Code #556 need a hand here (please)

[zee1b]

Hi Ya'll,

Need to give you the history first, 6 months ago we installed a new fuel pump (complete), fuel filter, and did a full tune-up on the engine, the x had been sitting for over a year before i purchased it.

Saturday about 10 miniutes from my house it felt as if the ignition cut off (twice within a few seconds) then it just stopped running all together.
When going to start it it would just try to start (start and stall).

We towed the x home and after about 1/2 hour it started up but only stayed running for about 5 min. If engine is cold it will run for 10miniutes then may idle erratic for a few sec. then stalls and will only start for approx 1 second every time you turn key over.

Lastnight i installed another fuel pump because a friend of mine came over with a matco code reader and it said primary and secondary fuel pump circut. He said that the pump had gone out again. I was so damn happy because the truck ran for about 10miniutes then it happened again it stalled out. I didnt go to work today because of no way to get there (not a good thing). The code that it is bringing up is CODE 556 and at the end i get the 111. It it the fuel pump or the fuel pump relay circut that is 556 and where do i go from here to get my x back on the street. Any and all help will be appreciated.

I had forgot to mention that we did replace the fuel pump relay also,

Thanking You in Advance,
Chuck zee1b@aol.com

 

[manaen]

did you test/replace the fuel pump relay?

 

[zee1b]

code 556 problem

I forgot to mention the replacement of the fuel pump relay. Sorry about that and thank you for the reply,
Chuck

 

[manaen]

I would also check things like the Coil Pack. Your problem may not even be a fuel delivery problem. When coils start to go they tend to work when cold and then fail as they warm up. You can test it with an ohm meter. Generally for problems like this test it cold and then let it fail and test it again. You can also swap it out with a junk yard replacement to see if there is improvement.

Did you check the fuel pressure to see if you have any when the truck fails to run?

 

[MrShorty]

Relay and pump are only two components in the fuel pump circuit. I had an intermittent no start that I traced down to a broken wire between the fuel pump fuse and the relay. Did you check the fuse? Did you check the inertia switch? From there, I'd get a wiring diagram and a voltmeter, start at the battery, and follow the fuel pump circuit until the voltage drops (Ground the fuel pump test lead in the self test connector to close the fuel pump relay). Where the voltage drop is is where the problem is.

 

[zee1b]

I just ran the truck again and it did the same thing (of course) but when i pulled up the codes is gave me a 556 and then a 543 this time (last time it gave me a 556 and a 111)!

Code 543 reads as follows;
Fuel pump monitor circuit shows no power (M) (Service 556 code first if present) Fuel pump relay or battery power feed was open.
Where do i go from here, now that i have this "new" code?
is there anyway that i can install a jumpers somewhere just to get back and forth to work? (20miles each way)?

Mr. Shorty- i am not sure what fuse is for the fuel pump, i think that somewhere on this site it said that it is #1 fuse (on the box it says that one is ignition), the enertia switch is still pushed in-could an enertia switch be giving me these problems? I am really at a loss here and wont be able to get it to a shop for a while if i cant fix it $$.

Thank You all again, I know that your time is valuable to you and i really do appreciate you taking the time to help me, when i get more familiar with this vehicle i hope to be able to pay it forward.
Chuck

 

[manaen]

It's not the fuse or the truck would not run at all.

As stated your next step is to trace the wires from the relay to the pump testing for power at each connection point. Make sure that you clean all the connections with contact cleaner and apply liberal amounts of dielectric grease to all the connections to keep them from corroding. At this point it sounds like you have a short/break in the wire somewhere on the way to the pump.

 

[zee1b]

IT IS ALIVE AGAIN!,

Lastnight after going through the replies that Y'all sent and trying to add it up (i am really not good with computer controled vehicles. The E.C.C. Fuse, i read somewhere on this site about the eec fuse and the code 543 fuel pump relay circut open.

Well anyway i replace the E.C.C. fuse this morning and the truck ran for 55 miniutes without a problem! Could this relay have been the only thing that was wrong in the first place? The Explorer is happy again.
Thanks to you all again,
Chuck

 

[MrShorty]

Well anyway i replace the E.C.C. fuse this morning and the truck ran for 55 miniutes without a problem! Could this relay have been the only thing that was wrong in the first place?

