How to: Convert V8 AWD to BW 4406 Manual Shift- A how to thread

[abes.shop]

The transfer case 4406 is used behind the 4.6 not the 5.4 engine
MOST of the 5.4 trucks used a 4407 t case which is much larger

the 4.6L trucks still used the 4r70w automatic (1/2 ton) which is same as our 5.0 explorers
the 5.4 triton used the 4r100 auto which is a much larger 3/4 ton transmission and thus they have a larger t case the 4407

Those part numbers you listed I would use the one with the lowest miles

Ok thanks, now to buy the v8 explorer and the rest of the parts

 

[fastpakr]

Does anybody have info on the linkage adjustment procedure for the 4406? I think something must be out of whack on mine - all the pieces move smoothly but the entire assembly doesn't shift cleanly at all.

 

[abes.shop]

I have a question (it might be a dumb one) but why can't you use the factory Explorer front and rear drive shafts when doing the conversion to the 4406 t-case?

 

[CDW6212R]

I have a question (it might be a dumb one) but why can't you use the factory Explorer front and rear drive shafts when doing the conversion to the 4406 t-case?

The 4406 TC is bigger, and the output shaft flanges are located rearward farther for both. So both driveshafts have to be a different length than the stock ones.

 

[abes.shop]

The 4406 TC is bigger, and the output shaft flanges are located rearward farther for both. So both driveshafts have to be a different length than the stock ones.

Ok, that makes sense. Would the F150 donor rear drive shaft work since the front is needed from the donor or does it have to come from a Expedition/Navigator?

 

[CDW6212R]

The two mentioned shafts that work are correct because in those the distance of the front and rear shafts matched what the 4dr Explorer needs. The 5.4 make those a shorter rear shaft because those have a different/longer transmission. Whereas the 4.6 uses the same 4R70W trans, and the front shaft in those is the right length. I'm not sure how the F150's differ, because they haven't been mentioned earlier, they likely are different for both shafts.

 

[abes.shop]

The two mentioned shafts that work are correct because in those the distance of the front and rear shafts matched what the 4dr Explorer needs. The 5.4 make those a shorter rear shaft because those have a different/longer transmission. Whereas the 4.6 uses the same 4R70W trans, and the front shaft in those is the right length. I'm not sure how the F150's differ, because they haven't been mentioned earlier, they likely are different for both shafts.

The article said "1997-200? F150/Expedition front driveshaft (obviously from a 4x4) Must be from a 4.6 V8 equipped vehicle", but "1997-200? Expedition/Navigator 4x4 rear driveshaft. Suspension set up makes no difference that I can tell. Must be from a 5.4 V8 equipped vehicle. the correct length DS for our swap (34" yoke/yoke)"

 

[CDW6212R]

There it is, follow that recommendation. Those shafts should work, they will bolt in. The front one is the worrisome one, some people report minor vibrations. Install new u-joints into them, and check that they don't have any missing counter weights.

 

[ahodges]

The geometry is different between the transfer case and the front differential once you put the larger 4406 in. I was never able to make the front driveshaft out of the F150 work without vibration. I used a 91 - 96 Explorer front drive shaft with a flange conversion yoke in the double cardan U-joint with less vibration. I ultimately made a custom from pinon yoke/ flange and an adapter at the transfer case flange to recieve a stock 2015 F150 front driveshaft. I have had the most success with that but it still has a slight vibration over 70 mph. However, that design requires a lot of machining and cost.

 

[CDW6212R]

Thanks Andrew. I always thought it was the angles of the pinion and TC flange, but the double cardon joint is supposed to be able to handle that well. The CV joint seems to be the best method if it's strong enough. I noted while hunting front shafts years back, that there are only three CV drive shafts listed for Fords, for that special six bolt CV flange I guess. I haven't tried my built shaft using a 93 front DC shaft still, and I may not if I stick with the AWD TC.

 

[410Fortune]

I can fix the vibration with a custom transmission mount that moves the 4406 to the pass side 3/8"

Some F150 or expedition front shafts may also be about 1" too long, which can be removed from the slip yoke and be made to fit.
Finding good f150 or expedition driveshafts used can be a challenge, most scrappers dent them with the forklift.
Private party is a good source, ebay too.
Buying new the cost has gone WAY up. Summit/Speedway sells a nice wiy driveshaft kit in many styles and lengths I really like those for the price. Always use Spicer lifetime U joints......

