Driving with a coolant leak from the timing cover | Page 13 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Driving with a coolant leak from the timing cover

Option 1: you replace the cheap sensor(s) and the light most likely goes out, or it doesn’t. If it doesn’t, oh well.

Option 2: you spend more money having someone cut out the cats, and there is a 100% chance your CEL stays on forever. You’re also introducing **** quality tubing that will likely rot out in a couple of years.
 



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Since you've already dumped a bunch of money into this and are reluctant to spend more these ones will work on your 96 (I just ordered pair ...ended up scoring on some quality Bosch dirt cheap and got last two ofF Ebay ....but was inquiring about compatibilty of these during "shopping")
ONLY $23.00 for the PAIR:
2 Pcs Set O2 Oxygen Sensor for ford Left or Right Side Downstream or Upstream | eBay
Both sensors are the same ones/ part numbers, on our 95, 96's (somebody correct me if I'm wrong) ....both are before the Cats (upstream) our OEM's are 13133 (also 15777) which is now replaced/ superseded by part number 15717
Not sure what additional shipping they'll charge to ship to Canada....free ship in all of U.S.

Connections to harnesses/plugs: One is accessed from passenger side in engine bay near firewall / back of valve cover area. The other one is accessed underneath on drivers side next to trans linkage (below drivers seat) -- the vehicle needs to be on a lift to get both hands in there to disconnect plug - due to shift linkage being totally in the way....one hand to push down on small release lever -- the other hand to hold / resist play of other side of connection.
 






Replace the O2 sensors, and shop around for them. Bosch sensors are good, and often Rock Auto or Amazon are great for them. They don't need to be tested unless they were brand new, they should all be replaced at this age. Don't cut the cats out, that's a bad path to go down, with multiple new issues. Fix the emissions system.

The balancer $75 sleeve products, that is only for a worn crank seal groove. Those are rarely ever needed, only when idiots don't keep good oil in the engine, and the filth wears a groove in the crank at the front seal surface. Usually any front or rear seal leak, is from the seal becoming old and brittle.

The balancers also hardly need replacing, typically when very old, but it's good insurance to replace them. It's bad when they come apart.

Oil stop leak products rarely work at all. Some may reduce leaking a little, but don't expect much.

Don't use silicone for anything, use only RTV. Silicone is for aquariums and home exterior caulking. Buy only automotive top brand RTV, such as Ultra Black, or grey, copper, red, blue. Those RTV products are very durable, silicone gets hard and brittle with heat or sunlight. I have Ultra Copper and black on my chimney right now, from 150+ years ago. It's tough and barely flexible, but not letting go until you make it let go.

You can add RTV on top of anything which is clean, you can spread more onto other RTV(or silicone, but I'd get any of that tossed in the trash).

Thanks. I will replace the o2 sensors if I know for sure they are faulty. Does brand really matter for them?

I couldn't find a place that stocks the speedy sleeves anyways. Will only replace the balancer if the one on it now is bad. If not, then I ship the new one from Rock Auto back to them to get store credit back. The mechanic from this week did say mine now is likely needing to be replaced.

I have RTX red high heat silicone on the oil pan right now. Seems to be holding up well.
 






Option 1: you replace the cheap sensor(s) and the light most likely goes out, or it doesn’t. If it doesn’t, oh well.

Option 2: you spend more money having someone cut out the cats, and there is a 100% chance your CEL stays on forever. You’re also introducing **** quality tubing that will likely rot out in a couple of years.
Trying option 1 first but hate replacing parts that don't need to be replaced.
Really hope my cat is not faulty. If it is, no way am I buying another one.
 






Since you've already dumped a bunch of money into this and are reluctant to spend more these ones will work on your 96 (I just ordered pair ...ended up scoring on some quality Bosch dirt cheap and got last two ofF Ebay ....but was inquiring about compatibilty of these during "shopping")
ONLY $23.00 for the PAIR:
2 Pcs Set O2 Oxygen Sensor for ford Left or Right Side Downstream or Upstream | eBay
Both sensors are the same ones/ part numbers, on our 95, 96's (somebody correct me if I'm wrong) ....both are before the Cats (upstream) our OEM's are 13133 (also 15777) which is now replaced/ superseded by part number 15717
Not sure what additional shipping they'll charge to ship to Canada....free ship in all of U.S.

