Can I make the 4.0 fast enough?

[410Fortune]

Sure you take a 5.0L MAS body and sensor, find somebody who has the ability to calibrate the sensor for the OHV's 19# injectors. CHip makers, speed shops, Mustang shops. You will have to research.
If you but many aftermarket MAS sensors, 70MM or what have you, this is all they have done., My granatelli unit is nothing more then a 5.0L that this has been done too, was like $200 from truckperformance.com years ago.

You can make some phenolic spacers for the upper plenum to increase the runner length. Using a material like phenolic will also keep the upper intake cooler, as long as you are running the aluminum unit, this is WHY most upper intakes these days are plastic, cheaper to make and keeps the heat down for the incoming air, however they cannot be ported

 

[Josh]

I was just thinking out loud in text.LOL. I don't know, but my buddy is a journeyman(SP) welder maybe he would know.

 

[bates]

What about using something like Lexan or plexiglass or maybe acrylic? Do you think these would withstand the heat generated?

I'm gonna see if I can find a phenolic place online.

 

[unclemeat]

If you have a automatic and you are going to swap cams you may want to spend a little more money on a stall conveter that is calibrated for your cam. It will greatly improve your drivability and performance.

 

[SteveVB]

What about using something like Lexan or plexiglass or maybe acrylic? Do you think these would withstand the heat generated?

I'm gonna see if I can find a phenolic place online.

Ive never seen a spacer made from lexan or plexi- both would have heat problems I would think. The phenolic is fairly common though for intake spacers..

Something that might interest anyone whos thinking of making a spacer or other simple part. I downloaded the software and have been playing- a spacer wouldnt be hard to do. It allows you to design a part, specify tooling and price the part in various quantities and materials. Havent used them, but looks interesting.

Emachineshop

 

[410Fortune]

I had some phenolic psacers for my 2.9L, a guy was cutting them with a band saw and selling them on Fordranger.com, GREAT upgrade for that engine, I have been thinking of them for the OHV for some time, I cannot remember if there is something that will not allow me to do it...there might have been!! I dont know

 

[Josh]

The nice thing about an old fuel rail, is that you realy don't have to do anything special. Just go down to the junkyard and pick one up and get some longer bolts and do a little grinding. I think I paid 15 dollars at U Wrench It. I love that place. I finaly got my motor out, what a PITA. This is the last time this will happen! I thought this would be a good learning experience. Well I'm tired of learning. Would anybody care to teach themselves how to install a motor? You can practice in my garage.

410
Where did you put those spacers? Behind the TB, or between the upper and rail?

 

[bates]

How thick was your spacer? would hood clearance become an issue for those without body lifts?

Upon research, Lexan is only good until about 100 C or 212 F. I assume plexi is very similar.

 

[Josh]

There were no problems with the extra fuel rail

 

[bates]

How thick is the fuel rail?

 

[Josh]

Probably 5/8

 

[410Fortune]

I believe the spacers were 1/2" maybe little more. The main purpose is to slightly increase the length of the plenum runners and seperate the aluminum upper intake from the lower, keeping the upper cooler.

The spacers mount between the upper and lower intakes. ON a 2.9L it was a very simple design, should be similar for the 4.0L as well.
Hood clearance was not an issue, if it was I would raise the hood at the hinges , use a cowl scoop, or a slight body lift, anything for a few extra ponies.

 

[Josh]

Well, I got my new motor in finaly. I added the BBK ceramic headers along with a 410 Comp Cam. I am not impressed at all with the gains. Yea it feels a little better, but I was expecting more. I used the stock push rods, could that be an issue? There is no valve train noise at all. I have all bolt ons that I know of. What do you guys think? I only put the headers on because I plan to install an Eaton M-62 down the road. Everything thing I have is in my sig.

 

[SteveVB]

What gears do you run?
everything works together tires, gearing, transmission, engine.

what are the rpms at various speeds that you see on the speedo?

I cant see your sig- auto or manual? If auto did you change the stall in the converter?

If not and the gears arn't matched to the tires you could have a bit of a mismatch in the drivetrain.(gears,tires,converter)

Also, You may want to take it in for a tune- have someone dyno it to see what the engine is doing- have a chip calibrated for the set up depending on what you find.

 

[Josh]

I got a set of 3:73s from another truck. Its an auto trans and I havent done anything with the torque converter. In order to change the stall, I would have to get a custome one correct? How would you match everything?

 

[Ronin8002]

Josh, you might try longer pushrods. I think with the stock pushrods you aren't getting the right amount of valve lift that the 410 is supposed to provide, so the only thing that has changed is valve duration.

5.50 to 5.55 is the correct length range you want to go with. Smith Bros. can make em for you..... www.pushrods.net

edit: I searched around for a bit and compcams recommends 5.525 for the 410

 

[Ronin8002]

Yes you would have to get a modified converter....I think www.protorque.com makes one for the a4ld. Get your truck dynoed before you get another converter though....the stall speed would ideally be around the RPM where you make peak torque.

And like Steve said....a good dyno tune and chip couldn't hurt

 

[SteveVB]

Josh-

Remember that the 410 cam pushes the torque peak up maybe 250-300 rpm, and the headers will push it up a bit more- lets say total 300 rpm.
Basically Im saying that the drivetrain needs to match. If you dyno the engine you can get the peak torque rpm and max efficiency rpm(usually about 80*peak torque rpm) and then design the drivetrain around it.
If not extrapolate from the stock specs using 3.73s and stock tires to get cruise rpms and then add in 300 rpm to get an "ideal" cruise rpm pick gears based on that rpm number which corrospond to your tire diameter.
I dont think 3.73s are enough gear- I ran 4.10s with 31s and it could have used a bit more. Ideal was in the 4.20s I think. With 33s I would guess a minimum of 4.56's and more likely 4.88s, if you add the blower then you may get away with less gear as more torque is available at lower rpms.

Gearing makes a big difference in drivability, and my mileage went up a slight amount since the engine was running in a more efficient rpm range, or so I suspect. I would guess with the 33s 4.56 would be a minimum gear I would install.

 

[Josh]

Thanks guys! My tranny is not shifting right now either. It shifts at around 4200 from 1st to 2nd. 2nd to 3rd is OK, but OD is not working at 55. I think I may have a vacum leak or maybe the modulator on the tranny is going. When we were putting in the motor, some fluid came out, but we couldn't figure from where. I will get the longer push rods in about a week. Oh yea, what is the diameter? 5/16?

 

[Ronin8002]

yes, I believe 5/16 is correct