How many problems do I have?

[noremarks]

Ok, I need some one's experience before I tear into this. I am a pretty common sense mechanical minded dude. Here is the list of what I know. by the way have only had the Eddie Bauer for just over a week.:exp:

First all fuses are good. The relay for the air conditioning under the hood is good. (swapped out with matching one same numbers and the engine ran again). by the way the relay is engaged. Both the pressure switches show continuity so I assume it is full of coolant and not over full. But even on max and the ETCU set to 60 and max AC there is still NO POWER AT BOTH pressure switch's.

By the way I have done a self test on the ETCU and it did not give out any error codes. So that means all sensors for the climate control are testing good.

The ECTU does work all the different air flows, Defrost, floor, vents, and so on. So does the speed control for the motor - and auto controls the speed with temp changes.

The air is hot all settings except when down at the 60 degree setting, OK sounds like blend door right, but what about the compressor not engaging. is there a over-speed switch or is that read by the computer. is there a sensor on the blend door.

The other thing I may have read about a small relay in the ETCU just needing re-soldering.

What say you, can anyone point me in a direction. Thanks

 

[noremarks]

So just a little update. I did determine that there was no power at either pressure switch. after looking at block diagram. determined that power for the air conditioner circuity is fed from the EATC. so i pulled it, opened it up and found the relay to have a bad solder joint at one of its joints. re-soldered, put it all back together and now have the air working again but now the problem seems to be all hot or all cold. it sure fluctuates alot real hot or real cold. almost like the door is sticking. THINGS THAT MAKE ME GO HMMMM.

 

[bobflood]

So just a little update. I did determine that there was no power at either pressure switch. after looking at block diagram. determined that power for the air conditioner circuity is fed from the EATC. so i pulled it, opened it up and found the relay to have a bad solder joint at one of its joints. re-soldered, put it all back together and now have the air working again but now the problem seems to be all hot or all cold. it sure fluctuates alot real hot or real cold. almost like the door is sticking. THINGS THAT MAKE ME GO HMMMM.

noremarks: I appear to have a similar problem. Can you provide a little more detail as to where this relay is, how you identify it, etc??

 

[noremarks]

noremarks: I appear to have a similar problem. Can you provide a little more detail as to where this relay is, how you identify it, etc??

If you have a Electronic Automatic Temperature Control, the relay is located on the electronics board of the control head. (the unit that turns up and down the heat and controls where the air comes out) That is all one unit, that should comes out pretty easy. carefully disassemble down to the board mine only had one realy, (a black large plastic box soldered on to the board). there might be a solder joint on the bottom of the board that may look burnt or dull to the eyes. If you take a magnifying glass to the dull joint you should see that it no longer makes contact. I took and re-soldered the pin, (careful not to much heat). and was back in business again.

 

[noremarks]

Hot then Cold. in auto mode could that be a broken door

OK so now I have the air conditioning fixed, when running auto the air is hot for two or so minutes then Cold for two minutes or so. Seems like everything with an bad door says that the air is only hot. why would it change if the air mix door was broken by the way air conditioning on max stays cold... any ideas. Thanks

 

[bobflood]

If you have a Electronic Automatic Temperature Control, the relay is located on the electronics board of the control head. (the unit that turns up and down the heat and controls where the air comes out) That is all one unit, that should comes out pretty easy. carefully disassemble down to the board mine only had one realy, (a black large plastic box soldered on to the board). there might be a solder joint on the bottom of the board that may look burnt or dull to the eyes. If you take a magnifying glass to the dull joint you should see that it no longer makes contact. I took and re-soldered the pin, (careful not to much heat). and was back in business again.

Wow - thanks!! That was exactly the problem. Took it apart, found the relay, one joint looked funky. I resoldered it -looks even worse now, but works like a charm. Temp control appears to be working normally.

Also learned an electrical troubleshooting caution - seeing the right voltage ain't enough!! Voltage looked fine on meter, but circuit didn't work. When I replaced DVM with test light, it did not light up - not enough current!! That mistake cost me a couple of hours of wasted troubleshooting time chasing what turned out to be a spurious voltage!!

 

[noremarks]

So Just a final word. I did have two problems first the compressor circuit was bad at the control head just re-soldered the relay pin that feeds to the pressure switches. Then I had a working air conditioner. Knew that when I switched the unit on to max ac. Seems to negate the blend door. Then after looking at the pic's and threads on replacing the blend door I did the same. I did find a brand new one at Napa for about 13.00. it was a full kit. thew the rest away and used the door only and followed directions to access thew the bottom of unit. then epoxied back with black epoxy Thanks to all the dudes who have a brain and some common sense. Ya'll ROCK!