CoryL '91 4 Door Getting some Goodies!!! Complete off-road performance modifications.

[RFR2212]

Cory-- What winch are you running? How long have ya had it? Has it ever let ya down?
Thanks
Pete

 

[CoryL]

It's a Ramsey REP8000. It's never failed me, but I know elderly people in Florida that drive faster than it pulls, even when unloaded.

 

[TarHeel085]

Originally posted by CoryL
It's a Ramsey REP8000. It's never failed me, but I know elderly people in Florida that drive faster than it pulls, even when unloaded.

D**N, it must be SSSLLLOOOOWWWW!

 

[RFR2212]

Originally posted by CoryL
It's a Ramsey REP8000. It's never failed me, but I know elderly people in Florida that drive faster than it pulls, even when unloaded.

LOL... slow is fine with me. I don't use it a ton, but when I do, I want to know it's there...
Thanks
Pete

 

[CoryL]

Quick check on pricing....

www.summitracing.com has a Ramsey REP8000 with Hawse fairlead for $580.

4wheelparts online has a Warn M8000 with Hawse fairlead for $668. Take 10% (for your discount with 4WheelParts Memphis) off that and you have $602.

I would spend the extra $22 and get the Warn. It's just as reliable and A LOT faster.

My next winch (whenever this one dies or I get pissed with it) will probably be a Warn HS9500i.

 

[Rick]

Fast may be good for competition, but I have seen Warn winches get folks in trouble being too fast... In most of the extraction situations I've seen slow and controlled is the way to go.

 

[CoryL]

See, its not the pull speed which I mind. A controlled, slower is better for the average wheeler.

The problem is the unloaded pull speed. The Warn is MUCH faster when respooling or the like. THAT is the key advantage.

 

[RFR2212]

The M8000 w hawse fairlead is 579.95 here http://www.quadratec.com/cgi-bin/sg...2&UREQC=3&UREQD=4&FNM=00&UID=2002032620004501

I already got a roller fairlead so it's no biggie... I will see after this weekend... gonna clean the solinioids... I might get a cheap winch (m8000) and start savin fer full width solid axles or save for a bad ass winch... still not sure
Pete

 

[Marvin-the-Martian]

A long post...sorry =( bear with it

This is a conglomeration of Cory’s posts as well as some from the Ranger boards
There is some conflicting information here but I’m just gathering it. If someone finds something conflicting or untrue PLEASE let me know. I’d hate for me or anyone else to get in the middle of something like this and find out it’s impossible

Yeah, its easy.
It has to be from a 2.8 donor vehicle and it will require the flexplate and torque converter from the same vehicle
Remove current tranny, remove current flexplate, retain flexplate space , bolt on C5 flexplate, bolt on C5 TQ converter, bolt up C-5.
I am going to have to run a longer tranny fluid line to the front as the C5 has the input and outputs spaced further apart than the A4LD did.
You will also need to move your tranny crossmember forward about 3"-4". This means new driveshafts. I need new ones anyhow, so its not an issue.
Also you will need to use a B&M shifter or the like. I am going to use a B&M Quicksilver shifter. The stock linkage is way too long and it looks like a custom bracket would need to be made.
The C5 from BII's and Rangers in 84-85 had a 1350 t-case behind it. So any Ford t-case with a 5-bolt pattern and a 25 spline input should work. I know for a fact that the BW1350 and BW 1354 will work. I'm sure some of the newer ones would too. CoryL’s post

Not sure where I found this but it falls in line.

note use the small case C4. (dip-stick goes in the case)
for the tranny use a tranny from a V8 small block engine, get a bell housing from a 2.8 75 to 78 mustang II or the bell housing from the 83/84 bronco /ranger. Now it gets difficult. Someone
correct me if I am wrong! The flywheel has to be from the 2.8 ranger/BII, the torque converter, starter also from same year of ranger/BII. This way all match up.

