tomorrow, after a few bruskies.
I hope this helps someone.
 






Well, I put it back today. Took me 1 hour just to get the retaining bracket and bolt in place. I tried a small telescopic magnet with no luck. Finally I was able to get it done with two fingers a mirror and lots of patience, no rushing here. After that, everything else was fairly easy, sort of. Just make sure that the electrical connection ends up pointing the same way as when you removed it. The way the oil pump gear is design, you have to insert it further to the left and it"ll rotate into place as it goes in.
Use new plenum rubber gaskets, 3 of them for a 4.0, clean everything up to avoid any leaks.
If you did everything right, didn't forget any lose wires, she should start right up, like mine did!!
A few pointers: Lots of patience; You will need a good size telescopic mechanics mirror made of metal, A small miners light, a bright one is a big help, I bought it a Advance for $18.00. A telescopic magnet, you will need it when you drop things behind the engine block.
Good luck to anyone doing this.
 






Rocketboy

If you still haven't been able to find some good information regarding the location of the Cam Sensor, check out this thread stsrted by 410Fortune. He was swapping a 97 engine into a 95 and took some EXCELLENT pics of the sensor once the engine was out.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=151705

BTW, since you have the 95, you have a one year only Cam Sensor that will not fit any other motor (unless you want to swap the cam also). It is a single unit and you can not replace the hall effect switch like you can on the 96 and up models. Sorry to say it's going to cost you anywhere from $400.00 for a rebuilt off of e-bay, to $900.00 for a new unit from Ford. (that's parts cost, not installed)

I had a 95 with a bad cam sensor, and it was the last straw that made me decide to sell the truck and get a newer model that could be repaired a lot cheaper. Wait till you need a crank sensor..... $28.00 for a 96 and up EX and $250.00 for one that fits a 95.
 



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