I have done about 20ea 4406 conversions to date in Rangers and Explorers

 

[CDW6212R]

Thanks Jamie, that helps to know what the best answer to the front shaft vibration is.

One other question, can the trans rear extension be welded on? Can one of those be cut in half and welded to a front TC section for example? I'd like to find a late Ford 4WD TC that bolts to a 6R80 trans, and see about sectioning the front case, to weld to the back of a 4R70W extension. I'd like a BW 4406 or 4404 to be able to bolt onto the 6R trans.

 

[410Fortune]

and the 6r trans bolts to a pushrod small block?

I am sure the trans adapter can be welded on....... I am going to say yes, with a good mig setup for aluminum or a TIG.
I mean its just aluminum, not magnesium?
Several of the Ford transmissions I have owned over the years have had the cases or extension housings repaired with nice aluminum welds, not sure why the 4r70w would be any different.

When I ask Brett about running the 6 speed behind our 302/331/347 engines he tells me its not worth the $$$$$ it would take because the gearing is all wrong for the pushrods powerband. I know you said something about running like 3.08 to 3.27 ring and pinions would help?

The thinking here is its best to use the mod engine (2005-2011) along with the 6 speed likely end up being similar $$$ but much better performance?

I am sure you have all of these bases covered, but I love to discuss putting a 6, 8 or 10 speed behind the pushrod would be awesome!!

 

[abes.shop]

Do you have to make a custom trans mount to fix the front driveshaft vibration or can you just move the mounting holes over 3/8" towards the passenger side?

 

[abes.shop]

I can fix the vibration with a custom transmission mount that moves the 4406 to the pass side 3/8"

View attachment 340172
View attachment 340171


Some F150 or expedition front shafts may also be about 1" too long, which can be removed from the slip yoke and be made to fit.
Finding good f150 or expedition driveshafts used can be a challenge, most scrappers dent them with the forklift.
Private party is a good source, ebay too.
Buying new the cost has gone WAY up. Summit/Speedway sells a nice wiy driveshaft kit in many styles and lengths I really like those for the price. Always use Spicer lifetime U joints......

I have done about 20ea 4406 conversions to date in Rangers and Explorers

Do you have to make a custom trans mount to fix the front driveshaft vibration or can you just move the mounting holes over 3/8" towards the passenger side?

 

[CDW6212R]

and the 6r trans bolts to a pushrod small block?

I am sure the trans adapter can be welded on....... I am going to say yes, with a good mig setup for aluminum or a TIG.
I mean its just aluminum, not magnesium?
Several of the Ford transmissions I have owned over the years have had the cases or extension housings repaired with nice aluminum welds, not sure why the 4r70w would be any different.

When I ask Brett about running the 6 speed behind our 302/331/347 engines he tells me its not worth the $$$$$ it would take because the gearing is all wrong for the pushrods powerband. I know you said something about running like 3.08 to 3.27 ring and pinions would help?

The thinking here is its best to use the mod engine (2005-2011) along with the 6 speed likely end up being similar $$$ but much better performance?

I am sure you have all of these bases covered, but I love to discuss putting a 6, 8 or 10 speed behind the pushrod would be awesome!!

Thanks for telling me I can weld on the trans extension, I have a spare of that and I'll see about finding a cheap or damaged late model TC to use the front half of that case, to section and weld on.

I am sure you can handle the moderate work it takes to install the 6R80 onto any SBF. Someone makes a front adapter kit for about $700-$750, but the four TC stud extensions look really weak to me for mounting a TC 1/2" farther away from the engine. I saw people on Youtube etc, making a steel plate out of 1/4" and 3/8" steel. The trans bolt pattern is the same, that is, the holes are all there, but on modular engines they use two different ones, and the locating dowels, are where they need to be for a SBF(mounting bolts). So the plate is needed just to mount a starter, to locate it properly for a SBF. So the steel plate needs enough meat to cut 3/8" threads, I think I'd weld a thick quality nut at the holes for the starter bolts. So you arrange the mounting bolts, get the right lengths for those, make the adapter plate, and order a TC with the studs longer to match the new plate.

