HID Install +Pics - Step by Step

[dieselfreek26]

Question about the Headlamps themselves. Ive done a lot of HIDs in various vehicles, but this is the first time I am dealing with a projector housing. Now, If I just want a brighter light with a white/bluish hue what do you guys suggest? Any off the shelf type bulb? Also if I did want to eventually switch my wifes Ex to HIDs do I need to retrofit anything due to the projector housing?

 

[peterk9]

dieselfreek26, I believe you are referring to the headlamps and not the fog lights so I have moved your post here. Also, for changing or upgrading the bulbs, check out;
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=399658&highlight=bulbs

Peter

 

[LakersCentral]

To remove permaseal, I just noticed that TRS recommends baking the headlights at 285 for 28 minutes (http://youtu.be/anN0vYBj6Uo , at the bottom of the description). this seems hot and long compared to what everyone else here has said/tried... but maybe that's why its been such a PITA for everyone. I trust TRS knows what they are doing, but I really don't want to melt the plastic. So I need someone to try it before I do. thanks

 

[dieselfreek26]

I've baked over 15 sets of lamps for myself and customers, it is a scary process at first, especially knowing you're dealing with $500+ of product. I cannot stand the obnoxiously large amber turn signal upfront. It sticks out like a sore thumb, so I'll probably end up pulling the lenses and spray tinting it, and adding Switchback LEDs for the signals

 

[14ExplorerNC]

Installed my coolbulbs kit a little over a week ago, anyone else experience flickering when the lights first come on? Mine go to a Amber color flicker multiple times then remains the normal 6k color after "warming up".

Anyone else have similar issues?

 

[LakersCentral]

[MENTION=259243]tonystewart[/MENTION] - How did the lens upgrade turn out? I'm actually not quite sure what those do. I bought the Hella EvoX-R (Bi-xenon) from TRS... would a lens upgrade help these?

Also, did the washers you used to aim the drivers headlight in/right work well?

Lastly (well... for now anyway )- does the Morimoto (xb35) bulb sit in the Evox-R projectors without modification (in order to produce same cutoff as stock)? I thought I remembered someone needing to put spacers in to seat them properly.

Thanks again for all the great guides and info you provide! Experience is the greatest teacher.

 

[tonystewart]

Lens Upgrade was hit or miss, better cutoff, more light, I thought it wasn't worth it, cousin said it was, too much labor for not enough improvement, I would have swapped them with new Evo's.
The D3S bulb upgrade was worth it

Yes the washers have improved the centering at distance to the drivers side projector.

A D2S fits in a D2S, whether Osram or Philips or Morimoto, a D2S is a D2S

 

[SENECAII]

Subscribed

 

[LakersCentral]

Thanks [MENTION=259243]tonystewart[/MENTION]

I'm looking for a set of gloves to work with hot headlights (among other things). any recommendations?

p.s. I just reread the post I had referenced regarding the bulb not fitting into the projector. He was trying to put an aftermarket bulb into the stock projector, and the base of the stock bulb was thicker, so it wiggled it a little bit (thread 380190, post 20). Also I have heard the tolerances on TRS products aren't perfect, but maybe they have fixed that by now.

 

[tonystewart]

Any gloves that you're willing to throw away afterwards, permaseal and butyl ruin gloves

TRS tolerances, not an issue with the sets I've done

 

[LakersCentral]

I tried opening the housing without gloves... and ended up banging my knuckles up and cutting my finger. Definitely would recommend anyone doing this to wear some sort of automotive glove, probably ones with knuckle pads would be best. I just bought these highly rated ones for less than $15: http://amzn.to/1r2SlS1 . Mechanix brand are a good bet too. The Permaseal wasn't a gooey mess the way I went about opening my housing, and wouldn't have ruined gloves.

[MENTION=259243]tonystewart[/MENTION] - why did you decide to drill through the bottom of the housing to get the ballast/bulb connection in? I'm in the middle of my retrofit, and wondering if that is a better option than going through the dust cover?

 

[tonystewart]

If the ballast has a straight D2S bulb connector, then by all means.
The only ones I buy have 90 degree connectors, no room through the rear dust cover.
All the ballasts from Morimoto have 90 degree ballast connections.
If using an AMP to D2S adapter , straight D2S connector, buy a minimum of 4. 50% fail after one connection/disconnection sequence. Pure junk!
I am sure the last statement will anger some, but I've sent back over a dozen to "various reputable" suppliers to get free replacements. I have the invoices.
My daughters Toyota GT86 has 2 spares in the trunk, just in case.

 

[JP4962]

Relating to installs... how about removal. Has anyone left their kits on while putting their vehicle in for service or do you put it back to stock?

 

[BoSox13]

tonystewart - How did you connect the power the high beam solenoid? Through the factory connections?

When you adjusted the projectors with washers where you moving the beams inward? Something like the / \

 

[LakersCentral]

Attempting to mount an Apollo 2.0 shroud in my headlight redesign. trimmed the shroud as shallow as possible, and moved the projector bracket as forward as possible (limited by the length of the screws). however, the rim of the projector still sits 1/2" off the shroud. anyone have any suggestions? maybe a few washers would do the trick?

 

[tonystewart]

tonystewart - How did you connect the power the high beam solenoid? Through the factory connections?

When you adjusted the projectors with washers where you moving the beams inward? Something like the / \

High beam works through factory harness

Drivers headlight was shimmed more towards center of road \
Passenger was not needed

 

[tonystewart]

Attempting to mount an Apollo 2.0 shroud in my headlight redesign. trimmed the shroud as shallow as possible, and moved the projector bracket as forward as possible (limited by the length of the screws). however, the rim of the projector still sits 1/2" off the shroud. anyone have any suggestions? maybe a few washers would do the trick?

Why?
Apollos don't follow the styling or "flow" of the styling inside that housing
Please post a photo

 

[LakersCentral]

Why?
Apollos don't follow the styling or "flow" of the styling inside that housing
Please post a photo

what do you mean "why" lol? cause i want to! haha. i like the look of an angel eye behind the apollo2. only photo i have right now is showing the gap between the shroud and the projector.

i cant take any more pics at the moment cause the piece(s) are sitting in bleach to strip the chrome (something that i now realize probably didn't need to be done for the reflectors - the chrome was on there good. it did however need to be done for the shroud - the chrome on that flaked right off even with just painters tape).

 

[tonystewart]

I understand
I'm old, still a form and function kind of person
Good luck
I recently used Apollos 3.0 for a Toyota Tacoma Retrofit

Results vary

 

[LakersCentral]

well you're definitely knowledgeable in the area. why do you feel the apollo2s wouldn't flow or function well?

i'm redesigning a number of things... so you may change your mind when you see the rest. or not idk ha! i'll send you some pics as i get further into it.