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colindo94 fullwidth swap

Well it's about time to start collecting the parts I need for the swap. I wiil be using a Dana 44 front axle and a fullsize 8.8" rear end from a 89 fullsize bronco. please give me any kind of insight on what I plan to use. All commentary is wanted:)

Edited with final parts
Dana 44 from 76 f-150
-78-79 coil spring towers spaced out with 3x4 steel
-Wildhorse crawler 5.5" coil springs.
-F-250 shock towers
-5.13 Yukon ring and pinion
-Master overall kit.
-Warn primium hubs.
-Cage offroad radius arms.
-78-79 stock tie rod
-Explorer stock drag link
-custom trackbar with heims. Bottom heim is a 3/4" heim and top is a 5/8" heim with 1.5" .25 wall DOM.
-Stock 76 f-150 trackbar bracket welded to a 3/16" plate of steel.
-7* C bushing kit.
-Bilstein 14" travel 5100 shocks
-Open Differential for now
-Timkin wheel bearings and seals.
-All new disk brakes and custom stainless steel brakelines

Fullwidth 8.8 from a 88 bronco
-5.13 Yukon ring and pinion
-Master install kit.
-weld on spring perches/ u bolts/ shock mounts. mountainoffroad.com
-custom shackles that are the same length of warrior shackles.
-skyjacker Add-a-leaf
-Lockright
-new drums with stock fullsize bronco e-brake cables and custom frame bracket.
-skyjacker extended brakeline for explorer.
-extended diveshaft with 1310/1330r basterd u-joint.

Wheels and tires
-36x12.5" TSL Radials
-15x8" black steel rockcrawler wheels.
 


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lifeguard379

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hay. my buddy is going to look in his tools at work and see if he has the tap you need.
i was also wondering if you got your speed to read right? and where did you get the gear for it. thanks
 


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DB_1

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For the tap you can try:http://www.mcmaster.com/

On the tube adapters, i've always welded with the shanks threaded in the adapters and only about an inch at a time. Worked good for the 8 tube adapters I had to weld for my links.
 








colindo94

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I got the steering all worked out. A buddy of mine works over at Inchworm and they had the correct tap. Thanks for your guys help.
Burns- If you look back in my thread there are a few pics, but I'll take new ones for you if they arn't the ones you need. WHat do you have in mind? Are you cookin up new ideas for your Ex?
 




Burns

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I got the steering all worked out. A buddy of mine works over at Inchworm and they had the correct tap. Thanks for your guys help.
Burns- If you look back in my thread there are a few pics, but I'll take new ones for you if they arn't the ones you need. WHat do you have in mind? Are you cookin up new ideas for your Ex?

Yes i do have some ideas for my Ex.

Something in my front end is binding up and im not acchiving the flex im seeing with others with almost identical set up.

I have the thought that my ra's are binding up. I am currently using the stock radius mounts for the frame end. There mounted right up on the frame and i think thats my prob.....Im going to superflex joints this winter. Just doing some checking on others set up.
 




colindo94

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Any ideas for a rear leaf setup that doesn't involve me getting a custom pack built? Like a lot of guys with toyotas and rangers are happy with 63" chevey springs. I think I've heard of someone using f-150 springs, but maybe not. If anyone has any good ideas I would love to hear them. I hate my stock springs, 1.5" block and extended shackles. ghetto fabbed back there. And I just snapped the shank on one of my shocks the other day:eek:
 




colindo94

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O and sorry for the wait burns, I amgoing to take pictures right now.
 




colindo94

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Here are the pictures you requested, Burns. There is a 6 degree pinion shim behind the bracket to square it up. I cut the other side of the bracket off because it was intended to be used with a boxed frame.

SAS_pics_0081.jpg

SAS_pics_0071.jpg
 








IZwack

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You sure you need that shim? I mean my thought is that the heim should makes up for that 6 degrees. After that, the heim only rotates on its threaded body axis when the vehicle is flexing.

Also, at extreme flex, I can kind of see the heim maxing out and applying rotational forces on the bracket and onto the chassis. Can't you just weld that bracket onto the chassis?
 




colindo94

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Here are a few more after the tierod over conversion and new trackbar setup.
SAS_pics_011.jpg

SAS_pics_0101.jpg


Here is the line Xed floor with the manual tcase installed. Still waiting on the doubleres to be ready so I can get that going.
SAS_pics_0121.jpg


Weekend carnage!!!!
SAS_pics_0091.jpg


And new tools!!!! Cage time after xmas.
SAS_pics_013.jpg

Homebuilt welding cart:) and finally I got a welder:)
SAS_pics_0141.jpg
 




colindo94

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Yea I suppose I could do that, but so far it seems to be working alright, but to be honest with you all I'm not to impressed with this radius arm suspension.
 








DB_1

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I'm with IZ on ditching the shims, do you have it bolted on the underside of the bracket as well? If not the bracket is gonna move around and eventually weaken that bracket and fail. I never was a fan of the brackets that come with those radius arms. As mentioned before, I think welding that bracket on is the best way to go given the size of it.
Here's some brackets like I have:http://kore4x4customs.com/asccustompages/products.asp?productID=90&categoryID=
Mine are actually the Polyperformance version which are 3/16" steel, I would have bought the 1/4" thick KORE brackets but at the time they were'nt available. Poly Performance also makes these brackets with an offset so you wouldn't have to use those shims if it bothered you that much.

EDIT: My bad, those brackets aren't available with offset, only the axle brackets are but i still believe you don't need shims.
 




colindo94

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No they are bilstein 5100's.
Yea the bracket is also bolted from the bottom of the frame. Yea I think I've found some brackets with a offset that would work. Thanks for the input.
 




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