Connections to harnesses/plugs: One is accessed from passenger side in engine bay near firewall / back of valve cover area. The other one is accessed underneath on drivers side next to trans linkage (below drivers seat) -- the vehicle needs to be on a lift to get both hands in there to disconnect plug - due to shift linkage being totally in the way....one hand to push down on small release lever -- the other hand to hold / resist play of other side of connection.

Thanks. Do brands really matter for o2 sensors on this truck? I picked up a pair from my local store and the best price was $133cdn for the pair. That much for o2 sensors? Ridiculous. They are NTK brand. The guy said they are very good and is Ford's OEM supplier.

I checked yours out and the vendor doesn't ship to Canada, darn.
 






Don't think flashing the computer for the cat at this point on a 25 year old truck will do anything.

Too bad there's no way to tell if the O2 sensors are bad without replacing them. Looks like we have two and they aren't cheap. Just don't want to replace it only to find out, nothing was wrong with the sensors.

My first route is likely to just get my mech to remove the cat and straight pipe it. Looks like 2 cats on this truck. What did the welder do to fix yours?
The flash was because the software was too sensitive, I don't know how far gone the cats are , or what the issue is. There are actually 3 sensors, 2 pre, one post, they are diagnosable with skill. Legally you are not supposed to replace a CAT unless you know why it failed. Yes they do wear out but most of the time something is contributing. (like a neglected misfire). You have to watch the sensor waveforms, do some tests.

If you have no emissions BS, probably a good idea to get rid of them. They do provide some backpressure to the engine, but this engine needs all the free breathing it could get.

I had a hole in the crossover pipe, and welded it up. I didn't have any cat codes though, but I had to replace the cat because it had a hole. NY requires a very expensive CAT too. They use the same ones as CA (only two states, there is a special part). It is absurd. I probably could have welded it too.
 






Thanks. I will replace the o2 sensors if I know for sure they are faulty. Does brand really matter for them?

I couldn't find a place that stocks the speedy sleeves anyways. Will only replace the balancer if the one on it now is bad. If not, then I ship the new one from Rock Auto back to them to get store credit back. The mechanic from this week did say mine now is likely needing to be replaced.

I have RTX red high heat silicone on the oil pan right now. Seems to be holding up well.

O2 sensors which are possibly 25 years old should be replaced. Some parts are critical, and age alone is enough to replace them, no testing needed. O2 sensors are very critical, replace them on any car you think they may be old. The rear O2 sensors don't need to be replaced, unless in latest models they force you to for emissions. They have nothing to do with engine efficiency in any older models.

If what you have is labeled "RTX red high heat silicone", find a use for it besides automotive needs. All Permatex Ultra RTV of any color is high heat material. Any of those is adequate to seal any oil pan hole, or any gaskets in general. Ultra Copper is so good, it's been used for head gaskets(I wouldn't), and exhaust manifold gaskets, including in place of manifold gaskets.

RTV is great stuff, silicone is crap, and bad for surfaces you might need painted later. I know that they have similarities, car people know to avoid silicone, and only use what is called solely RTV, of some kind. Silicone comes in many low quality versions, any hardware store will have shelves of it, in the home caulking sections. Low end brands may sell some kind of RTV and call it a silicone in the description, skip those, and stick with top name brands of RTV.
 






Thanks. Do brands really matter for o2 sensors on this truck? I picked up a pair from my local store and the best price was $133cdn for the pair. That much for o2 sensors? Ridiculous. They are NTK brand. The guy said they are very good and is Ford's OEM supplier.

I checked yours out and the vendor doesn't ship to Canada, darn.
I didn't have luck with Bosch on this truck. They are not the OEM for this application, even though it is a German engine. NTK/Denso/Motorcraft are probably all good. But like other said if this isn't diagnosed, you are playing parts roulette.
 