This is some torque converter specs I found

BW1350 & BW1354
The 1350 and 1354 are both 3-piece aluminum part time transfer cases. They both transfer power from the transmission to the rear axle and when actuated, also the front drive axle. The unit is lubricated by a positive displacement oil pump that channels oil flow through drilled holes in the rear output shaft. The
pump turns with the rear output shaft and allows towing of the vehicle at maximum legal road speeds for extended distances without disconnecting the front and or rear drive shaft. The 1350 has a splined front receiver where the front drive shaft slides in. The 1354 has a yoke on the front that accepts a u-joint and holds it in place with straps. The 1350 and 1354 are produced as a mechanical shift and electronic shift.

The 1350 and the 1354 are mechanically identical, with the 2.48:1 ratio. The 1350 has a splined output shaft for the front drive shaft, the 1354 has a u-joint yoke. 1354 is newer so some revisions were probably made. I'm not sure if you can swap the output shafts on them, but I wouldn't see why not.

This is an Email I got from a guy who has done this very mod.

I would think the transfer case wouldn't be too much of a problem assuming the explorers have electronic controlled t-case (no linkage to mess with). I believe all the t-cases in that category have the same bolt patterns. I know when I bought my C-5 I got the t-case with it and it bolted right up to the A4LD. What can I say? It was laying there and as curious as any gear head is, I tried it and it worked. The only deal is the older bronco2/ranger t-cases have a yoke for the “rear drive shaft?” where the newer versions have a flat flange. They will still interchange from what I could see. Both the yoke and flat flange versions are fastened on a splined tail shaft with a locking type nut that can only be removed/attached with and impact.
I’m told the 3.8 v6 that were in 80's and up RWD T-bird/cougars auto tranny models, came with C-5’s and were also supposed to be the same block/bell housing bolt pattern as the 4.0. So if that's the case considering the bell housings are removable and are both C-5’s I believe it's possible.


1350/1354 Flange & Yoke Conversions
My 1983 Ranger used the small 2.5-inch wide u-joint and 2-inch drive shaft. The Rangers flange had a 2-1/2 inch spacing between bolt holes and the flange on the Explorer 8.8 rear axle I installed had a 3-inch spacing between bolt holes.
My drive shaft wouldn't bolt to the new 8.8's flange, so I decided to have a new one built. I could have found a flange for the 8.8 that would accept the 2.5-inch u-joint in order to retain my original shaft, but I wanted to beef things up a bit. I got rid of the yoke on the transfer case and replaced it with a flat flange from a 1986 BroncoII BW1350 transfer case. I now have a flat flange on the axle and on transfer case, with a 1310 u-joint at each end secured in flat flanges. The drive shaft then bolts in flange to flange. These flat flanges allow the bigger u-joints and eliminate the weak u-joint straps at the transfer case.



Ford Explorer/Ranger/Bronco II configurations
'83-85 4x4 Rangers/Bronco2(2wd also) with NON-OVERDRIVE Automatic transmission
will be a C-5
'83-85 Ranger 2wd automatic will be a C3.
'85-94 Rangers/Bronco2/Explorer 2wd & 4x4 with OVERDRIVE will be an A4LD
'85-88 Rangers with NON-overdrive automatic trans
(essentially 2.0 carb engine ONLY) will be a C-3
'85-94 Aerostars (all engines) will be equipped with the A4LD trans
'89-94 2wd & 4x4 Rangers/Bronco2/Explorer will be equipped with the A4LD Overdrive
automatic trans with the exception of SOME '88-90 special-ordered fleet vehicles with
2.0 engines that will have C3 automatics.

'95-01 Rangers (2.3/2.5) will have the 4R44E trans.
'95-01 Rangers and Explorers with the 4.0OHV or SOHC will have the
4R55E trans standard Some trucks were also equipped with the 5R55E
(5speed automatic)

Lastly, Transfer cases.
'83-89 The Borg Warner 13-50 part time 4wd T-case
For '89-'92 some models were equipped with the 13-50 T-case
and others were equipped with the Newer & Stronger B-W 13-54.

the 13-50 was made in several variations, but these were limited to
Electronic or manual shifted versions, and several output flange connection
variations.
The rear output flange was either a "half moon" yoke ('83-85) or
a "flat" flange ('86-91).
The front output flange is either a slip yoke (almost all) or a bolted-on
"halfmoon" yoke (Ranger STX models with the "Highrider" factory 2" lift kit)

ALL 1990 4.0 equipped Rangers used ONLY the 13-54 T-case
All 1993 and later Rangers (all engines)
Explorers ('91-94) used the B-W 13-54.

