i need a supercharging plan..

[lifted4.0]

2003 ford ranger 4.0 sohc blown with rons kit eaton m90.

yaa, im wondering if i can do this...do both wires off the IAT go to both wires on the MAF?? or is one a ground??


can i go

green to F, black to E

OR!

black to F, green to E

does it matter which one

 

[lifted4.0]

http://www.justanswer.com/uploads/kennyz1963/2008-08-25_205504_maf.pdf figure C128 i think

does that help me in any way??

 

[turboexplorer]

looks like it tells you all you need to know between the two C128-C129. Does you current IAT have the same color wires as the OEM one?

 

[lifted4.0]

noo mine has 1 green, 1 black.

 

[awdrocks]

http://www.justanswer.com/uploads/kennyz1963/2008-08-25_205504_maf.pdf figure C128 i think

does that help me in any way??

Yep just match up the circuits on C128 and C129

 

[lifted4.0]

but i dont know if the green wire on my IAT is the return signal or the imput....and vise versa, i dont know if the black wire on my sensor is the return signal or the imput

 

[CDW6212R]

Where are the original vehicle IAT wires and IAT connector? Find those two wires which exist on all vehicles. Compare those two IAT wires to the connector of the donor engine. They may be the same, or otherwise easily diagnosed. Regards,

 

[lifted4.0]

dont know where you were going with that...

all i need to know now is do i connect the

green IAT wire to the grey one i just cut on the MAF or the grey/red one i just cut on the MAF

and do i connect the black IAT wire to the grey one i just cut on the MAF or the grey/red one i just cut on the MAF OR IS THE BLACK A GROUND!!??

 

[CDW6212R]

There are two IAT wires on your truck already, why do you keep talking about the MAF wires? It does not matter if any of them are the same. Why not use the existing IAT wires from the truck? Find those two OEM IAT wires, then figure out which is which to connect to the new IAT location. That's why I posted, it seems like everyone assumes that the two factory IAT wires have been cut off and are gone. Where are the two original IAT wires on the vehicle?

 

[lifted4.0]

well in the manual it says that the 4.0 does not use a IAT sensor..so i dont know what to tell you there, all i can find is that the outer two wires on the MAF are for the IAT connection

 

[Jakee]

Yes the IAT is part of the MAF. So in order to run a different IAT sensor (After the charger) you'll need to splice.

The gray wire is the reference voltage for the IAT and the gray and red wire is the signal return wire for the IAT. This means you need to connect the GREEN IAT wire to the GRAY MAF wire, and the BLACK IAT wire to the GRAY-RED MAF wire. Actually, polarity doesn't matter as far as I can tell.

Ron - Please correct me if I'm wrong here; I believe you know this better than anyone.

The rough idle problem you're having is 99% not related to this issue. The reason you want to change the IAT sensor after the charger is so you can get a direct measurement of the air temp going into the cylinders for you're upcoming tuning session. The charger heats the air up so that is why the stock MAF IAT version is not good for you. But again, this is not your rough idle problem.

Get the IAT on there after the charger.
Change the plugs.
Clean the MAF.
Get it tuned.

 

[turboexplorer]

Get the IAT on there after the charger.
Change the plugs.
Clean the MAF.
Get it tuned.

I agree and from anything I have been able to find on it do as Jakee says as far as which wires are which. From anything that I can find that looks like thats exactly what you need to do.

 

[lifted4.0]

alright, soo im gonna follow post 91 tommorow at about 1 when i get outta school, then go back to school see if the CEL comes back on..yadda yadda, and then clean MAF, plugs...and then get it tuned, and ill get back to you all with some numbers!!! and some AF ratio stuff, unlesss the wiring doesnt work, then ill be back tommorow!!!

 

[CmdrPopNFresh]

hooooly......money, batman. i wish i had that kind of cash for my high school projects.....best i ever did was powerpoint projects. hahaha! lets see some pictures when you get going

 

[Jakee]

i see 21 at idle, but it idles rough and feels like its almost gonna shut off...

should i try to bolt up the GT MAF that came with my kit..i didnt put that on because it didnt bolt right up to the air filter plate thing....should i just drill new holes and try to seal that with some silicone or something?? that would be a step in the right direction right??

and then still trying to figure out this IAT sensor would be great...


but anyone else, i JUST PMed JAKE and asked him...

