dana 35 on 38.5x15in boggers

[explorerman3]

Hey guys, thanks for the compliments, I was kinda nervous to what people were going to say. In a lot of forums, there is nothing but bashing, and trash talking going on... but this forum is different, I like it. To answer a few questions, 1.) I have been pulled over quite a few times in my ex, and I think twice was because of me not having any bumpers. 2.) Yes, my brothers ramcharger does have stacked blocks I know thats a big no..no (Ive talked to him about this). 3.) My rims ar 15" in diameter and 10" wide with a -45mm offset. I will post more pics soon of the journey this truck has went through, and some more pics after I put the 3" body lift on!

 

[91exploreron37]

What other forums have you posted on? Yea post some wheelin pics when you get a chance I'd like to see it in action. Hows the 4.88s with those tires? Is there a noticeable difference between those and the 35's?

 

[explorerman3]

What other forums have you posted on? Yea post some wheelin pics when you get a chance I'd like to see it in action. Hows the 4.88s with those tires? Is there a noticeable difference between those and the 35's?

This is the only explorer forum I belong to. The 4:88's really help turn the meats, I mean with the stock 3.73's it probably wouldnt even move. LOL. There is a huge difference Ive noticed in the mud with the 38s over the 35s, Especially with the clutch being stock! Trying to slip the clutch in the mud is proving to be quite difficult, in fact damn near impossible, which is what I would do on the 35's. So what Ive gotta do is bring the rpm's up and dump it to get the tires to spin which really makes me grind my teeth because I am really worried about breaking my front end!! So Im hoping the centerforce dual friction clutch will allow me to slowly bring up the rpm's and let me gently slip the clutch to turn the tires, rather than beating on it. And hopefully this will go easier on all my drivetrain components. I am kind of jealous of your 5:13 gears, I almost wish I would have gone with those instead, but live and learn:roll:
Also, just for some randomness... my 35"s weighed in at 46lbs each (w/o rim and air)... the 38.5"s weighed in at a whopping 96lbs a pop!! (also just the tire, no rim or air).

 

[91exploreron37]

Wow! thats a big difference. Damn near double the weight
Do you use 4-lo? When I had stocks gears and the 35s I had no problem spinning the tires in 4-lo. 4-hi was a different story lol.
Your actually not going to be able to slip the centerforce much since it grips alot better compared to the stocker. I like it better since my old clutch would slip really bad if I gave it alot of gas and tried popping it. The engine will stall before the clutch slips now.

 

[explorerman3]

Wow! thats a big difference. Damn near double the weight
Do you use 4-lo? When I had stocks gears and the 35s I had no problem spinning the tires in 4-lo. 4-hi was a different story lol.
Your actually not going to be able to slip the centerforce much since it grips alot better compared to the stocker. I like it better since my old clutch would slip really bad if I gave it alot of gas and tried popping it. The engine will stall before the clutch slips now.

OK, that makes sense, I did kill it a lot in the mud. I havent tried 4-lo yet with the tires, suprizingly enough. I guess I should. Still I hope the centerforce helps me out. Ive still got the electric shift 4x4 transfercase, and when I select 4-lo the 4x4 light blinks on the dashboard, I dont know if that means my 4-lo isnt working, or if the light is suppost to flash.

 

[HahnsB2]

OK, that makes sense, I did kill it a lot in the mud. I havent tried 4-lo yet with the tires, suprizingly enough. I guess I should. Still I hope the centerforce helps me out. Ive still got the electric shift 4x4 transfercase, and when I select 4-lo the 4x4 light blinks on the dashboard, I dont know if that means my 4-lo isnt working, or if the light is suppost to flash.

No it will be steady if it works. Are you stopped, while holding in the clutch? If not it wont engage.

 

[91exploreron37]

Im sure theres someone on here that knows what the means. When you did the tranny swap did you wire up the neutral switch correctly? But I got tired of all the electrical problems(mainly the motor) with the push button t-case so I swapped to a manual. I'm currently using a manual 1350 since the 1354 cost so much and is really hard to find around here. But the 1354 is more of a bolt on swap.

 

[91exploreron37]

No it will be steady if it works. Are you stopped, while holding in the clutch? If not it wont engage.

X2 And you will definately be able to tell when your in 4-lo

 

[explorerman3]

No it will be steady if it works. Are you stopped, while holding in the clutch? If not it wont engage.

