How To: Replacing Front Hub / Bearing 1995+ Ford Explorer IFS

[perth]

hub assembly

That creaking sound is hard to find ive got used to it,doesnt seem to have any affect on the way the ex drives,if you find anyway to get rid of any squeaks and rattles let me know,cheers.

 

[KingTriEye]

I may have missed it but is it pretty much the same method for the 2000 with a V8 and AWD? The ABS sensors are starting to go and it's making a slight noise so I'm planning on replacing both after christmas

 

[Danhrph]

I may have missed it but is it pretty much the same method for the 2000 with a V8 and AWD? The ABS sensors are starting to go and it's making a slight noise so I'm planning on replacing both after christmas

Should be. Mine's a 98 5.0l AWD

 

[FlyBoyCoe]

I may have missed it but is it pretty much the same method for the 2000 with a V8 and AWD? The ABS sensors are starting to go and it's making a slight noise so I'm planning on replacing both after christmas

Yup. Worked great on my 2000 V8 former-AWD (before BW4406 swap). I changed the hubs due some grinding sounds, but I also had the ABS light on for several months now. During the hub swap I found the old passenger side sensor wires were frayed. New hubs = no more ABS light!

 

[gavin]

this is for ALL 2nd gen 4wd and the AWD V8.

 

[KingTriEye]

So i know this is probably a stupid question, but was there a difference between the 4WD and AWD model wheel bearing? I went to AutoZone and they for some reason have zero parts available for the AWD 2000 mountaineer. But if they search for the 2000 4X4 with the V8 all these parts show up. My other concern is didn't they not have a 4X4 option with a V8 in 2000? I thought they were all AWD with that engine.

 

[gavin]

they use the same part. Suspension and axles are exactly the same between the 4.0's w/4x4 and 5.0's w/AWD (well, except the 5.0 rear axles have a traction bar mount, and early 4.0 2nd gens had a vacuum disconnect front axle I believe, neither of which effect the wheel hub/bearing unit).

There was no 4x4 option with the V8's, only 2WD or AWD.

 

[Fredness]

Same procedure works on an '05 Sport Trac.
PepBoys, $210 - had to drive 35 miles to get it, no other stores had them.
SRF part, looks good, new clips on the anti-lock brake line and all. Wish they packed a spindle nut with it, no one had one of those eaither. Reused the stock one, but I'm ordering one from Ford.

Just did the driver side today - 3 hours, but it was 28* and I had to take frequent breaks due to cold hands. My hub was rusted to the spindle - took a dozen wacks with a 5lb mallet, but it came loose. Thanks!

 

[bullnerd]

It took me longer to mess with all the little clips holding the anti lock wire on the first side then to replace the bearing.On the other side i just un bolted the sensor and bolted it into the new bearing,leaving the old wire ,no problems so far.

 

[gavin]

It took me longer to mess with all the little clips holding the anti lock wire on the first side then to replace the bearing.On the other side i just un bolted the sensor and bolted it into the new bearing,leaving the old wire ,no problems so far.

I just take a small flat-head screwdriver and pry the clips apart.
Quicker for me than digging around my toolbox looking for the correct size allen wrench :

 

[kdbstl]

" But, you should think about how much anti-seize that you use before you apply it."


I went with the anti seize when I replaced the passenger hub yesterday. I replaced the drive axle on both sides and new rotors and pads but kept grease on the splines and replaced gear lube. The driver side hub was done by a shop a month or so ago. Now there is a constant squeel on the pass side but stops when I hit the brakes. Would anti-seize be the culprit and making the assembly out of whack or could the rotor be rubbing somewhere. Thanks

 

[gavin]

" But, you should think about how much anti-seize that you use before you apply it."


I went with the anti seize when I replaced the passenger hub yesterday. I replaced the drive axle on both sides and new rotors and pads but kept grease on the splines and replaced gear lube. The driver side hub was done by a shop a month or so ago. Now there is a constant squeel on the pass side but stops when I hit the brakes. Would anti-seize be the culprit and making the assembly out of whack or could the rotor be rubbing somewhere. Thanks

you mean the squeaking stops when you apply the brakes, not necessarily when you've come to a stop?

 

[TheJackal]

sounds like the issue I've got right now with one of the rear brakes--constant squealing/grinding that stops as soon as you hit the brake. I think it is the brake because I had a shop look at the driver's front brake when it was doing the same thing a year ago. They took the caliper off and said everything looked good, and it never did it again since.

 

[kdbstl]

It's hitting in one spot because it picks up with speed. Not a brake squeeling but a wah,wah,etc. I'll take it apart later to see but wanted to know if anyone else had this problem before when replacing.

 

[mreaglewo1]

when replacing the front bearing parts... I have searched online, i seen replacing the hub or replacing the bearing it self... what is do you reccommend....

 

[gavin]

when replacing the front bearing parts... I have searched online, i seen replacing the hub or replacing the bearing it self... what is do you reccommend....

2WD = bearings and (possibly) races
4WD = hub/bearing assemblies

 

[mreaglewo1]

okay, so i have a 95 explorer 2dr 4x4 i should replace the hub assembly....i found a new one at a local parts store/distributor $106 +tax...

is there any "special" tools needed to do this. About how long does it take to replace it on average?

Thanks

 

[gavin]

okay, so i have a 95 explorer 2dr 4x4 i should replace the hub assembly....i found a new one at a local parts store/distributor $106 +tax...

is there any "special" tools needed to do this. About how long does it take to replace it on average?

Thanks

read the thread.
this whole thread is about replacing hub/bearing assembly.

there's no need for the info to be repeated multiple times.

 

[KingTriEye]

Honestly it only took me about an hour an a half. Once you do one side the other is a piece of cake. Just make sure you have everything you'll need to get it done so you don't have to keep running back and fourth for tools.

 

[ed95]

Question

I am new at this and in the middle of doing this for my 95 XLT on the driver's side. On the wheel end of the CV half shaft is what's left of a shaft seal that you don't mention renewing while you are doing the job. I already have the half shaft out, but the seal that I got from Advance doesn't appear to be the right application. Any help would be much appreciated.