D44 Center Limit Strap Ideas

[Turdle]

I am going with the very good advice of a center limiting strap for the front axle. I am going to allow about 2-3 inches of slack in the center so the front will not lift as much climbing a steep incline.

The perfect center on a short d44 is right on the passenger side of the cast iron pumpkin. Looking at Ricks truck the lower tab for the limit strap is welded to the cast center housing, and the tube. While this is good, it is beyond what I think I can accomplish for several reasons which I will list

The diff will need a complete dis assembly as welding with the seals in will surely damage them.


Welding to cast is tricky at best

If I was to get a good weld, the center section must be cooled slowly, and correctly

I do not know how to set the dana 44 back up once completed.

I have no issues with the diff to warrant dis assembly and worry I might induce another problem if I do so.





So, I was thinking about diff guards and such, and thought why not use a 1/4" plate for a bottom diff guard and wrap it up the rear of the passenger side of the diff, out of the way leaving a long tab arm for securing a limit strap. A large "hook" so to speak.

Bending may be tricky but I do have a good press. Thoughts--ideas welcomed.

 

[Twiztid]

 

[Rick]

Sounds like a good solution to the problem. Give it a shot

 

[Brian1]

I would make a tab exactly like Ricks. The hook idea sounds over complicated and I personally don't like putting any pressure on the diff cover such as a steering ram or a limit strap.

See my red comments-

While this is good, it is beyond what I think I can accomplish for several reasons which I will list

The diff will need a complete dis assembly as welding with the seals in will surely damage them.

not necessarily, make sure the diff is vented well since the heat will build up pressure. You dont need to apply too much heat into the diff, the small portion needed to be welded should dissipate through the material and not affect the seal on that side.

Welding to cast is tricky at best

If I was to get a good weld, the center section must be cooled slowly, and correctly

Its really not that hard. With a torch and mig gun it is easy to do. Heat up only the area to be welded, it doesn't need to be cherry red. Weld it then put the torch back onto the weld to keep some heat in it. Wrap a few layers of foil around it then some blankets and leave it alone for a few hours.

I do not know how to set the dana 44 back up once completed.

You are not changing anything about the gear setup. It is as simple as taking the carrier out and then putting it back in. Don't mess with the pinion at all. No shimming needed since the shims are on the inside of the carrier. Front D44s rarely need a case spreader to get the carrier in.

I have no issues with the diff to warrant dis assembly and worry I might induce another problem if I do so.

 

[IZwack]

Yeah do as Brian1 said.

And even if the weld breaks, so what? Its not like the limit strap holds the vehicle up or is part of the steering.

 

[Turdle]

OK after a couple days of deliberation I have decided to take the advice to weld a tab on.

Will flux core wire do a better job of penetration?

 

[IZwack]

Usssually FCAW is not used on cast. But penetration isnt the issue when welding to cast - its the stress which causes the cracking. So having said that, there are often two ways to weld to cast - the super hot, and the cold method. The cold method involves doing small runs to prevent the pieces from getting too hot and therefore cooling at different rates. The super hot method involves preheating, welding, continuously putting heat into and around the welds (by means of a torch) after welding, and then gradually easing off on the heat over a period of time.