How to: Ignition Lock broken, How to fix lock to use original keys

[Turdle]

I wonder if Rock Auto sells this kit? I know that it wasn't an option since it will take a week for it to come in the mail. I'm just wondering about the price difference.

One time I tried to repair an expensive padlock, and the pins & springs shot all over the place. This was the last time that I've attempted to open a lock cylinder. The basic concept isn't hard, it's just that there are many different length pins that have to be matched to the key. These parts are very small, and hard to grab. Did you take a picture of the process of setting up the pins with the springs?

I did not.

There are 7 tumblers and springs you have to place, 4 on top 3 on bottom. The spring goes into a round slot, and the tumbler slides down to "lock" into position. The even coded slots are on the top, odds on the bottom. Code slot 1 is ignored.

Then once you slide it all together a spring is dropped into another hole, and the ball is placed onto it. Place the lock tab back on the spring, give the cylinder a twist and the detent ball seats. The instructions say to twist clockwise, but you have to go counterclockwise when seating the ball. There were extra springs and an extra ball in the kit for fumbles.

 

[NICE59FORDF100]

Glad you got it working bud! Is it installed in the truck now? How does it feel?

 

[Turdle]

Glad you got it working bud! Is it installed in the truck now? How does it feel?

It seems just fine. Back to normal--

 

[albi1cnobi1]

I wonder if Rock Auto sells this kit? I know that it wasn't an option since it will take a week for it to come in the mail. I'm just wondering about the price difference.

One time I tried to repair an expensive padlock, and the pins & springs shot all over the place. This was the last time that I've attempted to open a lock cylinder. The basic concept isn't hard, it's just that there are many different length pins that have to be matched to the key. These parts are very small, and hard to grab. Did you take a picture of the process of setting up the pins with the springs?

Rockauto has the genuine Motorcraft part, same exact part number for $54.79. I know it wasn't an option for turdle, but just in case anyone else may need one.

 

[CDW6212R]

I'm glad that you got it figured out Jon. I learned about most of that when I paid a locksmith $40 to come to me and "rebuild" two cylinders. I bought a new door cylinder and a used 95-97 hatch cylinder, and then paid to have them built to work with the keys I had.

I forgot how the cylinders were opened up to get to the tumblers etc.

Good work.

 

[Bucco63]

In 3rd picture from Turdle in this other thread, what is blue plastic piece?

I took my ignition out and there was a small blue plastic piece inside the chamber. Is this piece broken and the cause my car won't completely turn off and drains the battery? Parts stores all tell me dealer has to do repair.

Radio and dash lights stay on even when key is out. I can put in gear without car on as we'll.

 

[Turdle]

In 3rd picture from Turdle in this other thread, what is blue plastic piece?

I took my ignition out and there was a small blue plastic piece inside the chamber. Is this piece broken and the cause my car won't completely turn off and drains the battery? Parts stores all tell me dealer has to do repair.

Radio and dash lights stay on even when key is out. I can put in gear without car on as we'll.

The blue piece is part of the PATS,

I bet the ignition switch is bad.

 

[MetricMuscle]

Sorry for the old thread revival but this one seemed to cover the process best.

My ignition switch lock cylinder functions as it should except for a couple of issues. The cylinder is very loosy goosy, lots of play in the rotation and the key can be removed in any position. The cylinder will not turn from the lock position without the key inserted.

What keeps the lock cylinder tight? I have 2 newer keys which came with the truck when I bought it and I'd prefer not to have to mess with the PATS if possible. I do need to verify if the keys operate the door and lift gate locks. Any other keyed locks hiding on this 2001 EB Explorer?

 

[Turdle]

Sorry for the old thread revival but this one seemed to cover the process best.

My ignition switch lock cylinder functions as it should except for a couple of issues. The cylinder is very loosy goosy, lots of play in the rotation and the key can be removed in any position. The cylinder will not turn from the lock position without the key inserted.

What keeps the lock cylinder tight? I have 2 newer keys which came with the truck when I bought it and I'd prefer not to have to mess with the PATS if possible. I do need to verify if the keys operate the door and lift gate locks. Any other keyed locks hiding on this 2001 EB Explorer?

All of the workings for the ignition lock are inside the lock, so, I think yours has developed a defect.

 

[koda2000]

I think you can purchase a new key lock and take it to a locksmith to have him modify it to fit your old keys. Alternatively you can remove the chips from your old keys and swap them into the new keys.

 

[CDW6212R]

I just bought two new ignition key cylinders from Ford, they run about $70 or so now.

I suggest replacing the cylinder very soon if it ever acts up. It's hell to try to get one out if the tumblers fall or fail etc. It's easy now when it works right, you just have to remove the plastic trim around the column. Standard and other brands are available, and any lock smith can make the tumblers work for an old key. I think the Ford kits came with new tumblers, which means I can do it myself.

 

[MetricMuscle]

So I should only be able to remove the key when in the off lock position?

How difficult is it to move the coded chips from one key to another?

 

[CDW6212R]

Yes, and I don't know how tough it is to R&R the chip. You do need another key cylinder, I'd get a new one and not an unknown used one.

 

[koda2000]

So I should only be able to remove the key when in the off lock position?

How difficult is it to move the coded chips from one key to another?

Personally I've never done it, but if you look at the plastic head on the key, you should be able to see a small rectangle where the chip is inserted into one if the corners. It should be pretty easy to extract the chip with something like a mini screw driver. Then just put it into the new key.

Note: If you go this route, you'll end up with 2 keys. One for the door locks and one for the ignition. Better way to go (but it will cost you a little money) would be to have a locksmith make the new lock worth with the old key.

 

[Turdle]

if you buy the new ignition lock you can key it yourself , to make your existing keys work, following the instructions in the box. Use a micrometer to measure the teeth on your key and use the corresponding tumbler. It was a little difficult but not too bad . Part number and pictures are earlier in this thread.

 

[MetricMuscle]

Sounds easy enough to R&R the lock cylinder.

Upon further review of how erything works in the column, I think I must have an excessive amount of slop between the cylinder and the actual electrical switch. Since I can still turn the key and get to each position I'm thinking the slot on the actuator rod may be wollered out or the tip of the cylinder has too much play, allowing for too much back and forth twisting movement of the cylinder.

The key being able to be removed in any position is another issue. Anybody know what actually holds the key in the cylinder in all positions except for OFF/LOCK?

 

[CDW6212R]

Your key cylinder is toast, replace it very soon. My old 72 Gran Torino did that, and after a few months the key wouldn't go in, a tumblers got jumbled. I had to break it to finally get it out, and was lucky not to damage the column which the cylinder goes into.

 

[MetricMuscle]

So, is this the part I need?

View attachment 150450

 

[MetricMuscle]

Well this MotorCraft kit did the trick, everything is all nice and factory snug. The one I removed was missing 1 tumbler and the design of the outer body is different than the new one. The new one has 2 tumbler slots, the old is smooth on the inside, no slots, not sure what the tumblers even locked into.

I also replaced the shifter bushings, front shocks and sway bar bushings with Energy Suspension. Feels like a whole new ride.

 

[CDW6212R]

Well this MotorCraft kit did the trick, everything is all nice and factory snug. The one I removed was missing 1 tumbler and the design of the outer body is different than the new one. The new one has 2 tumbler slots, the old is smooth on the inside, no slots, not sure what the tumblers even locked into.

I also replaced the shifter bushings, front shocks and sway bar bushings with Energy Suspension. Feels like a whole new ride.

Well done, now those parts won't need any attention for another 10-20 years.