Fitting 35's with BL and fiberglass.... | Page 3 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Fitting 35's with BL and fiberglass....

I've been thinking.. Whats the distance from the top of the tire, to the edge of the wheel well front/rear?

Im wondering if you ditched your AAL's and just went SOA if they would match up. Plus you would have a ton more clearance in rear.
 



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will measure mine as soon as i find a tape. Though I will tell you it would look crazy uneaven
 






You think? SOA will give what 5.5"? Add the gap from the fiberglass, and the 2" TT.. and you should be close.
 






Yeah i think it will look uneven. I will try to get a picture of my truck with jacks under the rear frame rails to show you what I mean.

anywho measurements
Please note
These were taken from a first gen 4 door. About 200 pounds of junk in the trunk (tools) and a 80 pound spare on the rear roof. parked aimed slightly downhill. Stock front suspension, warriors on the rear sagged leafs
front
9 3/4 inches
rear
6 1/2 inches

So with that difference you could make the gap the same by either doing an soa and taking out the shackles and adding a little bitty torsion twist. Or leaving them and doing a big TT. IF the second gens measure about the same. Either way the truck it self will still sit well higher in the rear.

edit: I only measured the left side and remember because my fenders fit like crap your results will probably varry a little
 






Thats cool. I was just thinking the bottom of the fenders would line up, and provide better clearance. Now I remember Johnstone did it, but Im still curious for a 2nd gen.


4107ef03170002-med.jpg
 






nissanboy said:
my SOHC and i dont like the 4.88's i spin about 3700rpm at 65mph.
With 36's? :confused: Maybe out of OD?
At 65mph I was at 2500 with the stock trans. With the 700R4, I'm at 70 at 2500 rpm.
 






yeah thats kinda what I expected. Looks slanted as hell
 






Here is a second gen. I think it would look really good with fiberglass fenders.

1808new_tires2.jpg
 






Jefe said:
With 36's? :confused: Maybe out of OD?
At 65mph I was at 2500 with the stock trans. With the 700R4, I'm at 70 at 2500 rpm.

Im not sure what actual speed is that is 65mph on the speedometer in OD.
when i had 3.73's and 35's when my speedo read 70 i was turning 2250ish in OD.

Would altitude have any affect on RPM differences?

Back on topic though.... i switched to 15x8 wheels with 3.75 BS and still no rubbing.
 






TheRookie said:
Yeah i think it will look uneven.
Agreed - massive rake to the car with SOA and flares. Right gap distances, wrong everything else I'd think.

edit: just saw the other picss posted. More rake than I want, but they don't look as bad as I thought they would. But isn't that X the one that has an SOA and slanted body lift? Not just TT up front?

TheRookie said:
200 pounds of junk in the trunk
WTF? I don't need to know. :eek:

Visually, it'll start to even out once I get the rear fender flares on. Bought some xenon flares....so when it is done, and the front fenders are painted, they will get a dose of line-x in a strip to match the line-x that will be on the rear flares. I'll pshop a pic and add it in here later....

edit: I SUCK at photo editing. Pic below - don't judge the art - but you should get the concept.
28933linex_flares-med.jpg
 






well there is a nodular ford 9" 3rd member that alone has got to be 70 pounds or more. and atleast 125 pounds of different tools. looks like you plan on doing a LOT of rear trimming. Take pics so everyone else hat needs to trim the rear can see how you did yours.
 






get polyurathane body mounts, thats supposed to an inch extra. I know that would be 4 inches total but might clear it.

Ryan
 






a 4" body lift would not be good.
 






j602 said:
a 4" body lift would not be good.

No it wouldnt. I am not sure who you are suggesting does that though. The person who started this thread doesnt have a body lift. and I am going SOA but already have minor rubbing due to the fenders and quite a bit of time behind the sawzall
 












Buckshot said:
edit: just saw the other picss posted. More rake than I want, but they don't look as bad as I thought they would. But isn't that X the one that has an SOA and slanted body lift? Not just TT up front?

Thats Dasfrem's truck. It just has a 3" BL(all around) and SOA rear.
 






Sorry for the confusion guys -

1. I do have a 3" Body lift, I said I had nothing more than a TT for suspension lift.
2. The black in the edited photo is not more body cutting, it is where the fender flares will be on the rear and the strip on the perrys that will be painted to match the rear fender flares. Thinking about rhino lining/line-x on that. Along with the metal under the molding strip above the step bars after the molding strip is removed.

I'll post more pics when I get more done to help avoid the confusion.

The reason I started the thread is I wanted to know if anyone knew if there was anything in the panels behind the pinch weld so I could cut more into it. And to find out if anyone had already done so. I got a couple of answers along with the everpresent "the sawzall is your friend" comments. :D And also to figure out a better way to work the inner fender lining.

I hear about people running 35's with less cutting and I suspect that my TT adjuster bolt maxed out on the driver's side due to worn out torsion bars or bad specs or something which is why others have gotten more lift than I did out of the TT. My passenger side could have gone up another 1.5 inches. So, rather than fix that and then maybe get into the bigger TT issues like CVs and other things, I would rather cut, hammer, and weld. :hammer:

As far as the inner fenders are concerned, I think I've decided to glass in some tabs so I can just bolt some hard plastic to the existing fender lining and to the lip of the fenders. And I think I'll send that as a suggestion to Perry Jr. - It wouldn't be to difficult to add fiberglass tabs to the inside of the fenders near the lip as part of production runs.

Thanks again for all the suggestions - and keep 'em coming! :chug:
 






I have 4.88 on my dd and I would never get 4.56, the difference is negligible on the street, but big on the trail. I turn 2250 at 65, and 5500 feet.
 






ok - 4.88 it is. Good price from Randy's for Yukons...maybe I should put in a selectable locker while I've got it apart? Do they make an OX for the 8.8 yet?
 



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