How to: Convert V8 AWD to BW 4406 Manual Shift- A how to thread

[Busby1]

Just ordered everything to do my swap on my new to me 98 awd to 4406 manual t/c. Can’t wait to get it all in

 

[410Fortune]

You will love it
5.0 Explorer goes from soccer mom gas guzzler to pleasant to drive 4x4 truck
You will see less wear and tear on your front tires wheel bearings tie rods cv axles and ball joints, you will feel more passing power (kick down) and more power at the on ramp.
I love the 4406 conversion, the awd is cool, but true 4x4 in a Gen II 5.0L is better.

Let us know!

 

[Busby1]

Yes I have a 2001 2wd 5.0. Been wanting a 4x4, found this perfect condition inside and out and underneath. Went to test drive it , it runs and drives perfect but could tell a noticeable difference in power and ease of steering.

 

[CDW6212R]

I love the AWD traction I've had with two 98's, but the 2WD with no front drive shaft is different. I don't like the tires being so easy to spin, I'm used to mashing the gas at any time with AWD, and have no drama. That's a stock engine though, more power will make any truck more interesting to drive.

I'm hoping the BW4406 TOD transfer case will be in between 2WD and AWD. That will be dependent on how quickly the 4WD module reacts to traction issues. If it gets bad with enough power, a switch may be required to choose 4WD on the fly manually.

Collect your 4WD swap parts, but spend extra time on the front drive shaft. That front shaft has to be very well balanced and assembled right, to minimize vibrations.

 

[Busby1]

Actually that’s the only thing I haven’t bought yet. Is there a more specific year or style that works the best. I have everything else ordered other than the front drive shaft and u joint needed.

 

[CDW6212R]

This is the best thread to identify the parts needed for the project, so I'm sure you have read the main details.

Some people have reported vibrations with their front shafts. Most people have concentrated on just getting the right shaft length, essentially buying a used shaft from a 4.6 F150 etc. The length isn't a problem or an unknown, but the joint combination and joint conditions, plus balancing, is very important.

Given how sensitive these trucks are to vibrations from the front shaft, I would only use new joints, meaning replace every joint component, even the slip joint if it's sloppy that you can tell. I'd let a shop that does lots of drive shafts, decide those details.

That's why the factory trucks went to a CV joint in the front shafts, it solved vibration issues they had before. I believe there were some variance in the angles of the front shafts from the factory, of the 95-97's. Enough that the double cardon joint was not a solve all answer. The TC can't be changed much to alter the output shaft angle, but the front differential housing may be a little more.

Some people have reported being satisfied with all new shaft parts and the DC joint, and a couple of others mentioned changing trans mount and/or loosening/tightening the diff/mount bolts(to alter that angle a bit). I don't think it's completely known, just be ready to possibly play with the front shaft and pinion angles a bit.

 

[Busby1]

Thanks for the good info

 

[Busby1]

I’ve got a question. Are the mounting bolts for the awd case the same for the 4406 or do I need to get the bolts with the 4406

 

[CDW6212R]

Same six bolts. Try to get a few odd bolts and hardware, when you are at a junk yard. Projects like this often have you hunting odd bolts etc.

 

[Busby1]

What length should the front drive shaft be? I understand that it needs to be out of a 4.6 truck, but was just wondering if anyone knew exactly what length is best

 

[SWIGIN]

The truck front DS was way too long for me. I ended up with a first gen EX DS and added the 627 flange (I think that's the number) to it and it is perfect with no vibration.

 

[410Fortune]

If you end up with vibrations let us know I am 99% sure I know how to fix it. My friend Brett built a 98 Eddie with a 4406 E shift and it vibes at 55-65 mph in the front. He tried a few different solutions none of them removed the vibration completely. So I spent about a month researching this problem on top of the years of research Ihave done around these trucks I think I know why some of them vibrate and I am 99% sure I know how to fix it It has everything to do with the angle of the front driveline and it can be changed slightly to fix the vibrations.
I have not been able to test my theory yet......

For me I have converted 8 trucks to date that I can remember that did not vibrate, all of them using the 4406 manual and all of them are different, 3 are gen II explorers and similar the rest are conversions like rangers and sport tracs. The two trucks I know of with vibrations both occur at 55-65 mph and one of them is the E shift.

 

[Busby1]

If you end up with vibrations let us know I am 99% sure I know how to fix it. My friend Brett built a 98 Eddie with a 4406 E shift and it vibes at 55-65 mph in the front. He tried a few different solutions none of them removed the vibration completely. So I spent about a month researching this problem on top of the years of research Ihave done around these trucks I think I know why some of them vibrate and I am 99% sure I know how to fix it It has everything to do with the angle of the front driveline and it can be changed slightly to fix the vibrations.
I have not been able to test my theory yet......

For me I have converted 8 trucks to date that I can remember that did not vibrate, all of them using the 4406 manual and all of them are different, 3 are gen II explorers and similar the rest are conversions like rangers and sport tracs. The two trucks I know of with vibrations both occur at 55-65 mph and one of them is the E shift.

Thanks I will let you know.

 

[Busby1]

Transfer case came today. Turns out to be the xl34-7A195-AC which is apparently a 4406 manual shift with the torque on demand brown wire on it. I’m not sure how the torque on demand works. Kinda let down the deal I made on eBay was supposed to be for the whole shifter assembly including the ball, rod and, boot. Only thing inside was the transfer case and the lower linkage

 

[SWIGIN]

I cut the wire off since we don't need it. As long as the axles are turning when you pull the lever you can do it up to 60mph with no problem.

 

[Busby1]

I cut the wire off since we don't need it. As long as the axles are turning when you pull the lever you can do it up to 60mph with no problem.

Thanks

 

[410Fortune]

yes I also never hooked up the brown wire with my conversion

When you say "lower linkage" what do you mean? The hardest part to source is the shifter piece that bolts to the trans tailhousing, if your t case came with that then you are in good shape!
I am not sure a 4406 manual was ever made without that brown wire??

 

[Busby1]

yes I also never hooked up the brown wire with my conversion

When you say "lower linkage" what do you mean? The hardest part to source is the shifter piece that bolts to the trans tailhousing, if your t case came with that then you are in good shape!
I am not sure a 4406 manual was ever made without that brown wire??

Yes it’s the part that bolts to the transmission and the piece that links to the tc. I thought the brown wire is for a magnetic clutch, glad to know it’s un needed. Thanks for the help

 

[SWIGIN]

It is for the clutch but we still don't need it.

 

[CDW6212R]

The TOD version has a shift motor on the back of it, plus a few extra wires.
I don't know what that single wire would be, which is on all of them.