Installing TM Headers, Running into Some Problems

[duke16]

Well one crisis averted, I got the double threaded bolt thingy off with the air gun. The threads look fine too, so that's good. But I still can't get the tube to line up correctly.

Here's a picture of the tube, unfortunately it isn't really bendable. I'll probably work on it for an hour or so more and then give Bob a call, see what he thinks.

 

[MountaineerGreen]

If you are still wondering if the fitting has different threads- it does. The left hand side is a flare type fitting that screws into the tube. The right hand side goes into the header. What I would try is this-

Start the fitting in the end of the tube, but don't tighten it.
Start the other end of the tube into your EGR, but don't tighten it.
While everything is still loose, try to start the double ended fitting in the header.
If you can get all three started, then tighten the fitting into the header.
Then tighten the tube to the EGR
Then tighten the nut on the double ended fitting.

By doing this you pull everything together using the threads of the fittings. This is how I ended up putting my EGR tube on, but it was a flexible ford piece.

 

[410Fortune]

Dude go to Ford and get a new EGR it comes straight and is bendy like, it worked fine on my 97.5 5.0L with the TM headers....Ford had it in stock was like $23

 

[Turdle]

Yeah
Something about those bend angles doesn't look right.

 

[MountaineerGreen]

Bob told me a few months ago Ford had discontinued the flexible tube and now makes a rigid tube. That is why Bob made his own EGR tube available.

 

[Turdle]

Bob told me a few months ago Ford had discontinued the flexible tube and now makes a rigid tube. That is why Bob made his own EGR tube available.

I know they were on backorder in june of 2005, for this reason supposedly, but the one I finally recieved was flexible.

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

I have a flexible tube on my truck, and had a hard time bending it into shape. I was able to get it to work, but it took a lot of effort.

After working with the flex tube, that rigid tube seems like it would be nearly impossible to bend without it cracking open.

Definitely call Bob!!! He's great to talk to for support and will totally help you out however he can!

 

[rcpasq]

duke16,

You need to take your time and relax. The modified EGR tube was modified to fit your Headers precisely. I bolted your RS (passenger side) Header to our engine in the shop, put in the connector fitting and installed the tube before it was sent to you.

What you need to keep in mind is the rounded end of the connector fitting goes into EGR tube and the more angular end screws into the Header. Tighten the fitting into the Header first. Then screw the EGR tube on-to the fitting allowing the tube to move (in other words: Don't tighten it just yet). Now screw the other end of the EGR tube into the EGR valve on the intake, keeping in mind the EGR tube enters the EGR valve recepticle at about 30 degree angle. FYI, Ford used 22mm x 1.5 threads on the EGR setup.

If that doesn't work, then you will need to remove the EGR valve from the back of the intake and inspect the threads and see where you're at.

Bob Pasquale
Tech Performance & Engineering
Torque Monster Headers

 

[duke16]

Here's a picture. The tube goes a little to far back. I've tried forcing it, but I'm a little scared to force it much in case I break it.

 

[Turdle]

You should be close enough to bend it into shape.
Just take it out and use a vice for leverage, if you have one.
The pipe will bend a bit before it crimps, just take it slowly

 

[rcpasq]

Then install the rear first with a few threads, correctly (without cross-threading). Then you can have some flexibility with front. You can also loosen the Header, put the front on and use the Header to flex it in place.

 

[duke16]

Finally got it on. Took some careful coaxing. Haven't managed to tighten the bolt that connects to the EGR all the way, it has a little more to go, but I think the threads may be a little bent. I'll try again later in the week.

On the driver side, did anyone run into any trouble with the down-pipe bolts not tightening at all after a certain point? I understand the bolts themselves are tapered, but I had no trouble doing the passenger side. I may have to go out and get a tap and die set, because not even my airgun can screw them in past a certain point.

 

[410Fortune]

using an air gun to tighten a bolt that is cross threading or not going into the flange properly to try and force it is just asking for more trouble and is the last tool on earth you should be using....

 

[MountaineerGreen]

I used a 1/2" drive breakover bar to put mine in, they were very tight and hard to put in. The last few turns, it was all I could do to turn it.

 

[410Fortune]

yeah do it by hand to finish them, 1/2" drive is plenty...no leaks. The key to the flanges IMO is to start both sides, all 4 bolts, make sure the trans mount is in place so you get correct positioning of both down pipes, then work slowly on all 4 bolts from one side to the next, checking to make sure you have the ball part of the header seated evenly into the accepting flange on the pipe, you want them centered as much as possible.......

 

[rcpasq]

The bolts used to connect the downpipes are purchased from Ford parts. They are tapered/jam fit from Ford. It may be wise to run a tap down those threads for ease of installation. The threads are (12mm x 1.75). These are the exact bolts Ford has put into all the Explorer/Mountaineer 5.0 V8 manifolds.