"just general question here, do you know what LPH the stock ranger fuel pump is, and like how much of the stock 24# injectors are being used??

cause i have a CEL light on after the supercharger went on and both banks O2 are running lean, and im thinking about going to get it tuned and having them just dump fuel into it (switching out the engine in the spring...soo gas price doesnt really matter at this point, i just dont wannt the engine to blow!!)

is that a good idea? i think i might have the fix to the lean condition, but is that a plausible approach?? and how much more fuel do you think the stock stuff can provide

thanks man for the advice"

what are you alls thoughts on that?!

My thoughts…


After you do all the suggestions, let us know if it still idles weird. Another thought is to make sure all the coil wires are connected right. With a stock MAF and injectors, it needs to idle right before trying to tune it. In other words, if you change the plugs, clean the MAF, connect the IAT sensor (Make sure you disconnect the battery when doing this), verify the wires to the coil are connected okay, verify you don’t have a burned plug wire from installing the headers, and it still idles weird after letting it sit idling for a few minutes, then I’d almost bet there is a vacuum leak that you’re not able to locate – just like the others have said. The only reason I don’t think this now is because your vacuum is @ 21

I don't know what the stock pump flows. You may have to do a fuel pump upgrade and the tuning session will tell you this. I changed the pump out before the injectors and it made a world of difference. Not power wise but keeping it from going lean up top. The 24LB injectors should hold you for awhile.

No, just dumping fuel in it isn't the right approach and you actually can't do that if the pump is running out of steam. Dumping too much fuel in it can cause the same problems you’ll see with running lean.

 

[lifted4.0]

connected the wires that jakee said to connect and 12 miles in, the CEL came back on....UGGHHH

 

[Jakee]

Okay, this is troubleshooting and you have to go thru step by step.

I'm with Ron, there must be a vacuum leak somewhere.

-- Bank 1 = DTCs P0171 (lean) and P0172 (rich)

-- Bank 2 = DTCs P0174 (lean) and P0175 (rich)

Check intake air system for leaks, obstructions and damage.

Check air cleaner element, air cleaner housing for blockage.

Verify integrity of the PCV system.

Check for vacuum leaks.


Did you lay a staight edge on the manifold before installing? I think I said this on one of the messages I sent you awhile back.

 

[lifted4.0]

alright, tommorow im gonna clean the MAF and try to get all the plugs out..im trying to do all the small stuff before i have to take the thing off searching for leaks..cause its cold up here, if i had a heated space i would do that quickly..

 

[Jakee]

alright, tommorow im gonna clean the MAF and try to get all the plugs out..im trying to do all the small stuff before i have to take the thing off searching for leaks..cause its cold up here, if i had a heated space i would do that quickly..

Easy things first and that's how you should go about troubleshooting.

Here's more to try...One at a time

A lean fuel condition can be caused by:

- Low fuel pressure due to a weak pump or leaky fuel pressure regulator. (Use a fuel pressure gauge to check fuel pressure at idle)

- Dirty fuel injectors. (Try cleaning the injectors)

- Vacuum leaks

At the intake manifold, vacuum hose connections or throttle body. (Use a vacuum gauge to check for low intake vacuum)

- Leaky EGR valve. (Check operation of EGR valve)

- Leaky PCV Valve or hose. (Check valve and hose connections)

- Dirty or defective Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF). (Try cleaning the MAF sensor wires or filament with aerosol electronics cleaner. Do NOT use anything else to clean the sensor, and do not touch the sensor wires)

 

[Jakee]

Easy things first and that's how you should go about troubleshooting.

Here's more to try...One at a time

A lean fuel condition can be caused by:

- Low fuel pressure due to a weak pump or leaky fuel pressure regulator. (Use a fuel pressure gauge to check fuel pressure at idle)

- Dirty fuel injectors. (Try cleaning the injectors)

- Vacuum leaks

At the intake manifold, vacuum hose connections or throttle body. (Use a vacuum gauge to check for low intake vacuum)

- Leaky EGR valve. (Check operation of EGR valve)

- Leaky PCV Valve or hose. (Check valve and hose connections)

- Dirty or defective Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF). (Try cleaning the MAF sensor wires or filament with aerosol electronics cleaner. Do NOT use anything else to clean the sensor, and do not touch the sensor wires)

Cross them out if it didn't help. The one after the last you crossed out will be your problem?