Sorry about the long post but I thought everyone would be able to use the information if they are willing to give up the overdrive. I know I am. Thanks for putting up with the long post.

 

[CoryL]

I’m told the 3.8 v6 that were in 80's and up RWD T-bird/cougars auto tranny models, came with C-5’s and were also supposed to be the same block/bell housing bolt pattern as the 4.0.

The 3.8L shares the same bolt pattern as the 302/5.0L, so whatever tranny is attached to that motor will NOT bolt to the 4.0L.

...equipped with the Newer & Stronger B-W 13-54.

The 1350 and 1354 to my knowledge are identical in terms of strength internally.

1354 utilizes a yoke for the front output whereas the 1350 uses a splined input which makes the 1354 stronger at the driveshaft.

 

[Crwln94]

Wow! A lot has changed since I have last been here. Looks great! Any new news with it?

 

[CoryL]

Still waiting on the coilovers from Sway-a-Way that I ordered January 16th. If anyone is ever thinking of going with them, I would suggest trying another company. They have been complete ASSHOLES to me on the phone and have basically insinuated that since I am not a race team, I'm not a priority and when they get done, they'll honor me by sendign them to me.

The front suspension parts are just about done, but I cannot do anything without the coilovers.

I did get the B&M Quicksilver shifter installed. Pics will soon come.

The frontend is nearing completion. Just waiting for the grille. Then I can finish the coilover mounts when the coilovers show up, get the wiring tied down, paint it, and wire the lights and winch up.

Tranny lines are on their way as is the dipstick tube and dipstick. Once all that is in I need to buy a starter. Then I can reroute the battery to behind the seats.

Next Sunday my buddy is driving down to Frankfort to pick something up andis going to drop the Bronco II gas tank off for me. Then I can get that installed.

That will leave me with driveshafts! So those will be the final purchase and once they come in, the Explorer can roll outside and get the 38s put on.

I am hoping to be done by the end of April!

 

[Perry]

Sure would be fun to see that beast at Moab this year!!!!!

 

[Randall]

Who did you order the sway-aways through? When I ordered mine in late December they were at my door in the irst week of January. I had no problems with them whatsoever. It was my understanding that sway-away did not sell direct, and so I assume that your problem was with a retailer and not sway-away?

 

[CoryL]

They don't sell direct. I bought them though a local 4wd shop where the owner is a friend of mine. He isn't the problem. Sway-a-Way is.

I've heard every line. Middle of race season, not a priority, etc., etc..

Very unhappy with their customer service as well. They treat me like I should be blessed to be able to pay for a pair of their shocks.

Once I get them I will never do business with them again.

 

[Adam Foote]

goood

good i dont blame you. what assholes

 

[racinhound-Dale]

Originally posted by CoryL
Some 1.5" tubing that I have (hell, it's what everything is made of ) would work nicely in there. I was thinking about using the tubing as well.

I should know better once the axle is in and where everything is gonna be.

Thats gives me a good visual of how to go that route too. Thanks Rick.

O your gonna have issuses with the X-member I would think. I do real bad with the HP44 so why not just replace it with tube now?

 

[CoryL]

Wasn't sure where would hit the worst and what would work best as support (plate vs tubing). I'll prolly hack the crap out of it now.

 

[KEbert]

Did you ever compare the SAW to Bilstein coilovers? Just curious about the cost.

 

[CoryL]

I did.

At the time, the SAWs were dirt cheap as my friend was "going" to become a distributor for SAW and was selling dampers at just above cost to fill his minimum buy.

I'd be interested to see what the Bilstein RCS retail for when they hit the market.