Front Passenger Window Smashed Out

[pzy3339]

Hey folks, got my window smashed out so some poor soul could go to Kroger with my girlfriends debit card....


My insurance deductible is $500 so I am looking to do this job myself with a window from a junk yard.

Wondering if anyone has had to do this before and what tips/tricks they might have to contribute to reduce my frustration.

I also have a concern of the window tint. Are they all going to be the same tint? I have a black Limited 2006.

Thanks

 

[briwayjones]

Make sure that it has to be covered under your regular insurance deductible. I know with a lot of if not almost all insurance they will replace the windshield for no charge and no deductible. It doesn't fall under the normal repairs. I don't know if this applies to the other windows also.

 

[pzy3339]

I am going to call my agent about that in the morning. Since their office was closed today I was directed to someone at a call center who said it is not covered in that way. I would have to pay the $500 first.

I did find what supposedly is a matching unit here in town at a junk yard. Its off a 2003 model though. $50.

I think I will call a dealership tomorrow and see if the 2003 and 2006 part numbers match. I just don't want two different color windows. My friend had that issue with his ranger in this same situation. I think he got a '97 window for his 2011 ranger, they haven't changed much I guess.

 

[pzy3339]

According to fordparts.com they are in fact the exact same part. So if I can get the part from this place I will just do it myself. A shop will take forever and I prefer to do my own work anyways. For now I'm driving dads mustang, hopefully it won't blizzard this week.

Maybe I will document the work for others, seeing I couldn't find anything similar on here.

 

[mcobb]

Good luck- it isnt too bad!

 

[Flag Gibby]

I have done a few and the hardest part is getting the door cover off to get access to the window track etc. and to vacuum out the broken glass inside the door. There are a couple of how to instructions around here on how to get the driver door cover off without breaking the clips etc. on it. I have not seen any of the front driver windows tinted very dark from the factory and if the part numbers are exactly the same on fordparts then they are an exact match. Good Luck.

 

[Destyn2001]

You must have some off-off-off-brand insurance company. Every insurance company I have ever had has a $0 deductible for Glass wether I smash a windshield or someone else cracks a side window. I would look over your policy and/or double/triple check with your insurance company to make sure it does infact fall under the normal deductible.

 

[swshawaii]

2006 Window Glass Front Door Removal and Installation

https://www.scribd.com/doc/249534861/Window-Glass-8212-Front-Door-Removal-and-Installation

 

[pzy3339]

Well, I didn't even bother with the insurance company. I got the junk yard window, $55. Took me and my old man about 2 hours to replace it. Pretty easy job actually.

A quick procedure for anyone who finds this in the future.

1) Two bolts at the bottom of door panel, remove.
2) Two bolts hold the door grab handles on, the cover needs to be pulled off.
3) Two bolts hold the door release handle, the cover needs pulled off.
4) The door panel needs to be pulled UP, not away from the door.
5) Two electrical connectors to the door panel
6) The door release cable has an end on it like the brake cable on a bicycle. Remove it from the release handle, then squeeze the tabs on the plastic part with needle nose pliers and it can be removed from the door panel so you can put the door panel somewhere else.
7) The window will only move up and down with the larger of the two electrical connectors for the door panel plugged in, the drivers side window control will not work without this plugged in. You will need to move the window in step 11 and 12, and when you want to put the window into the door you want the window mounts moved all the way to the bottom position.
8) Remove the moisture barrier where the electrical connector to the mirror goes. Unplug the mirror.
9) Remove moisture barrier on the door.
10) Remove foam block
11) Move window rivet to location accessible by a drill. Drill out the rivet.
12) Same as 11, for the second rivet.
13) The window seals all the way around the window frame can be removed, and they need to be to get the window in and out of the door easily.
14) The window rivets for your new glass can be replaced by 1/4" bolts. I put a washer and lock washer on each side, and used lock nuts. Worked great. 1/4" is the largest that can be used.
15) Reverse the process. Move on with your life.

Be sure to clean the broken glass out of the window guides and seals.

 

[D Hook]

Good for you for getting it fixed so cheap! Anytime you don't have to make a claim, it's a good thing. They'll just ding you for higher rates.

#15 was the best step.

 

[briwayjones]

Well, I didn't even bother with the insurance company. I got the junk yard window, $55. Took me and my old man about 2 hours to replace it. Pretty easy job actually.

Out of curiosity did you clean and re grease the window tracks while you were in there?

 

[pzy3339]

Out of curiosity did you clean and re grease the window tracks while you were in there?

I did not. There did not appear to be anything that required grease. I spent a few months as a mechanic at a used car lot a few years ago. I did quite a few window motor placements. I have never seen the use of any heavy weight grease on any of the parts outside the gearbox of the window motor. I have from time to time used WD-40 or lithium grease to reduce friction between the window and the window guides/seals. I typically lubricate my own vehicles occasionally with a good blast of WD-40 up and down each side of the window guides. The felt seems to hold on to it pretty well and it reduces the load on the motor.

I cannot say for sure this practice has extended the life of the window motor, but none of mine have ever gone bad. Currently, one of my rear windows has worn the felt away in the middle at the top. Because of this when the window closes the last half inch or so it squeaks. It also sticks closed a bit. I have tried WD-40 on this area with poor results. I intend to try some type of chain grease or wax, like for a motorcycle chain, and see if that will stick better. I want to avoid heavy grease to reduce the chance it will get onto someone's clothes.

I cleared the tracks of any broken glass. I did not apply any type of lubricant or use any solvent to clean them. I also did not use any type of glue or sealant when putting the window seals/track back into the door.

I did apply super glue to the bead of sealant that holds the moisture barrier in place to make sure it stayed in place, it was still pretty sticky after I cut it away. The super glue was for good measure.

 

[Boomyal]

Here is the absolutely best and most effective stuff to use on your car window tracks.

http://www.zoro.com/i/G4469132/?utm...hopping_Feed&gclid=CNLlt_n9ysICFYyTfgodVasAwg

 

[briwayjones]

I typically lubricate my own vehicles occasionally with a good blast of WD-40 up and down each side of the window guides. The felt seems to hold on to it pretty well and it reduces the load on the motor.

Be careful, WD-40 will break down rubber over time.

 

[pzy3339]

Here is the absolutely best and most effective stuff to use on your car window tracks.

http://www.zoro.com/i/G4469132/?utm...hopping_Feed&gclid=CNLlt_n9ysICFYyTfgodVasAwg

Never seen that before. I will give it a try!

 

[pzy3339]

Be careful, WD-40 will break down rubber over time.

That figures. Would that be true for anything oil based?

 

[briwayjones]

That figures. Would that be true for anything oil based?

Yup, not good to put anything oil based on rubber. Probably the best thing to use on rubber is silicone based lubricant. Problem is I think silicone tends to get hard over time. I'm not sure if lithium is okay for rubber.

 

[Boomyal]

Yup, not good to put anything oil based on rubber. Probably the best thing to use on rubber is silicone based lubricant. Problem is I think silicone tends to get hard over time. I'm not sure if lithium is okay for rubber.

Lithium is good for many things but it is oil based.