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Driving with a coolant leak from the timing cover

98FordLove

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what a dumb mechanic, guess he doesn't want to finish the job done or get paid for his labour last night. He never got back so I will need to find someone else to replace the passenger side sensor. CEL just came back on.truck seems to run better now with the new driver side sensor. Seems like this job was too tough for him.
 


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98FordLove

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You don't need the AC clutch until you notice it rattling or not spinning smoothly. All of the pulleys have bearings, the ones you should worry about are the simple pulleys, which are cheap and easy to replace.

Almost everything is on eBay used, the AC clutch is something that should be easy to buy used. At a JY, it might take 10 minutes to remove one, they have basically just one small bolt in the center holding it on. New ones can be as little as $75 online sometimes.

Good to hear thanks. I really don't want to pay $100 for another part right now. I will replace the idler pulley in a few days.
 




98FordLove

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Replaced the 2 front sensors. CEl came back on when I got back home. Figures.

Can I just drive it like this with the cats still on?

I've already decided that I won't be replacing the crankshaft seal, just not worth it. I'll live with the leak and top up oil every week or so.
 




98FordLove

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Found this. The OP says that replacing the rear o2 sensor fixed his CEL for good.

 




Mr. Alligator

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Your engine does not mind if it is leaking motor oil ... it minds when it runs out of motor oil.
 




98FordLove

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Your engine does not mind if it is leaking motor oil ... it minds when it runs out of motor oil.

Yes true but I won't be running out of oil. The truck seems to be leaking considerably less right now than it did before with both valve cover gaskets leaking plus likely the crankseal. I still may get the crankseal done but it's the matter of when and whether I can resolve this stupid cat bank 1 issue causing the CEL.

After seeing that link I just posted, I'm going to locate and try replacing the rear o2 sensor next.
 




98FordLove

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Rear one is only to check the cat. Some say it has a small role in engine management, I don't know.
The way they are diagnosed is the front ones should show waves, but the back should be flat. That means the the cats burnt off all the pollutants, now there is no more oxygen. The computer looks at that, if front and back look the same, you get a light.

From the sounds of it though, the rear o2 sensor would likely determine if the cat is working properly or not.
 




98FordLove

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Just talked with my other mechanic (who fixed all the issues from the first idiot last week) and he said that with this code it's the cat going bad as he's seen it thousands of times and it's almost always the cat. He said replacing the rear sensor on this truck won't do anything. He also said that I have some time before it goes bad since I don't have any symptoms right now so driving it like this is not at all an issue. He said lots of people out there drive with bad cats, they just throw cat cleaner in and clear the codes until it comes back on and then rinse and repeat. He said I could try putting more cat cleaner in the tank but it's only a 50/50 chance it works.
 




98FordLove

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20210223_131853.jpg





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96eb96

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98FordLove

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Two heater codes? That is likely a wiring issue or a fuse. Chances are if you replace the sensors, the code will come right back.
3 heater codes.

I feel it could be wiring or fuses but the mech who put the new sensors in said the wiring was still good. He said that the battery on this truck has to be unplugged for 10mins and idling for another 10mins when replacing the sensors and clearing the CEL. Is that true?
 




C420sailor

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Didn’t you previously say the first mechanic hacked up the wiring and fixed it with shitty crimps?

That’s where I would be looking with all those sensor heater codes.

$20 your cat is fine.
 




98FordLove

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Didn’t you previously say the first mechanic hacked up the wiring and fixed it with shitty crimps?

That’s where I would be looking with all those sensor heater codes.

$20 your cat is fine.

Yes the first mechanic hacked up the wiring harness in the engine bay and tried to crimp it. But I had that all replaced and fixed last week at my main mechanic. That wiring harness right on the engine would affect o2 sensors? I thought the o2 sensors are under the truck right by the sensors?

From the looks of it, since I got 3 codes and it is from each of the 3 sensors, it has to be wiring.

Sure hope the cat is fine, from the looks of it right now, it looks to be the case (which is very good news for me).
 




98FordLove

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See this is why I don't like backyard mechanics. Just too many BS and bad experiences with them over the years with previous cars. Most of them don't even know how to return calls or get back to you or they keep you waiting or just don't have any organization or communication or manners.

I will likely take it into my mechanics shop tomorrow (the one who fixed the mistakes last week from the first mech) as I just don't have time for the BS from backyard hacks. Plus he's the one who knows about what happened to the wiring harness and fix it, so he will be right up to date on what's been going on.

Like this other backyard mechanic saying how you need to unplug the battery for 10mins after replacing any sensor and idle it for 10mins. What an idiot. He wasn't even willing to listen to the codes I got and I told him, it's a wiring or fuse issue.
 




96eb96

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See this is why I don't like backyard mechanics. Just too many BS and bad experiences with them over the years with previous cars. Most of them don't even know how to return calls or get back to you or they keep you waiting or just don't have any organization or communication or manners.

I will likely take it into my mechanics shop tomorrow (the one who fixed the mistakes last week from the first mech) as I just don't have time for the BS from backyard hacks. Plus he's the one who knows about what happened to the wiring harness and fix it, so he will be right up to date on what's been going on.

Like this other backyard mechanic saying how you need to unplug the battery for 10mins after replacing any sensor and idle it for 10mins. What an idiot. He wasn't even willing to listen to the codes I got and I told him, it's a wiring or fuse issue.
Cat failures are very rare on these trucks, unless they rot away. That is why I said diagnosis is important. So you see where this is going and what bills you can have?

The engine harness could have wires going to the computer and the 02 sensors. Could be a damaged ground wire. Who knows. This is why I hate strange mechanics touching my car.

