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CV Axle Replacement How To (Pictures)

The CV will not fit through there. I sprayed mine (lifetime Michigan truck) with PB about an hour before I removed it, and didn't have much issue. I do use a 1/2" drive ratchet, so I do have a little more leverage. Once it cracks looke, it's not bad at all. Try a cheater bar or something, it will cut loose.
 



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I'll give it another try I guess
 


















Replacing my driver side CV shaft with a Duralast from AZ. It didn't come with the Dust Shield, so I ordered from Ford (P#Yl2Z-3K070-AA). It appears this fits inside the steering knuckle wheel seal, but does this dust shield need to be pressed onto the CV outer shaft ?

It's rubber with a inner metal ring.
 






The large rubber seal is tapped onto the axle outer CV housing, easily with a screwdriver and hammer. The metal ring that Ford sometimes sells to people after the rubber dust seal, that is part of some of the spindles. I had my parts guy bring out a box with that in it. I never bought those, about half of the spindles I've seen have those in it, they aren't needed.
 






"The large rubber seal is tapped onto the axle outer CV housing, easily with a screwdriver and hammer."

Is there a technique for this ? Thanks for your help.

This rubber seal with an integrated inner metal ring, called Front Wheel Excluder Seal, in shop manual, is tapped onto outer CV outer housing, large circumference edge toward housing and small circumference edge toward knuckle/spindle, fitting within the knuckle/spindle pressed-in wheel seal (all metal). The CV housing has two indented rings, which I guess the metal ring of the Wheel Excluder Seal snaps into the outer indented ring.

The CV axle on the passenger side has this Excluder Seal.

Not sure which seal is not needed, (1. the all metal knuckle Wheel Seal) or (2. the rubber with inner metal ring axle Excluder Seal).
 






Skip the all metal part. The dust seal should not touch the spindle, either that metal part or the raw spindle.

It's a dust shield which is spinning all the time, it isn't for sealing out all moisture. It needs a small gap, try to be sure it doesn't touch. If it does touch while it spins, the rubber will be worn away or melt, you don't want that.
 






Thanks again. The metal seal is already pressed into the spindle. For the life of me I can't see how to get the dust seal onto the outer CV hub, do you just start it on the CV hub ring at an angle and use a screw driver and hammer to tap it in along the inside metal ring ?

BTW, the beveled end of the metal wheel seal is a perfect fit for the dust shield small end, so without your warning, one could easily think the dust shield end fits inside the wheel seal resulting in its destruction.
 






Here's the dust seal on my left axle. Note that it's on enough that it doesn't stick out beyond the large part which rides against the hub bearings.
 

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A picture is worth a thousand words, nice picture, thanks.

The dust shield large circumference edge toward knuckle/spindle and small circumference edge toward CV housing. The opposite of what I believed.

"The large rubber seal is tapped onto the axle outer CV housing, easily with a screwdriver and hammer."

Is there a technique for this ? :confused:
 






It's not a really tight fit, you just need a blunt tip/punch, or as I have a broken tip cheap screwdriver. You set it on there and gently tap it on, working your way around. It doesn't take long, maybe a minute taking your time. Be sure to get it on far enough, there's no harm in it being too far on.
 






Used a blunt tip punch. Tapped it in till the rubber was just inside of the outer CV housing, close to what your picture shows. I had thought the dust shield fit into one of the CV housing indented rings, but it doesn't jump into the CV housing ring.

It appears that the hub/bearing assembly doesn't have a water tight seal, so one would expect the bearings would fail at an alarming rate. Any ideas on how to mitigate this assumed problem ?
 






They last for many years like this, I doubt any failures come from any debris getting in the backside.

Off roading and submerging the hubs will create the expected faster wear. Only for that purpose would I try to get the dust seal to fit very close to the spindle. I had a pair of those dust seals melted along the outer edge because I left them out far enough that they rubbed. About 1/8" of those seals was melted away, and the remaining rubber was very hard like plastic. That spindle/bearing area gets very hot.
 






Spindle/Knuckle & CV outer seal Ford P/N

Per my invoice:
The Spindle/Knuckle metal flange that is pressed-in is called:
Seal Asy-Oil, P/N: F57Z-1S190-AA, cost me 15.32+tax.

The CV outer hub seal, rubber w/inside metal ring is call:
Shield - Dust, P/N: YL2Z*3K070*AA, cost me 32.42+tax.

I purchased from local Ford dealer, CDW6212R recommends http://www.tascaparts.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=213668
 






Good numbers and links, the prices are about half of that at Tasca Ford.

I also got mine from Ford the first time, I rejected the metal spindle flange because mine had them already. I was after the rubber seals then.
 






I got chicken, it appears the CV hub dust shield snaps into a ring on the hub. I couldn't figure out how to get it on hub ring, was afraid that it would spin-off and rub.

My reading on this thread by a post, I believe by you, mentioned that new CVJ came with a dust shield.

So I returned reman CVJ to AZ and got a new CVJ from AA, cost $10.00 more than reman. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...0275-P_945_R|GRP60007_524493427___#fragment-1

I'm out the cost of the shield I bought from Ford, live and learn.

There is about a 1/64th inch gap between rubber and CVJ outer hub end.

Edit: found this link to install the CV hub dust shield, http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12208
 






Yes I've bought CV axles from three places. Two had the dust shields and one didn't come with it.
 






CV axle question redux. New CV axle came with 3-pronged indention nut, but no washer. My old one is in good shape, but doesn't have these indentions & has a integrated floating washer. I plan to use old axle nut because it appears sturdier than new nut. Am I OK to do this ?
 



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Check the thread size and pitch. Some axles have different threads than others. Don't use nuts from differing axles unless they do have the same threads.

If the new nut matches its axle, I'd use it, and save the old nut and washer. Yes the Ford nuts and hardware are usually better quality than the parts store stuff. I have reused the old nut before too, use red loctite if you do.
 






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