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Ford Explorer Community - Maintenance - Modifications - Performance Upgrades - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street
Explorer Forum Covers the Explorer ST, Explorer Sport, Explorer Sport Trac, Lincoln Aviator, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Ford Aerostar
I don't know how old this thread is and hopefully I can get some good ideas and help. . . ...
so i have a 2001 explorer. SOHC v6, 2 wheel drive. I have been fighting my brother on how to do the swap. I found this thread, and wow I love it. So I noticed it was done on mostly 4 wheel drive and older rangers and explorers. What would I have to do different?
I don't know how old this thread is and hopefully I can get some good ideas and help. . . ...
so i have a 2001 explorer. SOHC v6, 2 wheel drive. I have been fighting my brother on how to do the swap. I found this thread, and wow I love it. So I noticed it was done on mostly 4 wheel drive and older rangers and explorers. What would I have to do different?
It is basicly the process, you would need to add a transfer case and 4wd transmission if the transmission was not setup with a dummy 2wd transfer case. I am not sure how your model is setup
Hi All... I had to sign up for an account just to ask a question regarding this swap...been looking all over for info and can't find the answer.
I'm planning to buy a ranger very soon and want to do this bolt on sas ,since my welding skills are 0.
Can this method be used on later generations after 97, and if not...why?
The reason I ask is because if I were looking to use new parts from jamesduff, they list everything being for 88-97 Rangers, so I'm wondering what the problem is with 98 or newer models.
I believe the Rangers went to the IRS type front suspension in 1998, which is completely different than the TTB suspension of previous models. I do not think the kit would fit. Call Duff, they are very good with customer service and should be able to answer all of your questions.
Yep, IFS makes is a whole new ball game. You can still hack off all the IFS stuff and install a Solid Axle. The main issues I would think are the giant crossmember that goes under the engine for the IFS and the rack and pinion steering that would require adaptation to a regular steering box.
So on my 97 Mounty, the motor cross member was removed and in place of the rack and pinion I have a Toyota steering box. Full width axles may make some different compared to the EB axles though.
Yep, IFS makes is a whole new ball game. You can still hack off all the IFS stuff and install a Solid Axle. The main issues I would think are the giant crossmember that goes under the engine for the IFS and the rack and pinion steering that would require adaptation to a regular steering box.
Thanks for the help guys, definitely pointing me in the right direction. I already have a bunch more questions but will keep on reading everything around before I come back.
I found 2 98+ rangers in my apartment parkade I was able to crawl under and get a better idea...I've only been able to see photos online of the TTB front end but I can tell its quite the difference.
Maybe 1 question to hold me over....is the frame the exact same apart from the engine crossmember? I guess what I'm saying here is side by side...TTB and IFS, everything in the front end removed, IFS crossmember cut-off....are the frames the same at this point?
Thanks for the help guys, definitely pointing me in the right direction. I already have a bunch more questions but will keep on reading everything around before I come back.
I found 2 98+ rangers in my apartment parkade I was able to crawl under and get a better idea...I've only been able to see photos online of the TTB front end but I can tell its quite the difference.
Maybe 1 question to hold me over....is the frame the exact same apart from the engine crossmember? I guess what I'm saying here is side by side...TTB and IFS, everything in the front end removed, IFS crossmember cut-off....are the frames the same at this point?
C Channel vs closed box, assuming this is exactly why the "Bolt-On" parts wont work....obviously you can get a wrench in the C-channel but you'd have to bolt right through the box frame...
well ****...my mechanical capabilities are pretty good, which is why I am gunning for the bolt-on style....I don't know how to weld...and the 98+ seem like there's a lot of fab work to do a swap.
I guess I have to decide what I really want now....A newer model would have to be taken to a shop for the swap and I would pay upwards of 10K I'm sure...
An older model I could do myself, would cost 10x less...but I miss out on the interior aesthetics of the new models...