O crap I really NEED my low range!!! That means that ever since Ive had it even on 32"s Ive never had low range, because that light has blinked for as long as I can remember. Yea I didnt think it made sense to be able to drive at normal street speeds without feeling any difference in how it drives. What can I do, Its not the shifter motor because Ive got a new one and it flashed with the old one, even before the trans swap. WTF did I break??? Please help!

 

[Tbars4]

...It's probably a cheap quick fix...
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=123542

 

[HahnsB2]

I would do like 91exploreron37 did and do a manual 1350 swap (or a 1354 is you can find one). How have you wheeled so long without low range? The only time I've ever used 4hi is in the snow on the road.

 

[explorerman3]

I would do like 91exploreron37 did and do a manual 1350 swap (or a 1354 is you can find one). How have you wheeled so long without low range? The only time I've ever used 4hi is in the snow on the road.

OMG, I dont know! I guess I dont really know how to wheel then:roll:! LOL. If I use low range (which I have never experienced) it will probably be easier on my truck and wheel a hell of a lot better!!

 

[91exploreron37]

It will definately be alot easier on your clutch. If you cant figure out how to fix the auto or just want to go ahead and swap to a manual the I'd get the 1354 with the 1350 being the last resort, not that its a bad t-case it just isnt a direct swap like the 1354(the front driveshafts are completley different etc... etc..).

 

[explorerman3]

It will definately be alot easier on your clutch. If you cant figure out how to fix the auto or just want to go ahead and swap to a manual the I'd get the 1354 with the 1350 being the last resort, not that its a bad t-case it just isnt a direct swap like the 1354(the front driveshafts are completley different etc... etc..).

How hard is it to find a manual 1354 t-case?? I know they are rare. Also, is the 1354 any stronger than the 1350? What about the f150/bronco 1356? Does anyone run the 1356, and is it any stronger than the 1354? Sorry about all the ?'s, these are things Ive wanted to know for a long time.... Im learning a lot tonight! LOL!

 

[HahnsB2]

How hard is it to find a manual 1354 t-case?? I know they are rare. Also, is the 1354 any stronger than the 1350? What about the f150/bronco 1356? Does anyone run the 1356, and is it any stronger than the 1354? Sorry about all the ?'s, these are things Ive wanted to know for a long time.... Im learning a lot tonight! LOL!

The 1354 is stronger but not much. The 1350 bolts in. You just need the correct front driveshaft from an FM145 tranny ranger or B2, or an A4LD/FM146 tranny ranger or B2 but will need to be shortened 1" (costs about $75). The 1356 was used behind V8 trannys I'm pretty sure, and not compatible with RBV trannys.

 

[explorerman3]

The 1354 is stronger but not much. The 1350 bolts in. You just need the correct front driveshaft from an FM145 tranny ranger or B2, or an A4LD/FM146 tranny ranger or B2 but will need to be shortened 1" (costs about $75). The 1356 was used behind V8 trannys I'm pretty sure, and not compatible with RBV trannys.[/QUOTE\

Just found a manual 1354 and a centerforce dual friction clutch for sale from a guy named Josh S. The thread should still be in where the new posts are. Does it look any good, and should I go for it? A manual t-case would be awesome in my xploder, Ive had no issues with the electric, but the manual is just more truck like.

 

[HahnsB2]

Looks good to me. Should be bolt in.

 

[91exploreron37]

Yea looks like a good deal Also these T-cases are pretty stout chain-driven units so theres rarely anything wrong with them as long as it was kept properly lubricated. I'd snatch that one up as they usually go fast!
Also ask if he has the floor plate, if not then you can just cut yours if you cant find one.

 

[410Fortune]

definatley use your low range LOL

 

[explorerman3]

Has anyone ever had trouble finding a shop to but a body lift on? I have tried 3 or 4 different shops and they all tell me the same thing..... "thats not something I want to get into." I would just do it myself, but I cant keep my truck down for too long because I need it to deliver pizzas in. LOL. Also, how involed is it to install a 3in body lift on a first gen explorer? Because I just viewed a thread of 1st gens flexing, and I got quite a bit jealous. I cant flex very well with my 38's w/o more clearence. Another question I had was where are all these people finding fender flares for their first gens? Are they universal flares? If so, who makes them, and will they help out with creating more tire clearence? Any advice would be helpful, THANKS!