The trans mount is close to where a 4R mounts, but it needs a little altering also. The TC's bolt directly to the later transmissions, so either you use the late TC and whatever controls them, or make an extension using a late TC front half case, welded to the back part of a 4R trans extension. The shaft I don't know yet how close it is for length or spline count.

The six speed gears are generally like the five speeds, with one lower gear to start with. So the 2nd gear is not far from where the 4R and 5R have their 1st gears. They are a close ratio six speed, get the 1st gear final drive ratio set well for the engine, and it will be great through the whole range of speeds. High gear is still 0.70:1, so a 3.27 gear would have cruising rpm nice and low, under 2000rpm at 70mph.

Late model cars have stock rear gears like 3.15:1 or 3.31:1, most people suggest those two are almost equal in performance for stock or moderate level engines. So for the older cars, I think anything in the 3.08 to 3.27 range would be good, I wouldn't want 3.55's unless the engine was under powered, say 160hp like the OHV 4.0 V6.

For a stock 3.7 in my 4500lbs 99 Limited, the 3.27's might be a good gear, for it might get sold to a friend for mail delivery. For my 98 Black Coal project truck, with big power, the 3.08's would be more than enough. I need to find out how hard those factory front diff gears are to buy.

 

[410Fortune]

and you will use US shift controller?
Stock PCM programmed to forget about auto trans for the engine?

I see you are making much progress towards actually doing this!
It took me one month to get a set of 4.56 Yukon gears for the LSA IFS D35 carrier I am working on and the master install kit has yet to arrive... I have never seen a 3.08 gearset on these trucks, my BII came stock with 3.27 in the old 7.5 and D28 TTB HAHAHAHAHAHA
Dang covid delays have become the new normal

 

[fastpakr]

I have done about 20ea 4406 conversions to date in Rangers and Explore

Have you run into any that wouldn't shift properly? I'm wondering if I've got something wrong with the linkage on my '99 Ranger. I can move the shifter at the case and it's very firm but does move properly. But the linkage itself is not smooth at all.

 

[CDW6212R]

and you will use US shift controller?
Stock PCM programmed to forget about auto trans for the engine?

I see you are making much progress towards actually doing this!
It took me one month to get a set of 4.56 Yukon gears for the LSA IFS D35 carrier I am working on and the master install kit has yet to arrive... I have never seen a 3.08 gearset on these trucks, my BII came stock with 3.27 in the old 7.5 and D28 TTB HAHAHAHAHAHA
Dang covid delays have become the new normal

The US shift controller is about $1300 total to operate the 6R or one of the newer ones(8 or 10).

Yes I've thought through the process while doing other things, and recently the timing cover R&R of my white 98. That job is bad when all of the right bolts are there and let go. I had one break and one that was the wrong thread pitch(thankfully they didn't run it in hard and damage the threads). The cover didn't break, it had been off, there was a new timing chain set in there. But the cover surface wasn't very clean or flat, and the coolant surfaces were a little lower than the rest(which clamps the gasket less). So I spent a lot of time cleaning and filing on the cover to make it better. It thankfully doesn't leak and I think it'll last until the next water pump goes out.

Everything is slow now to buy, supplies are low and it'll take a long time to recover the inventories they used to have. I have a set of the parts to rebuild a front D35, I think I have them all. I was aiming to rebuild a couple here soon, including learning how to set up the gears.

 

[410Fortune]

I keep a new timing cover in stock for these 5.0's I get them off Ebay, Mexico reproductions, usually around $100
That way when I have to do that job and I ***** up the old cover prying it over the broken stud(s) I do not have delays waiting for the part.
If I get a good 5.0 cover I keep those too.......

$1300!!!!! OUCH
Brett is US shift dealer so when you are ready can likely get a slight discount.
I am currently working on the wiring for the Holley Terminator PCM that controls the GT40 302 and the 4r70w, I wonder if they could build one that would do the pushrod with 6 speed....not likely a big market for those. I am really looking forward to using this PCM, wideband 02, self learning, easy to squeeze power from!!! We do have a dyno shop in town up here in North Idaho so once the 07 is running we will likely need a tune session