The flash was because the software was too sensitive, I don't know how far gone the cats are , or what the issue is. There are actually 3 sensors, 2 pre, one post, they are diagnosable with skill. Legally you are not supposed to replace a CAT unless you know why it failed. Yes they do wear out but most of the time something is contributing. (like a neglected misfire). You have to watch the sensor waveforms, do some tests.

If you have no emissions BS, probably a good idea to get rid of them. They do provide some backpressure to the engine, but this engine needs all the free breathing it could get.

I had a hole in the crossover pipe, and welded it up. I didn't have any cat codes though, but I had to replace the cat because it had a hole. NY requires a very expensive CAT too. They use the same ones as CA (only two states, there is a special part). It is absurd. I probably could have welded it too.

Just looking online, it looks like the sensors I picked up today are one for the front and one for the back. So I guess the back one, the one that goes behind the cat is not needed them?

We have emissions here in Canada unfortunately. If it's my cat that is faulty, I will just cut the cat out and put a quality straight pipe on it. I knoew someone who welds really good work and will do it.
 






Ships to Canada free: -- C $33.89 -- return the ones you bought and save $100
Upstream O2 Oxygen Sensor Set of 2 Pair for Ford E-350 Lincoln Mercury Mazda New | eBay

Interchangeable part number >> 15717

**In case you came across this --- The part number 15718 has a slightly longer cable length....(hence having 8 instead of 7 at end of part number to designate difference)...but the length on the 15717's will reach both harnesses....and both are intended to work on our designated Explorers / setup and are interchangeable.... this is what two O'reilly employee's promised up and down.
 






Just looking online, it looks like the sensors I picked up today are one for the front and one for the back. So I guess the back one, the one that goes behind the cat is not needed them?

We have emissions here in Canada unfortunately. If it's my cat that is faulty, I will just cut the cat out and put a quality straight pipe on it. I knoew someone who welds really good work and will do it.
Rear one is only to check the cat. Some say it has a small role in engine management, I don't know.
The way they are diagnosed is the front ones should show waves, but the back should be flat. That means the the cats burnt off all the pollutants, now there is no more oxygen. The computer looks at that, if front and back look the same, you get a light.
 






The flash was because the software was too sensitive, I don't know how far gone the cats are , or what the issue is. There are actually 3 sensors, 2 pre, one post, they are diagnosable with skill. Legally you are not supposed to replace a CAT unless you know why it failed. Yes they do wear out but most of the time something is contributing. (like a neglected misfire). You have to watch the sensor waveforms, do some tests.

If you have no emissions BS, probably a good idea to get rid of them. They do provide some backpressure to the engine, but this engine needs all the free breathing it could get.

I had a hole in the crossover pipe, and welded it up. I didn't have any cat codes though, but I had to replace the cat because it had a hole. NY requires a very expensive CAT too. They use the same ones as CA (only two states, there is a special part). It is absurd. I probably could have welded it too.

Just got back from my mechanic (went to a backyard mechanic for this job) since I figured for a job like this, I likely don't need to be paying my shop mechanics to do it. The mechanic did another scan code and said bank 1 cat convertor so he said the passenger side o2 sensor is bad.

We tested the one on the driver side and removed it. The tips completely fried so we put the new one in. He then started to work on the passenger side sensor but it's in such a bad spot that he couldn't get his tool up there. He tried to cut it out but a power saw blade and it wouldn't cut. So going back tomorrow because he's going to come up with a tool to get it out.

He cleared the code and though the CEL will likely come back since it looks to be the bank 1 passenger side o2 sensor that is bad.
 






O2 sensors which are possibly 25 years old should be replaced. Some parts are critical, and age alone is enough to replace them, no testing needed. O2 sensors are very critical, replace them on any car you think they may be old. The rear O2 sensors don't need to be replaced, unless in latest models they force you to for emissions. They have nothing to do with engine efficiency in any older models.

If what you have is labeled "RTX red high heat silicone", find a use for it besides automotive needs. All Permatex Ultra RTV of any color is high heat material. Any of those is adequate to seal any oil pan hole, or any gaskets in general. Ultra Copper is so good, it's been used for head gaskets(I wouldn't), and exhaust manifold gaskets, including in place of manifold gaskets.