After this thread you are probably more qualified than many "mechanics." I know cases were new cars under warranty were F*#$d beyond repair. Unplugging the battery is also BS. After a drive everything will adjust. When you unplug the battery you just set everything to the baseline and have to drive anyway.
 




CDW6212R

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The O2 wiring runs along the back of the engine/trans, and into the main connector nearby. If any of that wiring was damaged, they could have gotten the wires mixed up when they reconnected them. They all have unique colors, which should make it easy for anyone to trace them or repair them.

You or your mechanic should be able to test the wires from each end, the main engine harness connector, to near the sensor end. Those should all have proper resistance and continuity.
 




98FordLove

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Cat failures are very rare on these trucks, unless they rot away. That is why I said diagnosis is important. So you see where this is going and what bills you can have?

The engine harness could have wires going to the computer and the 02 sensors. Could be a damaged ground wire. Who knows. This is why I hate strange mechanics touching my car.

After this thread you are probably more qualified than many "mechanics." I know cases were new cars under warranty were F*#$d beyond repair. Unplugging the battery is also BS. After a drive everything will adjust. When you unplug the battery you just set everything to the baseline and have to drive anyway.

Dropped the truck off at the mechanic just now, he will assess. He flashed the PCM, didn't fix it.
He also noticed and mentioned that my master cylinder is leaking but said it won't bring air into the system for awhile.

Hopefully can get this addressed quickly.

Now you know why I'm not bothering with getting the crankseal replaced anymore. Getting this CEL issue fixed and that's it.
 




96eb96

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Dropped the truck off at the mechanic just now, he will assess. He flashed the PCM, didn't fix it.
He also noticed and mentioned that my master cylinder is leaking but said it won't bring air into the system for awhile.

Hopefully can get this addressed quickly.

Now you know why I'm not bothering with getting the crankseal replaced anymore. Getting this CEL issue fixed and that's it.
Master Cyl lived a respectable long life, just keep an eye on it. Problem if it leaks too much it can spill into the brake booster. I don't think that is a crazy expensive repair. Maybe 1.5 hr labor? 75-100 part?

That PCM issue wont help bad 02 sensors. It just makes it much less sensitive for emissions reasons.. It may help if you keep it long term though. The 02 sensors have to work optimally, for lots of systems on the car. I wouldn't worry about the crankshaft seal unless it is gushing oil. Keep an eye on it. I've noticed mine comes and goes. I also have a tiny front axle pinion leak, maybe add less than 1/8L at each oil change. Not worth to bother. My neighbor bought a new explorer and it has tons of problems. Some he has to just live with. They changed a noisy hub and it looked worse rusty than a 25 yo one.

Very few cars can be driven reliably 25yrs down the line. These repairs(not counting incompetence) are relatively minor.
 




98FordLove

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The O2 wiring runs along the back of the engine/trans, and into the main connector nearby. If any of that wiring was damaged, they could have gotten the wires mixed up when they reconnected them. They all have unique colors, which should make it easy for anyone to trace them or repair them.

You or your mechanic should be able to test the wires from each end, the main engine harness connector, to near the sensor end. Those should all have proper resistance and continuity.

I have a feeling that the dumb backyard mechanic from two nights ago who put the two new 02 sensors in, didn't check the wiring properly and plugged them back in incorrectly.

He's going to check the wiring next and make sure they are giving full continuity and then the fuses. He did a test earlier with his computer and he said the PCM was giving 100% signal though.
 


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98FordLove

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Master Cyl lived a respectable long life, just keep an eye on it. Problem if it leaks too much it can spill into the brake booster. I don't think that is a crazy expensive repair. Maybe 1.5 hr labor? 75-100 part?

That PCM issue wont help bad 02 sensors. It just makes it much less sensitive for emissions reasons.. It may help if you keep it long term though. The 02 sensors have to work optimally, for lots of systems on the car. I wouldn't worry about the crankshaft seal unless it is gushing oil. Keep an eye on it. I've noticed mine comes and goes. I also have a tiny front axle pinion leak, maybe add less than 1/8L at each oil change. Not worth to bother. My neighbor bought a new explorer and it has tons of problems. Some he has to just live with. They changed a noisy hub and it looked worse rusty than a 25 yo one.

Very few cars can be driven reliably 25yrs down the line. These repairs(not counting incompetence) are relatively minor.

I will for sure have to keep an eye on it, that and the crankseal leak and the red silicone on the oil pan. I didn't think it was that expensive either to replace the master cylinder. The quote he gave me was with him bleeding it after and if the combusion valve has to be changed too. It was a rough quote since he doesn't know exactly how much the parts are at the local shop. He quoted me 2 hours labour and up to 4 if he runs into issues. 1.5 hours to replace everything and 0.5 hours to bleed including doing a full brake bleed on the whole system. He has a tank for it so he can rebleed any car in 30mins.

With the truck running, there's no oil that comes down to the ground and if there is, it's one drop in many many minutes. Before I had red silicon applied to the oil pan cracks, there was 2-3 drops every couple of seconds so it was much worse and consistent. But in the morning after the truck sits overnight, I get about 5-7 drops of oil on the ground. The new high mileage oil could be a factor. Will give it a couple of oil change intervals to see if it helps slow the leak. If not then I will just go back to conventional oil or the next oil change I may try to find 5W-40 (tough to find in stores here).

I need to give it more time but so far I'm not losing that much oil compared to before all these repairs. I don't mind topping up a little bit every week if needed.

What year explorer for your neighbour? Brand new?
 




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