As the old saying goes, "Never look a gift horse in the mouth." If it runs, great, and it is hard to diagnose a problem that doesn't exist anyway. Even though the EEC fuse could cause a no start/stall, I doubt it would trigger a KOEO 556. Gut feel is that, in the process of changing the EEC fuse, you wiggled/bumped/jostled the component/connection that was bad so that it is making more consistent contact. If you pull codes now, is the 556 (or 543) still present?

 

[Turdle]

As the old saying goes, "Never look a gift horse in the mouth." If it runs, great, and it is hard to diagnose a problem that doesn't exist anyway. Even though the EEC fuse could cause a no start/stall, I doubt it would trigger a KOEO 556. Gut feel is that, in the process of changing the EEC fuse, you wiggled/bumped/jostled the component/connection that was bad so that it is making more consistent contact. If you pull codes now, is the 556 (or 543) still present?

I had this similar issue with my 98 mounty. It turned out to be loose "plugs" in the power distribution box. The fuse--relay connections were flaky.

I dug into it and squeezed the lugs with some pliers to make them fit tighter--problem solved!!

 

[zee1b]

Mr Shorty You are correct, Now that i have gotten to work and e-mailed Ya'll that it was all set it is now dead again. My X has the fuse's and the relays all on top (not like the color coded ones) Now what i must do is take the distrubution box off and inspect all of it.

Is there a way to run a jumper wire to the fuel pump relay to get this vehicle home tonight? Only to get it home- i have family that is going to be at my house for supper!
If i get it home, it will stay there until i can work on it saturday (and probably sunday!

Thanks again everyone,
Chuck

 

[MrShorty]

Is there a way to run a jumper wire to the fuel pump relay to get this vehicle home tonight?

Yes, there is, but I'm not sure how best to do it without knowing exactly where the break in the fuel pump circuit is. In a real pinch, it might be easiest to go from battery direct to fuel pump. Or ground the fuel pump test lead and wiggle components/wires until the pump comes on.

 

[zee1b]

We removed the fuel pump relay, turned ignition to the on/run position and with a test light found the two locations that have power (where the fuel pump relay belongs), made a jumper wire and plugged it in and we now have a working fuel pump again.

I believe that the thing needed to do is to pull the distribution box off and clean all connection. Should i take the distrbution box apart? Could the enertia switch be making this happen and how do you test it if so? As of yet i have not gotten a book on the truck, (it will have to wait until next week). Does anyone know if there is a wiring diagram for the fuel system on this site (or on the net for that matter)?


Thanks again for all the help everyone,
Chuck

 

[MrShorty]

Does anyone know if there is a wiring diagram for the fuel system on this site (or on the net for that matter)?

It's been a long time since I've used it, but I believe autozones website has a free electronic version of Chiltons available (you have to register with their site, but it's supposedly free). I've found those wiring diagrams adequate.

Should i take the distrbution box apart?

I probably wouldn't at this point. If further diagnosis indicates that the problem is somewhere inside the box, then take it apart.

Could the enertia switch be making this happen and how do you test it if so?

It's possible, though I don't know if I'd call it likely in this case. Usually when the inertia switch "opens" to cut off power to the pump, you would have to press the reset button to get it to go again. For further info on the inertia switch, there used to be (I hope it's still there) a nice article in the tech library at therangerstation.com

 

[manaen]

Now what i must do is take the distrubution box off and inspect all of it.

be sure when you pull everything apart clean all the contacts with a wire brush and spray contact cleaner. AS turdle said use a plyers to tighten up all the push type connectors so they make better contact. Then before you put all the fuses and relays back in there coat all the clips/connections with dielectric grease. once you have the distribution box cleaned up if the problem still exists then move onto the next leg of the wiring. You need to approach this systematically and not jump all over the place, test one thing at a time. Remember wiring problems almost always occur at the connections and bends. Usually you do not need to pull apart the wiring harness, although I have seen the rare occasion where the insulator on the wire cracks and gets moisture inside which corrodes off a wire from the inside (you will be able to feel this by bending the wire it will be stiff and brittle).The distro box is a great place to start because it is all connections and exposed to the salt and road grime. When you pull a connector look at the contacts they should always be clean with no greenish coating. If it does not look like a new peice of copper then there is oxidation and oxidation is your enemy!!

I cannot tell you how many times I have fixed seeming sensor problems by cleaning up a connector. Electricity needs resistance free connections to flow, corrosion adds resistance. When you are only pushing 12v (5v in the PCM) it does not take that much resistance to limit the flow. Dielectric grease is an important part of reducing oxidation by sealing connections from the air and moisture that will cause them to oxidize.

All I am saying is pay attention to the details it is extremely important.