RTV is great stuff, silicone is crap, and bad for surfaces you might need painted later. I know that they have similarities, car people know to avoid silicone, and only use what is called solely RTV, of some kind. Silicone comes in many low quality versions, any hardware store will have shelves of it, in the home caulking sections. Low end brands may sell some kind of RTV and call it a silicone in the description, skip those, and stick with top name brands of RTV.

These sensors are definitely still stock. Talk about getting your money's worth. We won't be changing out the rear sensor. Weird, my local store doesn't even sell the rear sensor but sounds like I don't need it anyways.

Yes the silicone on the oil pan right now is RTX red high heat. I always thought RTV was the best for silicones.
 






I didn't have luck with Bosch on this truck. They are not the OEM for this application, even though it is a German engine. NTK/Denso/Motorcraft are probably all good. But like other said if this isn't diagnosed, you are playing parts roulette.

It looks like my both my o2 sensors at the front are bad (driver and passenger). The driver side one was completely fried and going back tomorrow to get the passenger side one put in. Not surprised since they are still stock from 1996.
 






Ships to Canada free: -- C $33.89 -- return the ones you bought and save $100
Upstream O2 Oxygen Sensor Set of 2 Pair for Ford E-350 Lincoln Mercury Mazda New | eBay

Interchangeable part number >> 15717

**In case you came across this --- The part number 15718 has a slightly longer cable length....(hence having 8 instead of 7 at end of part number to designate difference)...but the length on the 15717's will reach both harnesses....and both are intended to work on our designated Explorers / setup and are interchangeable.... this is what two O'reilly employee's promised up and down.

Darn, wish I saw this earlier. Already put the driver side sensor in tonight and the other one is opened and going in tomorrow.

After some more thinking, I may not bother with the crankshaft seal and just leave it as is. I notice that the rear main seal is leaking too (just seeping) which is completely normal on a truck this old and no way I'm getting that done. I just don't think it's worth replacing the crankshaft seal, will give it a couple days to think it over and decide. I can still return the part and I can still return the harmonic balancer to Rock Auto.

But the idler pulley I probably should replace for sure, it's still stock. Should I go ahead and replace the idler pulley? Would hate to see it break all of a sudden.
 






Replace all belt idler pulleys which are old and can be replaced. The tensioner is a pass/fail item, the spring in it will generally work great, until at some poin it weakens and the tension becomes weak or varies a lot.
 






Replace all belt idler pulleys which are old and can be replaced. The tensioner is a pass/fail item, the spring in it will generally work great, until at some poin it weakens and the tension becomes weak or varies a lot.

Thanks. I put a belt auto tensioner on it 2 weeks ago. How many idler pulleys does this truck have? I thought it was only one?
 






Some have three(302), plus the tensioner pulley. All but the accessory pulleys can be replaced. The AC clutch pulley is the one that wears over time, it's replaceable but you usually will hear the extra noise when it is close to worn out. For budget needs, a used AC clutch is a decent choice if money is tight.
 






Some have three(302), plus the tensioner pulley. All but the accessory pulleys can be replaced. The AC clutch pulley is the one that wears over time, it's replaceable but you usually will hear the extra noise when it is close to worn out. For budget needs, a used AC clutch is a decent choice if money is tight.

Thanks. My belt tensioner was definitely bad, surprised I drove on it like that for so long. Could basically get the belt undone by just turning the tensioner.

When I called around the stores here, they came up with idler pulley, auto tensioner and ac bypass pulley (which I am guessing is the clutch).

The AC one is $105cdn! How can I get a used one?
 



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You don't need the AC clutch until you notice it rattling or not spinning smoothly. All of the pulleys have bearings, the ones you should worry about are the simple pulleys, which are cheap and easy to replace.

Almost everything is on eBay used, the AC clutch is something that should be easy to buy used. At a JY, it might take 10 minutes to remove one, they have basically just one small bolt in the center holding it on. New ones can be as little as $75 online sometimes.
 






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